3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Greetings everyone, I have a 95 Camry LE, the rear driver side window will not go up...it is not the regulator or motor. I found some posts on the wiring which I believe is the problem...what I want to do is reverse the wires so it goes up instead of down (it did go down) what is the proper way to do this, also, I might have blown a fuse trying this earlier and I can't locate where the proper fuse is...thanks for your help!!
With the wiring, I think Blue is the hot, there are also two green and two red, one of each has a black line. I'm not sure if it is the green or red that will make it go up or down, any help here is also appreciated.
Greetings everyone, I have a 95 Camry LE, the rear driver side window will not go up...it is not the regulator or motor. I found some posts on the wiring which I believe is the problem...what I want to do is reverse the wires so it goes up instead of down (it did go down) what is the proper way to do this, also, I might have blown a fuse trying this earlier and I can't locate where the proper fuse is...thanks for your help!!
With the wiring, I think Blue is the hot, there are also two green and two red, one of each has a black line. I'm not sure if it is the green or red that will make it go up or down, any help here is also appreciated.
Did you resolve this? I've got the same problem...rear window will only go down. I tried a new motor, same thing, so it's not the motor. And I don't get any action from the driver's corresponding button, only the rear passenger's button will lower the window.
There are two relevant fuses. One is the 10A GAUGE, and the other is the 30A POWER.
The wiring diagram seems to indicate that the problem is the window control switch in the rear left hand door. It must be stuck.
Seems like it is easy for moisture or beverages to get into these switch units and cause malfunctions.
You might try getting a spray can of electrical contact cleaner ... fry's or RS, and applying it to the door switch ... operate the switch as you spray the contact cleaner.
You might try a replacement switch from a salvage yard.
Make sure your fuses are good, and the ignition is switched to ON.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
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Did you resolve this? I've got the same problem...rear window will only go down... only the rear passenger's button will lower the window.
Your problem description is somewhat confusing. If the master DS window switch will not control the window, but the individual window switch will, then it's either a broken wire in the wire loom passing from the driver's door to the body or it's a switch contact in the switch. On an earlier Toyota I was able to dismantle the switch and clean the contacts as they get burnt over time. A wreckers switch may not work any better, but is an option over new.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Thanks very much for the feedback guys. I am headed to a pick n pull within the next week and will report back. There will be plenty of these switches to grab, so maybe I'll grab a couple just in case.
(actually, cleaning the contacts sounds like a possibility too, might give this a shot first if I can get some electrical cleaner.)
Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 08-16-2011 at 04:53 PM.
No luck cleaning the contacts with electrical cleaner. One side of the button broke when I snapped it off the switch, so it needs replacing anyways.
So I'll pick up a rear switch as well as a front driver's switch, just in case there is some sort of continuity issue or something that a bad driver's switch perhaps could affect the rear switch.
If swapping these doesn't work, then I'll study the electrical diagram and test for proper continuity or ground or whatever I can figure out from the diagrams, which I just don't have the attention span to focus on right now, lol.
I found I had to use sand paper or some other abrasive to take the burn off the contacts. Check the DS door wire loom.
I took some pics:
Here's the switch assembly and where it broke when I leveraged a screwdriver underneath to take the top button off:
then I sprayed cleaner under where the button rests, the area where the loose metal 'rockers' are, which rock forward or back depending on button pushing up/down. You can see one is displaced and on it's side, easy to do but a small pain to return so it rests flat:
but I couldn't get the white part out of the black housing, where the contacts rest inside and probably where you suggest using some sandpaper. Is there a trick to removing this part, or should I just pull a little harder with some small screwdrivers prying each side?
Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 08-17-2011 at 07:51 PM.
Not sure where you are in the switch but when I took apart the master DS switch it had contacts on each button similar to distributor points that would rock back and forth with switch up/down position. How your switch comes apart I can't say as mine was a learn as you go thing. just be careful as the plastic get brittle with age.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Not sure where you are in the switch but when I took apart the master DS switch it had contacts on each button similar to distributor points that would rock back and forth with switch up/down position. How your switch comes apart I can't say as mine was a learn as you go thing. just be careful as the plastic get brittle with age.
I will check out the DS switch and see if I can improve it.
I removed the driver side switch, got it apart, and now I can see the 'distributor point'-like contacts that have blackened. I'll clean each of those contacts up, including the ones that are still working. With the smaller switch above, I see now that the white part must be separated from the black part somehow to reach and clean these contact points too.
I was very careful to take this switch apart because the DS door switches at the pick n pull were all stripped already, and I looked at a lot of camrys. Even on rather freshly available cars, these appeared to be one of the first things to go (probably the reason why...)
But there was no way to get the main cover off without breaking the two 'push-clips' on one side, they were too tight and brittle. Fortunately I was able to save the other side's clips, since I could now lift the cover off at an angle, putting less pressure on those to release. I will probably use aluminum tape on the broken side to keep it together once I remove all the foam/foam glue in the way.
I think I'm going to avoid getting into the door wire harness, it clearly hasn't been been tampered with since the car was manufactured. It still has the original sealing tape around it, so it's not likely to be a factor imo. I might try and find where the wires lead to after the harness goes thru the door frame into the car and see if I can learn anything if the refurbed switch still doesn't fix the window.
Later I'll post some pictures of what I've referenced for future reference.
Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 08-20-2011 at 03:39 AM.
I think I'm going to avoid getting into the door wire harness, it clearly hasn't been been tampered with since the car was manufactured. It still has the original sealing tape around it, so it's not likely to be a factor imo.
What happens is the constant flexing of the wires as the door opens/closes causes a wire or two to break inside the insulation. It's a pain to trace and fix but it can be done.
Edit: You can activate the windows from the switch plug contacts. You just need to figure out ground and power combinations. This may be a way to determine if a wire in the door wire loom is broken.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Last edited by Stillrunning; 08-20-2011 at 06:03 AM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Stillrunning For This Useful Post:
What happens is the constant flexing of the wires as the door opens/closes causes a wire or two to break inside the insulation. It's a pain to trace and fix but it can be done.
Edit: You can activate the windows from the switch plug contacts. You just need to figure out ground and power combinations. This may be a way to determine if a wire in the door wire loom is broken.
I see what you mean about the loom getting damaged over time. I'll study the wiring and try the plugs with a meter and some wires to try activating the window and/or continuity to the window.
I cleaned the DS power switch, sandpaper, electrical cleaner, the whole 9 yards and it didn't make a difference. And while holding the main pieces in one hand to take a pic with the other, they slipped and sort of 'exploded' in my hand, the little pieces and springs flying everywhere.
I recovered everything except can't make the window lock button stay down so I must be missing a small piece. Everything is back together but to lock the windows, I'd have to hold the button down. I'll have to go thru my pics for an indication of what the piece might be.
I put a battery to the target window's motor to make sure it works with polarity in both directions and it's fine up and down. This should have been my first test. I assumed since it worked in one direction it would work in the other, but that's probably not 100% fact.
The problem I have is that this car needs to be driven soon so I have to put the door panel/DS switch back on for now. I'm going to reinstall the rear window motor, in the up position of course, but temporarily reverse the wiring manually. This way, when I work on it, if successful, the window will go down. Otherwise when testing, the window will go down as it already does, but I won't be able to get it back up without taking the door panel off.
*sigh*
I think there might be a power main relay that I can test too, but am not sure if that could be a factor.
I see what you mean about the loom getting damaged over time. I'll study the wiring and try the plugs with a meter and some wires to try activating the window and/or continuity to the window.
I cleaned the DS power switch, sandpaper, electrical cleaner, the whole 9 yards and it didn't make a difference. And while holding the main pieces in one hand to take a pic with the other, they slipped and sort of 'exploded' in my hand, the little pieces and springs flying everywhere.
I recovered everything except can't make the window lock button stay down so I must be missing a small piece. Everything is back together but to lock the windows, I'd have to hold the button down. I'll have to go thru my pics for an indication of what the piece might be.
I put a battery to the target window's motor to make sure it works with polarity in both directions and it's fine up and down. This should have been my first test. I assumed since it worked in one direction it would work in the other, but that's probably not 100% fact.
The problem I have is that this car needs to be driven soon so I have to put the door panel/DS switch back on for now. I'm going to reinstall the rear window motor, in the up position of course, but temporarily reverse the wiring manually. This way, when I work on it, if successful, the window will go down. Otherwise when testing, the window will go down as it already does, but I won't be able to get it back up without taking the door panel off.
*sigh*
I think there might be a power main relay that I can test too, but am not sure if that could be a factor.
Did you ever resolve the issue? I have the same problem. Thanks
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