3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
So today I set out to replace my lower control arm bushings on the passenger side of my '93. Should be an easy task, take off the tire, undo 1 bolt on the stabilizer bar, 1 bolt and 2 nuts on the steering knuckle, 2 bolts on the engine cradle, 1 bolt on the end, take control arm to have new bushing pressed in, and re-install. Figured it'd take me 2 hours max to do. Well, everything was going well until I got to the 3 bolts that hold the arm to the cradle. I spent 6 hours trying to get those damn bolts off to no avail. I used a cheater bar, an pneumatic impact wrench, a whole can of liquid wrench, a hammer and box-end wrench, and even tried using a torch to loosen the bolts. Nothing worked. So I ended up having to just put her all back together and admit defeat. So frustrating. Anyone know of anything else I could try to do to get the bolts off?
Also, something cool did happen though; while I was working on the Camry a Google street view camera car drove past. So, soon you'll be able to look me up on street view working on my Camry.
Ken's Off the Top of His Head Tips:
Heat the material that the bolt is going through, NOT the bolt itself.
PB Blaster. That's the only penetrating oil you should have for jobs like this.
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
Did you break anything? Sockets, ratchet, breaker bar? If no, then apply more heat and more torque. Use only quality 6 point sockets and keep fingers out of danger from being smashed, but honestly this sounds like you need both feet on a bar!
The 1MZ harmonic balancer bolt comes to mind. Split a socket open and cracked the 1/2" drive breaker bar drive (where the socket attaches), but in short it has factory loctite and its tite! Get mean with it!!!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
When I did mine, I used a 3 foot long pipe on my breaker bar, and I had to brace my feet somewhere to get my back into it. They let loose with a "CRACK!!!" And mine isn't very rusty compared to some of the pics I see posted. Gotta love the high desert climate here (no humidity).
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
So far I didn't break anything other than a 19mm 6 point impact socket. Stripped it out almost completely. Didn't think it was possible. o.O I didn't have much room to fit a breaker bar on the 2 bolts on the engine cradle. I'll have to try again on my next day off...probably next Tuesday.
Putting both feet on a bar is dangerous - use leverage, torque = radius * angle, so a longer pipe is the way to go.
You'll get it with the pneumatic, just make sure your compressor should have a minimum of 5 scfm at 90psi and you should use either 3/8" or 1/2" air hose (less pressure drop). Check your pressure at your tool using a tee and pressure gauge to make sure there are no restrictions.
There are Ingersoll Rand 1/2" penumatic impact wrenches rated at 1100 ft-lbs for nut busting torque available for around $200. Harbor Freight also sells pneumatic impact wrenches that should be able to break 800 ft-lbs for less. Both are twin hammer designs and should be able to remove these with ease now that you have soaked penetrating oil for a few days,
Last edited by SilverSoarer; 03-23-2011 at 09:27 PM.
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