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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-22-2011, 04:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I've been defeated!

So today I set out to replace my lower control arm bushings on the passenger side of my '93. Should be an easy task, take off the tire, undo 1 bolt on the stabilizer bar, 1 bolt and 2 nuts on the steering knuckle, 2 bolts on the engine cradle, 1 bolt on the end, take control arm to have new bushing pressed in, and re-install. Figured it'd take me 2 hours max to do. Well, everything was going well until I got to the 3 bolts that hold the arm to the cradle. I spent 6 hours trying to get those damn bolts off to no avail. I used a cheater bar, an pneumatic impact wrench, a whole can of liquid wrench, a hammer and box-end wrench, and even tried using a torch to loosen the bolts. Nothing worked. So I ended up having to just put her all back together and admit defeat. So frustrating. Anyone know of anything else I could try to do to get the bolts off?

Also, something cool did happen though; while I was working on the Camry a Google street view camera car drove past. So, soon you'll be able to look me up on street view working on my Camry.

Last edited by CBZED101; 03-22-2011 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ken's Off the Top of His Head Tips:
Heat the material that the bolt is going through, NOT the bolt itself.
PB Blaster. That's the only penetrating oil you should have for jobs like this.
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Heat and brute force!!!

Did you break anything? Sockets, ratchet, breaker bar? If no, then apply more heat and more torque. Use only quality 6 point sockets and keep fingers out of danger from being smashed, but honestly this sounds like you need both feet on a bar!

The 1MZ harmonic balancer bolt comes to mind. Split a socket open and cracked the 1/2" drive breaker bar drive (where the socket attaches), but in short it has factory loctite and its tite! Get mean with it!!!
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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When I did mine, I used a 3 foot long pipe on my breaker bar, and I had to brace my feet somewhere to get my back into it. They let loose with a "CRACK!!!" And mine isn't very rusty compared to some of the pics I see posted. Gotta love the high desert climate here (no humidity).
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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So far I didn't break anything other than a 19mm 6 point impact socket. Stripped it out almost completely. Didn't think it was possible. o.O I didn't have much room to fit a breaker bar on the 2 bolts on the engine cradle. I'll have to try again on my next day off...probably next Tuesday.
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Put everything back with anti-seize grease too just incase you have to take all of this stuff apart in the future.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Putting both feet on a bar is dangerous - use leverage, torque = radius * angle, so a longer pipe is the way to go.

You'll get it with the pneumatic, just make sure your compressor should have a minimum of 5 scfm at 90psi and you should use either 3/8" or 1/2" air hose (less pressure drop). Check your pressure at your tool using a tee and pressure gauge to make sure there are no restrictions.

There are Ingersoll Rand 1/2" penumatic impact wrenches rated at 1100 ft-lbs for nut busting torque available for around $200. Harbor Freight also sells pneumatic impact wrenches that should be able to break 800 ft-lbs for less. Both are twin hammer designs and should be able to remove these with ease now that you have soaked penetrating oil for a few days,

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