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#1 Old 04-21-2011, 08:21 PM
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Control Arm Bushing bad?

This is the passenger side control arm, this side makes the most clunking.





Deemed bad, causing the clunking noise?
I've narrowed it down to the control arm or strut mount.

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#2 Old 04-22-2011, 10:30 AM
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Looks as if you control arm bushing are very bad. The fact that you can see through the bushing part makes it unsafe. And yes this is one of the leading causes of that clunking noise. As for the strut mount....if it's never been replaced then I would not do one without the other. You might as well start with new suspension from the ground up if your planning on keepin her.


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#3 Old 04-22-2011, 11:01 AM
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Yes, I'm keeping it until its no longer drivable.

The front strut mounts is 3 years old, along with the front struts. But I have read alot of bad things about KYB mounts, clunking immediately after installation, and they're are made in India or China depending on what you get. KYB struts are made in Japan, so they're good.

I glad Energy Suspension makes a control arm bushings kit, so I can press them in/out at school, so it won't be expensive.

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#4 Old 04-22-2011, 04:52 PM
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Yeah those are definitely bad, you can buy them serperately, but it is a huge pain in the you know what. I woudl replace with a new arm altogether. As far as strut mounts, definitely go only with Toyota parts there.

Aftermarket strut mounts are well just a waste of time..
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#5 Old 04-22-2011, 08:25 PM
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At my school, we have a press and all the tools needed to do this, and I want to learn.
It might be worth it too since poly will last a lot longer. $40 for the bushing kit for both sides vs. 60 each Dorman control arms.
Yup, KYB is garbage for mounts, MOOG mounts in the rear are fine.

I will replace those first since I know they are actually bad. Then do the mounts because its feels like a combo of both lower frame clunking and popping sounds at the top, close to the hood.

Ball joints looked good, no cracking and moved easily, tie-rods have started to squeeze out grease if press on the rubber. Replacing those next.

How do you check the the steering rack bushings, where are they located?

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#6 Old 04-22-2011, 08:38 PM
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you should replace those control arms, easiest to get new OEM ones, or whatever you prefer. yours look bad...

as per mounts. I haven't read too many complains on Monroe mounts and in fact those in front quick struts on both cars we own are very nice and quiet. I really like monroe quick struts
new Toyota mounts should be good (revised design), but original ones were crappy too... lots of gen4 camry TSB on front mounts on many models, especially the passenger side (camry and solara around year 2000).
KYB mounts get extremely terrible reviews, maybe only Mevotech is worse

as per other parts you mentioned.

ball joints are not supposed to move freely. the studs in them should feel stiff and hard to move.
my old (cracked boots) ball joints were totally loose on V6 on both sides to the point where the gravity force was able to move the stud around (after removing both of the steering knuckles off car).
new Moog ball joints (installed and loaded with grease at local shop) were stiff, which is good here.

outer tie rod ends will spill grease (by stud) if you push/pull the stud to very side, that's normal too. if their boots are not cracked, I would leave them alone.


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#7 Old 04-22-2011, 10:28 PM
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I don't think Toyota is the way to go on this, the 07 looks just as bad.

I will get Toyota mounts since they're not that expensive, $62 each.

On the ball joint I was able to move it easily because I had the control arm removed, nothing was bolted to the ball joint. It was still attached to the knuckle. I also read ball joints usually don't go bad on these cars.

Tie-rods, the boots aren't cracked either, I never removed them for the knuckle either, just pressed on the boot and a little grease came out. I keep on forgetting to ask my teacher to take a look at those. If they will improve tightness in steering I will replace them.

I think I could get those bushings pressed in/out, circular one looks easy. The front bushing/pin may be difficult since it has to be pushed out from the inside. We will probably just torch it.

Anybody have an idea on how to change rack bushings.

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#8 Old 04-22-2011, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun View Post
I don't think Toyota is the way to go on this, the 07 looks just as bad.
The control arms are cheap stamped steel, so be careful when you press.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun View Post
I will get Toyota mounts since they're not that expensive, $62 each.
Toyota OEM mounts are supposedly KYB mounts. The aftermarket KYB ones are taller and their struts stiffer to help "compensate" for worn suspension components. For those who like OEM parts KYB should still be fine, but I don't care for KYB.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun View Post
On the ball joint I was able to move it easily because I had the control arm removed, nothing was bolted to the ball joint. It was still attached to the knuckle. I also read ball joints usually don't go bad on these cars.
The Moogs are metal balls on metal bearings and when periodically greased can last just about forever. The OEM permanent lubed ones are highly polished metal balls on plastic bearings. So you may have easier movement with OEM, but if it falls on gravity then I'd change it.

IMO these components (LCA bushings, ball joints, outer tie rod end, CV boots, wheel bearings) are ripe for replacement around 120-150K miles preventatively.
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#9 Old 04-22-2011, 11:37 PM
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I really hope I don't get KYB's shit again. Are the revised strut mounts made by them too?

Wheel bearings are good I think, no drag or resistance, wheels are never hot, and will roll easily.

CV Boots look brand new, except for the inner boot on the passenger because of the power steering leak. Only little cracks now.

I may replace ball joints and tie-rod ends based on my teacher recommendations. Both will be Toyota parts, won't have time to periodically check things once I'm in school.

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#10 Old 04-23-2011, 02:20 AM
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I believe the new OEM mounts are still KYB based on the rubber portion of the mount. But can't say for certain. Maybe they are made better? Dunno. Maybe take an old mount and compare with the new dealer mount at the counter?

As far as greasable vs permanent joints I agree that the easier the better. These cars aren't like heavy duty trucks. Extra grease zerks to clean and pump grease every oil change or two sucks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun View Post
I really hope I don't get KYB's shit again. Are the revised strut mounts made by them too?

Wheel bearings are good I think, no drag or resistance, wheels are never hot, and will roll easily.

CV Boots look brand new, except for the inner boot on the passenger because of the power steering leak. Only little cracks now.

I may replace ball joints and tie-rod ends based on my teacher recommendations. Both will be Toyota parts, won't have time to periodically check things once I'm in school.
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#11 Old 04-23-2011, 11:30 AM
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exactly, the greasable suspension parts suck on daily driver cars
I still haven't figured out what to do with my Moog ball joints on V6 ... probably will have to invest in a tiny grease gun and cartridge and store it somewhere hehe. If it was easy, I would swap them with non-greasable parts and forget the thing, it's just a PITA to remember (another maintenance item).

same reason why I no longer want to buy Moog sway bar end links, they are 99% sure greasable type too (manuf pictures do not confirm it, however some forum reviews do though), instead I went with cheap Turkish Deeza end links (sealed units) from amazon at $21/each for wife's 5s-fe car ... they look good and the stupid hex key in stud was eliminated from this design (only easy nuts to tighten down).

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
As far as greasable vs permanent joints I agree that the easier the better. These cars aren't like heavy duty trucks. Extra grease zerks to clean and pump grease every oil change or two sucks.


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#12 Old 04-23-2011, 12:44 PM
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I'm thinking maybe the front struts are already bad, because I drove over a dip and the front bottomed out and the rear didn't, weird.

Once I get these bushings and ball joints replaced, I will take it to the dealer and have them find what else is causing the banging noise. I may consider quick struts, depending on how everything prices out.

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#13 Old 04-23-2011, 01:20 PM
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if front bottomed out when driving over a dip, that's bad already. how deep down the nose goes when you brake hard? feels like it almost touching the ground? does it go up a lot when you accelerate hard?

With your problems in front strut assemblies, I would order Quick Struts for V6 in a blink of an eye and swap them, just $125 per side in rockauto.com, their shipping is cheap and fast.
it takes like 30 minutes per side, maybe more if sway bar end links have rusty nuts on top.
don't forget about getting it re-aligned afterwards. it's good for tire life to have tie in zeroed out.


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#14 Old 04-23-2011, 02:48 PM
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It does nose dive, but I don't remember how bad. When I accelerate its not bad.
I'm not completely sure if the struts are bad, so I will have the dealer or if my teacher can find what the other problems may be.

I think I bottomed out because it was a 35mph dip and I was going 50, haha.

Quick Struts do seem like a good choice because I want it soft up front, so I don't feel any bumps or lane markers. The front struts are extremely easy to replace, 30 minutes tops for each side like you said, and I don't have any rust on my car. If both the struts and mounts are bad, I will wait until I need new tires, and get the Quick Struts and Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S 215/65R15 tires.

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#15 Old 04-25-2011, 03:00 PM
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So my teacher said NOT to do the bushings. He can get me the passenger control arm w/balljoint from Oreilly(Masterpro) for $129. Or I can get the Toyota control arm and ball joint for $175.

Anything bad which generic ball joints? Worst cast scenario I just have to replace the Masterpro one later with a Toyota one($40). And Oreilly has a limited lifetime warranty.

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