3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Well, my overheating issues have cropped back up again. I have a 93 XLE with the 3VZFE. First problem was a water pump that went out. After that, my radiator was almost totally clogged from stop-leak. Now, two flushes later, the cooling system still pushes a large amount of coolant into the reservoir, to the point where the engine begins to overheat again. I know it sounds like a head gasket, but there is no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, no white smoke, and a hydrocarbon test came back negative. the problem is very erratic- sometimes I'll have full heat in the car, and other times it's cold air. Sometimes it warms up a very large amount, other times it barely moves. Anyone have any ideas? Water pump/Thermostat were replaced a month or two ago, and the radiator was changed last week.
I do recall replacing a heater control valve that was stuck on a Ford and caused it to overheat. Not sure if the Camry has one, it should. I haven't checked.
It could be a heater cord clogging up, but I don't think that should cause the engine to overheat. Have you reverse flush it? It's quite a gamble because it can cause leaks if the clogs are what plugging the leaks.
I am getting bubbles at the filler neck, but I've filled the bloody thing so many times in the past month it could still be air trapped down there. The fan is working properly. I haven't reverse flushed it yet, it's still getting down into the 20's at night here. Also, it seems to work fine on short trips (2-3 miles), but horrible on about a 16 mile trip to school.
It does sound like a blown head gasket. I had the same exact symptoms. Its usually a small crack(or lift) thats letting exhaust into the coolant, overpressurizing the system causing the caps to open and letting the coolant boil out. which is why you have full hot volcanic heat followed by no heat when its pushed enough coolant out and theres not enough flowing to the heater core. The liquid HC tester is kinda rubbish at detecting small leaks like this, but if you take it to a radiator shop that has an electronic HC "sniffer" they will pick it up.
Alright, hate to keep beating a dead horse, but today I noticed that the problem was less pronounced. It was pushing more coolant than it should out, but not filling the tank like before. Also, I noticed the top radiator hose was very very hot, while the bottom one was cold. Is that normal?
Alright, hate to keep beating a dead horse, but today I noticed that the problem was less pronounced. It was pushing more coolant than it should out, but not filling the tank like before. Also, I noticed the top radiator hose was very very hot, while the bottom one was cold. Is that normal?
It's normal for the upper radiator hose to be hotter than the lower hose. The upper is coolant flowing from the engine and the lower one is coolant returning to the engine. But the lower shouldn't be dead cold. I'm guessing that whatever was flushed clogged up the radiator again or the new thermostat is stuck/bad. Something is not allowing the coolant to flow fast enought through the radiator.
thats not good, should be 176-180 degree thermostat. having it at 210 would make it open way late, building up too much pressure causing the cap to open and release the pressure. when you felt the lower hose, how long was the car running? test it out by letting it idle or keep it revved at 2k for a minute or two and keep checking to see when the lower hose gets hot, hopefully its way before the needle starts climbing passed half way.
thats not good, should be 176-180 degree thermostat. having it at 210 would make it open way late, building up too much pressure causing the cap to open and release the pressure. when you felt the lower hose, how long was the car running? test it out by letting it idle or keep it revved at 2k for a minute or two and keep checking to see when the lower hose gets hot, hopefully its way before the needle starts climbing passed half way.
Well as of right now its still just a theory, but we will definitely check. I felt the lower hose after about 20 minutes of driving- about 15 minutes city, 5 highway. Unfortunately my temp. gauge is malfunctioning (Doesn't go past half). We're getting it backflushed tomorrow (Hopefully a little more umph than the normal flushes we've done), and if that doesn't work my next idea will be the thermostat. If its not that I have an appointment with my mechanic in a week and a half to get it professionally diagnosed. Thanks for the patience and help with this! My car is such an integral part of my life, having it act up like this makes every trip more stressful than necessary.
Well, it looks like the problem is solved. Had the coolant system looked at and had people that knew what they were doing get the bubbles out. several trips later and it appears as though the problem has gone away. Still not totally sure that it is gone, once it gets to be about 90 outside and it still works fine I'll feel good about it again.
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