3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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i have a 94 camry v6 LE 170k, I have to top off my coolant reservoir repeatedly, and i found it leaks at the fin at the bottom of the radiator, and looks like the aluminum fins are corroded
we bought the vehicle since new in 1994, and never change the radiator yet, and it seems like now it is the time.
there is only one radiator fan, driven by power steering pump hydraulic system.
does anyone have a DIY how to replace radiator on this particular camry?
its covered in the haynes and chiltons manuals that are available from the auto parts stores. its very easy to replace with regular tools. you just unbolt the whole fan assembly and shroud from the rad, move it back and slide the radiator up.
It's really easy, I changed mine a few months ago. You first drain the coolant by unscrewing the pitcock on lower left-hand corner of the radiator. Then, unbolt the two brackets on top of the radiator, disconnect the upper and lower coolant hoses, disconnect transmission hose from the radiator then lift that
sucker out of there
__________________
If you aint rubbin you aint dubbin' (volkswagen)
I changed the radiator, the old one has green color on the fins, the temperature needle on dash was just a little above c before change, now the needle is around middle, but the reservoir seems bubbling after 30 miles on high way, I did filled beyond max on reservior, now coolant seems overflown
Did you burp the cooling system after refill? Did you get most of what you drain out back in? What's the temperature difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses?
There are causes like a radiator cap that doesn't hold pressure (therefore coolant boils easily), or a thermostat that's stuck shut, or a blown HG. That's why I'd always replace the items I mentioned when changing out a radiator.
But the thing you need to do now is let it cool down completely, see how much more coolant you have to add into the radiator. With it filled back up, run the engine with the cap on until the cooling fan comes on once or twice (at 2000 RPM to shorten the time). Shut down the engine and carefully feel the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if they're both warm (the lower will be cooler however). Watch out for hot exhaust pipes. And then let it cool down again. The radiator should be full or nearly so.
I typically do the heat cycle without driving. Takes a long time I know but works very well.
Did the car have green coolant in there before? I'd use only Toyota Red or Valvoline G-05 (with an aftermarket pump using a carbide seal instead of cheap rubber seal) and mixed with 50% distilled water.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bronzemaxell
I changed the radiator, the old one has green color on the fins, the temperature needle on dash was just a little above c before change, now the needle is around middle, but the reservoir seems bubbling after 30 miles on high way, I did filled beyond max on reservior, now coolant seems overflown
BTW, Stant 10241 and Gates 31411 are advertised as "closed system" caps. I need to check if they use the better spring loaded return valves instead of the cheap hang-loose plastic valve under the cap.
BTW, Stant 10241 and Gates 31411 are advertised as "closed system" caps. I need to check if they use the better spring loaded return valves instead of the cheap hang-loose plastic valve under the cap.
i don't think it is boiling, it seems like just the coolant overflown, maybe i added too much to the coolant reservior, it is about 1 to 2 inch above the max line at cold, thinking maybe factor in the air gap in the cooling system, but after i drove about 30 miles, and then 10 blocks of local traffic, it was making pu pu pu sound at the reservior, i popped the hood, and the coolant is full at the reservior. the temperature needle on dash is constant almost in the middle, but like i mentioned earlier, before i changed the radiator, the needle barely make it above the C, like 1/4 between H and C on the C side.
upper and lower radiator hoses to the radiator, hoses to heat core, throttlebody, along with water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, all toyota geninue parts, has been changed 10k miles ago, i don't know if they can fail prematurely that fast. the only one i didn't change is the coolant bypass hose under the intake manifold.
oh, by the way, my 94 v6 LE radiator fan is always spinning when the engine is running, at low speed, and it does spin faster once in a while.
It's probably a nearly full reservoir and a cooling system with an air pocket working its way out then. So if you remove the rad cap (engine cold) is the system full? And does the rad cap have a spring loaded valve or a plastic hang-loose valve under the cap?
GM also makes AC systems for some models, and it uses Aisin transmissions too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bronzemaxell
it is spectra premium CU1746, picked up from local shop that buy from some auto supplier, didn't want to wait for online shipment.
it look exactly the same like my toyota radiator (lasted 17 years), let's see how long this will last
It's probably a nearly full reservoir and a cooling system with an air pocket working its way out then. So if you remove the rad cap (engine cold) is the system full? And does the rad cap have a spring loaded valve or a plastic hang-loose valve under the cap?
GM also makes AC systems for some models, and it uses Aisin transmissions too.
I have been having coolant issues for almost 8 months now. Here is what I have learned-
1. Use OEM caps.
2. Use OEM caps.
3. Use OEM caps.
4. A thorough burp of the system is absolutely necessary for the system. Turn the car on, take off the fill neck cap, put a funnel in there (somehow seal it so coolant goes up into the funnel as it warms.), occasionally rev engine, wait for the bubbles to stop (add coolant as necessary).
5. My (and possibly your) temp gauge is totally innaccurate. (Almost no coolant at all left in the system and barely past half. Or, operating normally and at almost the same point) Do not use the gauge as a good indicator. Best way to tell I've found is turn the heat on and make sure it isn't blowing cold)
6. Another good way to tell if it is air pockets is to feel each side of the radiator. When mine has air pockets the driver's side is cold.
7. If all else fails, get a Head gasket test done to make sure you don't have a HG problem introducing more pressure into the system (and consequently filling the overflow.)
8. If coolant is pushed out of the overflow tank and onto the ground, you will probably need another burp. My dad and I have this procedure down to about 20 minutes due to performing it almost a dozen times.
Did you burp the cooling system after refill? Did you get most of what you drain out back in? What's the temperature difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses?
There are causes like a radiator cap that doesn't hold pressure (therefore coolant boils easily), or a thermostat that's stuck shut, or a blown HG. That's why I'd always replace the items I mentioned when changing out a radiator.
But the thing you need to do now is let it cool down completely, see how much more coolant you have to add into the radiator. With it filled back up, run the engine with the cap on until the cooling fan comes on once or twice (at 2000 RPM to shorten the time). Shut down the engine and carefully feel the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if they're both warm (the lower will be cooler however). Watch out for hot exhaust pipes. And then let it cool down again. The radiator should be full or nearly so.
I typically do the heat cycle without driving. Takes a long time I know but works very well.
Did the car have green coolant in there before? I'd use only Toyota Red or Valvoline G-05 (with an aftermarket pump using a carbide seal instead of cheap rubber seal) and mixed with 50% distilled water.
i doubt i have a blown hg, engine never overheat in the past, no white smoke, no milky engine oil, i heard 93 3.0L prone to hg issue, but mine is a 94 1mz 3.0L.
my car used to have brown color coolant, yes, that is the color of coolant from toyota, but during the last timing belt change, i flushed out all the coolant with garden hose for few hours, and changed it to toyota red coolant with distill water 50/50 mix.
after i replaced the radiator, i filled the red coolant with distill water 50/50 mix at the radiator cap until top off, then started engine, and continue filling until top off, and kept the engine running until warmed, i do see steam coming out where i spilled a little coolant down the engine, as soon as i saw the coolant rushing out of the radiator cap hole, about 5 minutes, i shut off the engine, closed the hood, clean up. i did not turn the heat to high like i did when i flushed my radiator in the past.
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