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Old 03-30-2011, 07:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Fuel leak... advice needed

here's a pic (from behind the rear driver's side wheel):


So, today my car (94 Camry, 2.2l) was parked uphill and with full tank and there was a small patch of fuel on the ground running down from behind the driver's side rear wheel.

First time that I've visibly seen this leak, but I have been thinking that i could smell it on some occations... when i open a window and I'm driving, i guess it produces a back draft from the trunk area somehow making me experience a sligth smell.

The trunk doesn't smell when you open it, but there is like I said some kind of air passage bringing fuel smell in if a window is open.

So, in the picture, I don't know if both of those lines are fuel lines (?). What I can make out is that it's either a leak further up on the thinner line and fuel comming down along the line, causing the wetness of both lines when it gets blown of. Or the leak could be on the thicker line, getting sprayed out somehow under preassure causing both lines to get partially soaked like in the pic.

However it's only when being parked uphill like today (and totally full tank), that it will actually leak while beaing parked. It's not leaking now, that it's parked outside on flat ground.

Any input on this would be appreciated!
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You need a new Filler tube . Runs $80.00 - $120.00

Check around for the best prices.

Your smelling the fuel because when on a slant, the fuel is filling the fill tube partially up and fuel is escaping out the rotted hole.

Nothing to worry about too much, but I would recommend getting it fixed as soon as possible. The only risk you run is Getting fumes in the cabin, and catching your car on fire if someone has a lighter underneath the car, or you bottom out and sparks fly. Then your in some major trouble possibly

Edit:
the tube that actually looks completely shot is the Vent tube, but the actual Gas fill tube doesn't look to good either.

Also, the filler tube comes with both of those tubes. Vent tube and filler tube.

To replace it, you need to disconnect it from the fuel tank (Clamps), drop the Filler tube holding bracket (Pictured) and remove the 3 screws that hold the filler tube in place behind the gas cap.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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here is a DYI -

DIY: Fuel Filler Tube Replacement Procedure (GEN3)
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There ya go

Also, another thing that wasn't listed in that DIY, but its very logical to do is to buy a can of Sprayable Undercoating and spray the entire new filler tube. Allow it to dry overnight then install the next day. This will add more protection then just Metal tubing. The undercoating spray is kind of pricey, but like I said its well worth it.

Just make sure to not Cover up any Bolt holes or screw holes when you spray it!
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Old 04-01-2011, 01:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghettosled View Post
Awesome, thanks so much.

Ordered the part today... just $65 from rockauto
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Old 04-01-2011, 02:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You may also want to check your local pick and pulls, I happened to find one there for 5 dollars and it was in like new condtion as I had the same problem.

I didnt use the undercoat idea as personally for me I dont like undercoat for one reason, once it chips or gets a crack in it, there is a place for it to hold water. I did sand and paint mine liberally though.
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Old 04-01-2011, 02:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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your supposed to re-apply undercoating every few years! (about 5 years to be exact)

I wouldn't apply undercoating to anything that has rust on it though, unless you use Zinc Rust Converter on it first and get rid of every trace of rust
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Is it really necessary to remove the plastic fenderwell to install the new tube? As shown in the DIY tutorial? And wouldn't it be wise to pre-soak the bolts with penetrating oil for a couple days prior?
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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only takes 5 minutes to remove the liner... and I think you need the extra room for snaking the new tube into place.

presoaking bolts is always a good idea!

I did it yesterday and it went fine though i snapped a couple of bolts, but I can do without them.

Used a big plumbers plier to break lose the rubber tubing from the tank (carefully of course)
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Mr Perkins mentioned that there are 3 screws that hold the filler tube behind the gas cap,.........I don't see any on mine.... and didn't see any in the DIY tutorial.
Just looks to fit into the area with a gasket.
@twodoorcamry,....did yours have any?
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Where the filler tube attaches on the outside of the car there are screws holding it in place. (Where your Gas Cap is)
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I know when I did mine on my 94 the cap had screws, but I didnt need to take them out the filler neck did just slide into place. Normally on most all cars you would have to do that.
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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@Oceans,...your right,....the tube just pops out from behind! No need to remove anything else,....it's just a waste of time to do so. I wouldn't use undercoating on it either. It's been well known for years that using undercoating on anything is a bad idea . But re-spraying it with rustoleum paint would probably extend the life of a new filler tube.
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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the point of taking of the (4) screws inside the filler lid (the ones holding the squareish plate), would possibly be that if you have trouble getting the old hose clamps of where the rubber hoses fit on the old filler tube, you would get the extra wiggle space needed to get the whole piece out as one piece... filler tube with the rubber pieces still on it. And from there remove the rubber hoses safely without having to wrestle with them under the car with your hand wedged between the suspension member and the underside of the car. Then the same thing for getting the new piece in place, with hoses allready attached...
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Actually it can be done with the only pain in the behind is getting the tube off the tank. Once all bolts are removed and it is loose, it really isnt that bad. I would remove the wheel and the inside cover as you will need to for the room.
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