I'd agree getting the OEM brake line from the dealer is the easiest. The plastic sheath only helps to protect the double steel brake line meeting SAE standards.
Unless you have experience flaring and bending steel tubing, it's faster just to use a pre-bent OEM line. It's worth it.
Before you remove the line, depress and hold the brake pedal partially so the fluid doesn't drain out completely from the MC, then you'll have an air problem. Remove the stop lamp fuse or disconnect the battery.
Get a quart of Valvoline synthetic brake fluid or Castrol GT LMA (both are low moisture activity fluids).
Get a set of flare nut wrenches like:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-99993.html
Better yet, a set of crowfoot flare with a torque wrench:
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-97952.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...rench-807.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strum
While I search through pages of brake line issues, I figure I would post a specific question in hopes someone might reduce search time:
Rear brake line going from passenger side across to driver side has a severe leak.
Question: It appears that the line coming off where it connects to the brake hose is not metal and there is a section on each end of the metal line where it inserts into the section Is there a way to remove the metal line from the hose (or whatever the material is) without having to replace the entire line? What I am trying to avoid is running a line all the way to the front.
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