3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Yesterday, I went to turn on my car it took longer than it usually does to turn on. I went to pick up my friend at her house. She took like 5 min so I was like let me turn off my car.. I tried to turn it back on it was completely dead..my sister comes to charge up battery. It took like 5 min to turn on. I disconnect cables and it felt like car was getting ready to die.. I bought battery like a year ago.
Yesterday, I went to turn on my car it took longer than it usually does to turn on. I went to pick up my friend at her house. She took like 5 min so I was like let me turn off my car.. I tried to turn it back on it was completely dead..my sister comes to charge up battery. It took like 5 min to turn on. I disconnect cables and it felt like car was getting ready to die.. I bought battery like a year ago.
If your car didn't die when you recharged the battery, I would have to lean towards the alternator may be OK.
You should really get both of them checked out though to be sure. I would grab a digital multimeter and check the voltage the alternator is outputting and also the voltage the battery is retaining. Make sure the battery terminals are clean, and tight also. A loose battery terminal will not charge properly, and you will loose voltage as the car is running. Especially with Radio, AC, etc.. on. It requires more draw from the battery. IF you can grab the battery terminals and Turn them by hand, they are too loose.
you can have the battery and alternator both checked at autozone or advanced auto for free
Last year I got a new battery, and then my car wouldn't start while I was out to eat! I was freaking out thinking maybe I'd shorted the system out. Eventually someone pushed down on the cables hard enough and it started up...
Once started the car should be running off of the power supplied by the alternator unless there is a problem with the alternator. 3 0r maybe 4 weeks back my daughters car kept not wanting to start but would run fine once jumped. The problem then turned out to be a corroded battery post. Looking at the post it didn't really look all that bad but once the positive terminal battery post was cleaned up a bit the problem was gone all together. If either one of your battery terminals looks even the slightest bit corroded or even has an "oxidized" look to it then I'd suggest removing the cable from the post and then cleaning the contact areas of both the cable and the post really good with either a wire brush or scraping with some sort of blade. I used my carry knife since that's what I had readily available. Our problem was solved.
One way to see if it's an alternator is to get the car running and then disconnect one of the battery cables. If the car stalls after the battery is disconnected its a sure sign that you have a weak/bad alternator. A word of caution here. Some people will say to never do that but I can't tell you why exactly. I've done it on a number of vehicles over the years and never had a problem myself.
Go to Autozone for free battery and charging system testing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by netsfan549
Yesterday, I went to turn on my car it took longer than it usually does to turn on. I went to pick up my friend at her house. She took like 5 min so I was like let me turn off my car.. I tried to turn it back on it was completely dead..my sister comes to charge up battery. It took like 5 min to turn on. I disconnect cables and it felt like car was getting ready to die.. I bought battery like a year ago.
disconnecting the alternator is dangerous while the vehicle is running because you can risk Electrical shock if you ground yourself and grab the alternator in the wrong spot.
I do not recommend testing it this way. It does work, but there is a chance that you can get seriously injured or die so I wouldn't stand behind that.
disconnecting the alternator is dangerous while the vehicle is running because you can risk Electrical shock if you ground yourself and grab the alternator in the wrong spot.
I do not recommend testing it this way. It does work, but there is a chance that you can get seriously injured or die so I wouldn't stand behind that.
Maybe I missed it the first time through but I didn't see where anybody recommended disconnecting the alternator.
Your statement makes no sense. I've never even heard of anybody trying to disconnect an alternator while the car was running. What purpose could that possibly serve to begin with. Not trying to start a fight here... Just sayin...
maybe it was a good technique on old cars with less electronics, carburetors and stuff, but it's a no no for gen3/4 camry.
disconnecting the battery (either post/terminal) and letting car run on alternator only is asking for trouble on cars loaded with electronics, fragile sensors and computer managing the ignition... DO NOT do that ... or consider replacing a few expensive electronic parts if things take a wrong turn ... definitely NOT the way to test the alternator, plain stupid.
get the car to Autozone or Advance Auto and let them handle the alternator load testing for you for free, on car, safely.
of course lots of people will tell you go ahead and do that, because they've done it dozens of times and nothing bad happened, but remember that those people will not cover your loss if something actually happens to your car while listening to them and doing that. why risk it if there is a safe (and FREE!) way to properly get it done?
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
disconnecting the alternator is dangerous while the vehicle is running because you can risk Electrical shock if you ground yourself and grab the alternator in the wrong spot.
I do not recommend testing it this way. It does work, but there is a chance that you can get seriously injured or die so I wouldn't stand behind that.
Haha! I learned this the hard way
__________________
Call Pizza Hut, and Tell'em I got Deep Dish
maybe it was a good technique on old cars with less electronics, carburetors and stuff, but it's a no no for gen3/4 camry.
disconnecting the battery (either post/terminal) and letting car run on alternator only is asking for trouble on cars loaded with electronics, fragile sensors and computer managing the ignition... DO NOT do that ... or consider replacing a few expensive electronic parts if things take a wrong turn ... definitely NOT the way to test the alternator, plain stupid.
get the car to Autozone or Advance Auto and let them handle the alternator load testing for you for free, on car, safely.
of course lots of people will tell you go ahead and do that, because they've done it dozens of times and nothing bad happened, but remember that those people will not cover your loss if something actually happens to your car while listening to them and doing that. why risk it if there is a safe (and FREE!) way to properly get it done?
That seems to be the most logical thing to do in this instance if you're able.
Leaving work tonight when I started my 93 Camry XLE V6 the yellow bad taillight indicator light came on and then the red battery/recharge light came on 30 seconds after. They stayed on the whole way home as my dash lights/headlights got dimmer and dimmer. The two warning lights flickered at the same rate while idling. The engine ran for about 25 minutes/15 miles before dying completely 200 yards short of my driveway.
It was 11:00 at night so I grabbed a new battery at Wal-Mart and installed it - same warning lights are still on.
If its not the battery its the alternator right?
The terminals are connected tightly. The drive belt seems tight and secure. All brake/tail lights are working.
I'm headed to Advance AP in the a.m. to test the system and then to WMT to get my $9.00 recycle fee/core charge for the old battery.
yes, if battery connections are clean, then it looks like alternator crapped out. get it tested at Autozone or Advance, they check alternators for free if I'm not wrong.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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