5SFE Intake Manifold Upgrade to 60mm 1MZ-FE TB - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-28-2011, 09:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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5SFE Intake Manifold Upgrade to 60mm 1MZ-FE TB



After about a month of procrastination and welcoming another member to the family (baby girl!) I have finally finished the 5SFE intake manifold upgrade. Stock 5SFE intakes come with a 50mm TB which is good for low-end torque and most applications. But for me, I am looking to build a high-revving all motor car while being as lightweight as possible. To enhance high-RPM operation I need to move more air so using the TB and part of the intake from the 1MZ-FE V6 was suggested by Gino - whom I give daily thanks for the idea! Thanks again, buddy!



You can see the increase in size with these two TBs - the 1MZ is on the left, of course. The entire process for conversion is not that difficult provided the tuner has all the right tools and know-how - this is part of the reason it took me over 4 weeks to complete!

MATERIALS NEEDED:

1. 1MZ-FE intake manifold
2. 5SFE manifold
3. Hacksaw
4. JB Weld
5. TIG welder
6. Rotary burr bit and various grades of sandpaper
7. Angle grinder or equivalent
8. Patience (The most important ingredient)



PROCEDURE:

Start with cutting about 1 to 1.5" off of the 5SFE manifold on the TB end. If you want to save the EGR system (I trashed mine) cut it at an angle to promote keeping the upstream EGR mounting bolt in place


Cut 1 to 1.5" off the 1MZ manifold in the same manner. If you are interested in keeping the EGR system allow this in your cut. A Sharpie works well for this purpose


After both manifolds been cut, discard the remaining 97% of the 1MZ intake and 3% of the 5S intake - or recycle - whatever you choose they are not needed for anything else for this project!
Take the small piece cut from the 1MZ intake and mate it on the 5S intake. This will show you how close the inside surfaces will be one the two pieces are joined


NOTE! BE SURE TO MAKE THE BOTTOM SURFACES OF BOTH PIECES FLUSH WHEN WELDING TO PROMOTE MAXIMUM AIRFLOW - I CANNOT STRESS THIS PART ENOUGH! MOST OF THE AIR MOVING THROUGH THE INTAKE PASSES OVER THE BOTTOM SURFACES - FOLLOWED BY THE UPPER SURFACES AND THEN THE SIDES.

Once you have both pieces in place it's time to weld the two together. I used a TIG welder with satisfactory results. I took my time and still burned a hole through the intake which JB Weld fixed without a problem!


Next comes the smoothing and polishing. I used a steel rotary burr which removes aluminum like it was plastic...great results with not that much time invested for the initial grinding



Follow this step with coarse and then finer grits of sandpaper. Patience is key with this step and I didn't polish as far as I could have but what the hell - the end result will still be superior to the stock bottleneck!




I spent very little time with the exterior surfaces of the two pieces and most of my time with the inside for obvious reasons.




Hole? What hole?

After you are satisfied with both surface finishes, you are ready to mount it! The cool thing about the 1MZ TB is that the TPS and IACV sensors are plug and play with the 5SFE counterparts...

ENJOY your newly found 2-3HP increase at 5000+ RPM!!!

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1997 Honda Civic 1.6 5-spd - 183K and 27 MPG average - Dependable DD and *small* family car
1991 Acura Integra 1.8 5-spd - 241K and 28MPG average - I'm game for a simple LS Vtec swap now...
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Jesus dude. Talk about creativity. That's awesome man. Sorry for doubting how serious you were when you first joined this board.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Inovation is key. Never doubt what another member can and will do otherwise we will never gain any aftermarket support.

Great job!! it looks awsome! and you got 2 orders waiting!!
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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+1 on what Chris said. Damn. Stickying.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Wow, that's a lot of work but hey, every HP counts.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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great job. awesome diy. never thought it could be done. your hard work and time truly paid off. heck this is diy of the year. hehe. one question though, is that 2-3 hp gain from the 1MZ manifold is with or without the CAI?
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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VERY cool!
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Help me bring 'er back to life!!!

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Old 03-28-2011, 11:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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To clean up and smooth those surfaces out, get a conical wire brush dremel bit. Those work wonders!
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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That "seat of the pants" 2-3 HP gain is only a guess and that POS "cold" air intake was on the car before the manifold switch. I actually found it in a garbage can in 2007 and modded it a little bit.

Next project is a REAL plastic CAI along the lines of ASG 14s setup which will be in conjunction with a racing battery install. Because having a 37 lb battery is just insane when you can buy a new 9 lb battery with half the CCA. It's a stickshift...why do I need a honkin' huge battery again??? I want to route the CAI tube right where the battery is and build an enclosure for REAL cold air. Never liked the wheelwell idea since it's prone to road grime, brake dust, and brake heat

I just ironed out a fast idle issue and noticed that the car hits redline in first a lot easier than before. With the old setup it seemed to run out of steam around 5500 RPM..BUT NOT NOW!
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1997 Honda Civic 1.6 5-spd - 183K and 27 MPG average - Dependable DD and *small* family car
1991 Acura Integra 1.8 5-spd - 241K and 28MPG average - I'm game for a simple LS Vtec swap now...
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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glad you got that issue fixed!! figure out how much it will cost to sell one and i got a buyer for you down here
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Very cool man. Nice job!

What's next after you get the CAI and lightweight battery installed?
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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@2wickedtoyz

I will do that...will let you know today after work.

@MisterPerkins

The next thing is probably the MR2 manual steering rack install - this will make the car a little easier to drive (I like it just fine but my GF says it's hard to steer...whatever)

Also the MR2 rack is about 15 lbs lighter than the power assisted unit. Thinking about making titanium end links (the part that connects the outer and inner tie rods)
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1997 Honda Civic 1.6 5-spd - 183K and 27 MPG average - Dependable DD and *small* family car
1991 Acura Integra 1.8 5-spd - 241K and 28MPG average - I'm game for a simple LS Vtec swap now...
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N/A Camry Sleeper View Post
@2wickedtoyz
Thinking about making titanium end links (the part that connects the outer and inner tie rods)
Er, you mean sway bar endlinks?
The inner and outer tie rods are connected together..
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichieRichJP View Post
Er, you mean sway bar endlinks?
The inner and outer tie rods are connected together..
The inner and outer tie-rods have a nut in the middle of them, One Right hand thread, the other left hand thread.
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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There is no slack with the 1mz TB connected to the 5SFE's?

You got a PM
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