3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hey my cousin has a 2000 camry with about 87,000 miles on it and it started knocking. The OBD II scanner read codes P0440, P0441, and P0446... From what i've heard it has to do with the evap system
Hey TN, owner of said 2000 Camry here. I can't tell you if it's really engine knocking mentioned above or not as I've never had a car with that problem. I watched some youtube videos of engine knocking and my engine noise doesn't sound as severe as those on the videos. I will try to get a video with sound of it and have it uploaded for TN to determine.
As for the DTCs, I went to have my CEL read today and these three codes popped up. Came home and searched it up, read the posts here that contained those codes for the 4th gen Camry. I haven't gotten around to doing troubleshoots for it yet but will come around to it after gathering more information.
First off would be replacing the gas cap with a new one. Should I reset the CEL and see if it comes on again before attempting other troubleshoots?
Should the CEL come up again, what steps would I take then to troubleshoot the codes? I have experience working on cars and experience with a DMM as I've read in posts that checking voltage and/or resistance was necessary for one of these codes. Though, I've never worked on an EVAP system before. I also read that there are multiple VSVs, where are the locations of these VSVs? From reading I know one is located next to the charcoal canister which is in the rear of the vehicle.
It could be predetonation. Run half a can of sea foam through the intake and half in a half tank of 93 octane. After the seafoam in the intake let it sit for 15 min and then take it on a good high way blow out with some spirited acceleration.
However, make sure its not valve chatter or a spun bearing, pre detonation is not as loud as a mechanical failure.
It could be predetonation. Run half a can of sea foam through the intake and half in a half tank of 93 octane. After the seafoam in the intake let it sit for 15 min and then take it on a good high way blow out with some spirited acceleration.
However, make sure its not valve chatter or a spun bearing, pre detonation is not as loud as a mechanical failure.
Stop driving the car ASAP. That sounds like a spun bearing. Drive it some more and a piston WILL shoot out through the block and it'll be new car time.
If youve done this type of stuff before then change the rod bearings. If not have it towed to a good shop to get the rod bearings changed. If its never been run low on oil there's a chance that's all it will need. If its been run low on oil then chances are the engines junk.
The rod bearing change alone wont cost to much, but if the cranks scored and scratched its probably time for another engine.
Stop driving the car ASAP. That sounds like a spun bearing. Drive it some more and a piston WILL shoot out through the block and it'll be new car time.
If youve done this type of stuff before then change the rod bearings. If not have it towed to a good shop to get the rod bearings changed. If its never been run low on oil there's a chance that's all it will need. If its been run low on oil then chances are the engines junk.
The rod bearing change alone wont cost to much, but if the cranks scored and scratched its probably time for another engine.
I've never done this type of work before. I just read up on spun bearings and rod bearing change (probably won't attempt it myself) and most say that if I drop the oil pan I should see metal chips/glitter in it if I spun a bearing. That, I can do myself to check. Will this signify that the cranks are scratched or just a spun bearing? Its never ran on low oil before and when I checked the oil levels, they were fine.
What is the difficulty of this job as a DIY given that I have the right tools to start with?
Also, the noise is at its loudest when the engine hasn't warmed up yet.
I've never done this type of work before. I just read up on spun bearings and rod bearing change (probably won't attempt it myself) and most say that if I drop the oil pan I should see metal chips/glitter in it if I spun a bearing. That, I can do myself to check. Will this signify that the cranks are scratched or just a spun bearing? Its never ran on low oil before and when I checked the oil levels, they were fine.
What is the difficulty of this job as a DIY given that I have the right tools to start with?
Also, the noise is at its loudest when the engine hasn't warmed up yet.
Drain the oil and cut open the oil filter. If there's any metal its a bearing.
In order to drop the pan you need to drop the exhaust, its not that bad of a job. But draining the oil will show you if there are shavings.
And it could possibly be the water pump as mentioned above. Sometimes the bearing will have in and out play and make a metallic noise, but usually it will seize up. But if the oil comes out clean that's the second thing I would look into.
I had a timing belt tensioner make a similar noise on a 96 5sfe...Has the TB, tensioner and WP ever been replaced?
I just recently got the car from a relative with 87k miles on it. She's always kept it well maintained, check ups and tunes up on time. And in fact, before she sold the car to me, she had the timing belt and water pump changed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsrus
Drain the oil and cut open the oil filter. If there's any metal its a bearing.
In order to drop the pan you need to drop the exhaust, its not that bad of a job. But draining the oil will show you if there are shavings.
And it could possibly be the water pump as mentioned above. Sometimes the bearing will have in and out play and make a metallic noise, but usually it will seize up. But if the oil comes out clean that's the second thing I would look into.
I will do as you say above tomorrow and look for metal shavings. I'm really hoping I won't see any.
If the problem comes down to the water pump, timing belt, or tensioner, is it an easy DIY? I'll be reading more information pertaining to the three but more knowledge is appreciated.
I'll also be looking into codes P0440, P0441 and P0446. Where do I start looking and what do I check for other than the gas cap?
Check the vacuum switching valve on the air filter housing. It's probably stuck and not allowing the EVAP to purge properly into the throttle body. You can carefully pry out the metal tabs and clean it, or get a new one after verifying it's bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ddizzle
Hey my cousin has a 2000 camry with about 87,000 miles on it and it started knocking. The OBD II scanner read codes P0440, P0441, and P0446... From what i've heard it has to do with the evap system
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