Help !!!! (I can't type an informative title!)

[killacam97]

Hi, I own a 97 Camry LE 4 CYL. My #1 spark plug wire kept jumping out and causing the engine to shut off. So I replaced the spark plug gasket and it worked fine until today. I was driving and the car and it just cut off. I have to press the pedal so the car will crank. Once cranked it stays idled under 1000 rpm. I can drive it about a half a mile and it cuts off again. The gasket that's on top of the valve cover has a little pin gap between that and the valve cover. Would that cause the engine to keep dying? Any suggestions?

[fenixus]

is the CEL on? have you scanned it for codes at Autozone or Advance Auto?

[killacam97]

Yes, the codes are 0300 and the other was 1310, I think he said. Something about random missfire.

[fenixus]

P0300 is a random misfire on different cylinders (nothing specific).
however P1310 has quite narrow trouble are:
-Open or short in IGF or IGT circuit from igniter to ECM
-Ignition coil (No.2)
-ECM

the reason why your car shuts down is that once ECU looses signal (IGF or IGT) from coil no.2, it will go into fail-safe mode forcing the fuel cut condition. once the signal is restored (coil replaced or wiring/connector fixed), it won't do it again unless the ECU is faulty and causes the problem in first place.

first check the plug to ignition coil no.2 (IIRC it serves cylinders 2 & 3) for any obvious damage and at least visually check wiring for any damage spots.
would be good if you could check wiring continuity between coil and ECU end with an ohm-meter.

you will need electrical wiring diagrams to do that.

ultimately you may need to check the ignition coil, at least the resistance checks (primary and secondary circuit).

Autozone ignition coil check for 5s-fe:
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the high-tension terminals. It should be between 9.7-16.7 k-ohms when the coil is cold or 12.4-19.6 k-ohms when the ignition coil is hot.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c1528009242d

likely the coil went bad or wiring is damaged, ECUs do not go bad that often.

PM sent.

[killacam97]

Thank you for this helpful information. About 5 months ago I replaced the 2 & 3 coil pack. Purchased one from .com for about half the price of most retail stores. ( That was the problem, lesson learned never go cheap). About 2 months ago I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Now I've ran into this problem. Tomorrow I will purchase a new coil pack from dealership and install. I will keep everyone updated once installed and let you know if the problem is solved. Again thanks for the advice.

[fenixus]

seems you've got the root cause. good luck

[killacam97]

So today I replaced the coil pack, and no codes are showing. Car is running fine and seems to be running better than ever. Thanks again for your help and also the pdf file you sent me. That may come in handy some day!!!!!

[fenixus]

no problem, glad you fixed it

[Silent Runner]

Yet another reason to go with dealer parts, or OEM suppier. Hate to harp but, as Fenixus, has said at least a few times "around the engine, OE, or OE suppier". It sucks on cost, but ya just gotta do it man! Theres tons of stuff that aftermaket suppliers have done better to enhance the car, but don't screw around with engine control, and sensor components. IMO, also.

Wheres the "Great Wisdom Emoticon"?

[fenixus]

LOL yeah I keep saying that for a reason
hehe, thanks for your support Silent Runner