engine slipping after engine swap. what am i missing? sos

[kasperjames]

its rackin my brain.
i did a engine swap and the park to drive, and neutral to reverse seems to have lag. not a hard shift but a lag, perhaps some may even go as far as call it a hard shift but its not hard, just laggish.

i cant find the ground to the tranny, but the others, the front main seal wasnt replaced, and isnt leaking, the filter, the gasket and the transaxle was flushed and cleaned, it was a bit dirty but didnt appear to be outstanding.

ive heard alot of things, lucas stop slip? will shrink the seals and maintain the conditioning of the other non slipping seals? am i getting that right? is it seals? or something else? anyways...

so all i could find was tranny conditioner and tranny fix on the market from lucas unless theirs another product im overlooking.

so back to my story....with the flushes. i cant find the ground cable to the frame. unless its underneath. at the moment i havent been able to do a further inspection.

i know the speed censor had some tranny fluid spilled into it and it was cleaned and replaced but i dont know if the wireing harness is missing some connection. this is going to be looked at tomorrow.

the lag in which im speaking of comes when engageing the car from park to drive, and neutral to reverse, which means intake right? and since its not bucking on breaks and stops its not the output.

any thoughts on the sylonoids? take this into consideration.
we pulled the battery a couple of times and reset the computer.

obd2 was ran at local autoparts store and no codes came up. at no point did any codes pop up. i do know that p0770 would come up if the noides were congested or closed. right?

the guy at the auto store said that after 150k main or front pumps go out and can lead to other debilitating troubles in the tranny from their on out if left unattended or replaced.

on to the torque converter. i was advised to check the sensors on the pump, the main or front pump?

how come i cant find this main pump or front pump on the net? or even in the manual? how come i cant even find a corrisponding sensor?

i cant even find an exploded observation diagram for this.

in case i failed to mention i have a 1997 toyota camry 2.2 l 5sfe 4 cyl automatic.

moving on. someone somewhare said they changed the fuel pump and cleared the slip right up. alot of folks fail to even ingest this idea and see how that even did anything to change anything primarily related.

also, i cant seem to begin investigation on vaccum delivery to resolve such an issue. most have speculated on this but others disreguard it. any ideas on that?

how do i begin to inspect or check the lines there? i still have to check the book on this but im sure its not that hard but im sure theirs something special i need to do or another tool i have to get.

in short its never good to drive with slippage, right? because as i can see from some posts on here, people neglect the issue and assume rather then get it checked out.

whats the deal here?

oh ya, after having the computer reset, and haveing no codes show up, might i ask, does this mean thiers no possibility that theirs bad sensors and pumps?

being that theirs no specific local in my book on the fallowing whare can i get the information on:

the imput shaft? what is this? how do i know one is pinched? and is this signifigent?

how do i check the intake on the torque converter? whare is this located?
how do i clear or clean it?

i hear their can be backflow on the front pump seal if its pinched? how can it back flow and how do i know?

what are the sensors called on the pump? is their another name besides main pump or front pump?

theirs no gear lube to put in this is their? just the transaxle atf 2 or 3 right? cuz thats filled and cleaned.

thanks for any and all help.

[chronoti]

tl;dr

the ground to the tranny? find the negative terminal on your battery, see the 2 wires? good now one shorter than the other bolt it to the top of the tranny.

look at your tb see the cable going to the tranny? make sure it is taunt.

what is the condition of the 3 engine mounts?

there is a bushing on the shifter cable where it meets the trans is it ok?

[kasperjames]

whats that mean? tb?
an this?: "good now one shorter than the other bolt it to the top of the tranny." confused a bit. looking into this later around 330 pm EST.
thanks to anyone who has futher inquires. thanks!!!

[chronoti]

the throttle body, there is 2 wires comming off the negative of your battery, one goes to a ground point near the cabin and one bolts to the tranny, that is the ground line for the transmission.

[Mister_Perkins]

I would drop the valve body and make sure no particles got sucked into the solenoids. Check all the solenoids including the Shift lock Solenoid. Give it a good cleaning, and manually test the operation of them.

If you were having some shifting problems prior to this happening, but not as bad.. Flushing it could have actually messed it up even more.

Why? Because when your clutches start going bad, they are slipping just a little because the extra particles are filling the worn down areas of the clutches. When you flush the transmission, you are washing all of those particles that gave you friction away ... In-turn this will make it slip harder. Just a thought.

Also make sure All of the grounds are hooked up properly! Grounds make a world of difference

[kasperjames]

Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins

I would drop the valve body and make sure no particles got sucked into the solenoids. Check all the solenoids including the Shift lock Solenoid. Give it a good cleaning, and manually test the operation of them.

If you were having some shifting problems prior to this happening, but not as bad.. Flushing it could have actually messed it up even more.

Why? Because when your clutches start going bad, they are slipping just a little because the extra particles are filling the worn down areas of the clutches. When you flush the transmission, you are washing all of those particles that gave you friction away ... In-turn this will make it slip harder. Just a thought.

Also make sure All of the grounds are hooked up properly! Grounds make a world of difference

can i use lucas conditioner or jump to stop slip?
its shifting better, but ive noticed that i have one of two things accure here, i ground the larger wire to the tranny and the short one to the wall on the chassis and the long auxillery ground lead to the back of the bolt on the head of the engine behind the hoist linage above the knock sensor? which leads to the same location of the short fat black ground wire from the negative terminal.

from that long ground lead going to that location also connected to the chassis, theirs a split so i fed it to the rear/right bolt fastening the starter to the block, is this ok?

i assume the grounds around the back are all ok because their on the left of the block hitting the chassis and the intake manifold.

my reasoning is that ive heard alot of places for the main big black lead from the negative terminal including tranny as one, and to the engine block as the other main location to hit.

i did notice that someone said something about having one, obviously, going from the terminal negative to the rear, which the short one, wont reach....on the chassis, for the lights? head lights? anyways, i noticed that when the ground was not included on the tranny or the starter that a majority of the time the right turn signal would flash fast as to tell me it was out or going out. but it remains. and is currently only coming on 10 percent of the time.

something still isnt right. i had an individual tell me that he thought he heard a vaccume hose leak, and i searched and searched and could not find any main source outside of a short vaccume hose going from the throatle to the mainifold? area which did sound loud, but when i put water all over it, it did nothing. and the vaccume in general was just loud.??

i dont understand.

i also noticed that the vaccume hose going from the charcoal chamber behind the air filter compartment leads to a male connecter behind the manifold behind the block, intake?....and i got a fastener to tighten that up a bit with no major impact.

still i have delayed shifting.

autozone, advance, and oreillys cant run the test for my car on the testing component located to the left of the surge tank?

in worse case, if the clutches are going bad and i find out that the solenoids are ok and all the sensors are fine, and the intake isnt the issue and the front pump is ok, will stop slip keep things going for a while? because im running low on time, money, and options.

or can that conditioner do the job for now?

hope i can get these at the junk yard for a cheep price though if i need any of the sensors or solenoids.

options? ideas? anything and everything is great. especially someones correct knowledge of the exact grounding configuration for my:

1997 toyota camry 2.2 l 4 cyl 5sfe automatic.

thanks.

[kasperjames]

Originally Posted by chronoti

the throttle body, there is 2 wires comming off the negative of your battery, one goes to a ground point near the cabin and one bolts to the tranny, that is the ground line for the transmission.

so i tried to figure this out too when i got the car back and thats
that the larger of the two big black negative leads has the bit bolt loop for connection to....the engine or the tranny, so i put it on the tranny due to the majority of individuals or information that ive found leading me to believe this is the correct landing area for that one, and yet, the short one will only reach one bold thats under the battery tray, its a smaller loop. so. issue? read the last post for more detailed grounding as it sits. until someone gives me the correct ground information or can send me in the right direction.

ps. i still have a 15 inch ground mesh wire no on the car, i can put it wharever if its ok. but ive decided to leave it off for now.

do i even need to ground the starter?

[Mister_Perkins]

The snake oil could work, and could not work. Its hard to tell. You can try it, but there are no guarantees.

Vacuum has nothing to do with the shift points on the transmission, or the engaging or disengaging of the clutches.

The A140E is controlled by Hydraulic pressure. The only thing that is mechanical that can affect the flow is the kick-down linkage connected to the valve body. When you fully apply the throttle, it pulls up on the kickdown linkage and allows more hydraulic pressure to be applied, making your car downshift. Other than that, its all controlled by electronic solenoid, computer, and hydraulic pressure. On old school cars, the transmission was often controlled by Vacuum pressure, but not on the newer cars.

The grounds really can go anywhere on the transmission and motor. As long as its attached to a solid piece of metal, and then to the negative terminal or body its a good ground.

An example of a bad ground would be something like tapping into plastic, or rubber. As long as its on the bell housing, or a mounting bolt for a bracket on the transmission and the negative terminal, or body of the car you will be OK.

The Charcoal canister will not affect the transmission either. It is purely for emissions to capture Noxious gases from the motor.


Also, The starter does not need to be grounded.

The starter is grounding itself onto the motor, which is grounded to the battery and body of the car

You should really check the pressures that the transmission is putting out using a mechanical gauge.

[kasperjames]

how can i check that output on my own? is it in the haynes? i gotta get a chilton for this dont i?

oh and thanks. ive noticed that ive got alot of things going on but this is all very helpful!
so, whare and how. post any links etc. props!

[CBZED101]

I'll tell you this: I used the lucas transmission oil stabilizer thing that was suppose to stop slipping and smooth out the transmission and a month later my fluid was burnt to hell and my transmission almost failed. I'd recommend staying away from additives.

[kasperjames]

ya i hear it does burn fast, because it shrinks loose bands? and conditions the others, to keep everything tight? so obviously one needs to keep any eye on the levels for a few days/weeks. which i want to do. it could say to do that and keep checking back on the levels on the bottle though. so i do see how someone might be surprised to witness the burning off situation. curious to know what you did to maintain or keep it from "almost failing" when you saw it "burnt to hell"?

[CBZED101]

Originally Posted by kasperjames

ya i hear it does burn fast, because it shrinks loose bands? and conditions the others, to keep everything tight? so obviously one needs to keep any eye on the levels for a few days/weeks. which i want to do. it could say to do that and keep checking back on the levels on the bottle though. so i do see how someone might be surprised to witness the burning off situation. curious to know what you did to maintain or keep it from "almost failing" when you saw it "burnt to hell"?

I've done 3 drain and re-fills so far and that seemed to fix the problems I was having.

[kasperjames]

i took it to a place here in columbus ohio thats going to do a free scan of the tranny. and ill let you know what they say today.
i got word of a transmission masters, from advance and the entire shop praised them, not only that but when the tow guy, contracter for aaa came down to get it last night they guy knew the guy by name and praised him too. its like tracy or something anyways, honest and fair. i heard theyve gone above and beyond a few times too on some jobs for those in need. i dont know but i hope they can dio the issue and help me resolve it asap.

thanks for all the help around here! you guys are great.

[kasperjames]

so that's it. That's all I got but electrical and tranny good. Now they did ask if things were put in tight like the filter?
Anything else I. Should check when un mounting the pan to inspect? What could be loose that may effect pressure?
Idle speed at 23 drops from1950 to 1250.

So the pump isn't getting pressure from? Whare? If its not the solenoids and nothings broke or failing the tests. What could be wrong?

Theirs a 30 $ book at capital core here locally covering the entire tranny. Should I buy it?
They also have a 100$ main pump. Do I just buy it? And take a chance? Or inspect it after removal?
Can I test it manually? After removal?

Is their anything under the pan that may cause low pressure under 2000k rpm?
Thanks again.

[kasperjames]

So I called a few. Places. 100 for the front pump. Is the only deal I could find. Toyota wanted 550 for a new front pump. Wow. That's all I'm saying. That's nuts. And wanted 150 for 1 of 3 volumes of the tranny manual. So I guess 30 for a step by step how to manual is pretty good. Anyways.

Local part store guy couldn't find it nor could napa. The guy said id have to buy a "whole new transmission".
What? That's not advice. That's opinion. And I don't need a new one. Its fine. Its just the front main pump.

Whare can I find a comp deal with perhaps a warrenty?

Again I'm going to check that hydrolic kick down lever tomorrow. But. Again still seeking ideas on anything else to chedck.
Any more ideas?