Engine Mounts(video)

[pmesfun]

Now that the year is almost over I am trying to take care of all the little problems while I have access to the equipment and tools.

The engine mounts don't look good in the video. The rear mount is definitely bad, but I'm not sure if the front is too.

You Tube

You Tube

IIRC the rear engine mount is a pain to do.

[projektvertx]

Holy batman! You definitely have a bad rear mount!!! The procedure should be the same as mine. The bracket that has that mount also acts as an carrier for the axle bearing. You are going to have to remove the inner part of the axle, remove the mounting bracket which holds the mount, and press the old mount out. Have you checked the trans mount and the dog bone mount for any signs of cracking/defects?

EDIT: Depending on how long the rear mount has been that way, the front hydraulic mount could be bad. Considering it's a 150$ part from online dealers, I would change the rear one and see if it still behaves the same way.

[pmesfun]

Yeah, that is what I thought, sigh. There is also clunk whenever shifting to Reverse from any other gear. The dog bone mount and trans. mount are still good, no cracks or rips in either.

Also depending on the road surface I am driving on, if I let go of the throttle or get back on there are small clunks. This is only under 45mph, above 45mph if I let go of throttle the rpms will dip real quick and come back up. I think its because the engine is moving so much. For this I literally checked everything, no vacuum leaks, transmission shifts smith as butter, fluid is red and replaced the egr position sensor.


So I should replace the rear mount first, if so I will be rebooting the passenger axle at the same time since the power steering leak weakened the inner boot. Thank god the mount is only $36.89 at my dealer. I think thats the right one, 12371-0A020?

[JohnGD]

Are you going to be using OEM cv boots? I wonder if the new ones are updated to plastic or not.

Check out what this owner did changing the mount in place, but looks like if you have a press at school then take advantage of it.

V6 1MZ-FE Rear Engine Motor Mount Insitu Replacement Procedure

Originally Posted by pmesfun

So I should replace the rear mount first, if so I will be rebooting the passenger axle at the same time since the power steering leak weakened the inner boot. Thank god the mount is only $36.89 at my dealer. I think thats the right one, 12371-0A020?

[pmesfun]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Are you going to be using OEM cv boots? I wonder if the new ones are updated to plastic or not.

Check out what this owner did changing the mount in place, but looks like if you have a press at school then take advantage of it.

V6 1MZ-FE Rear Engine Motor Mount Insitu Replacement Procedure

Yes, plastic?

I just read that earlier, I don't want to remove all that stuff again. I'm guessing you don't have to do that if you remove the axle and complete mount.

Will the intermediate shaft have to be remove also?

Any other hardware I should replace besides the axle nut?

[projektvertx]

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Yes, plastic?

I just read that earlier, I don't want to remove all that stuff again. I'm guessing you don't have to do that if you remove the axle and complete mount.

Will the intermediate shaft have to be remove also?

Any other hardware I should replace besides the axle nut?

All you need to remove is the CV halfshaft

[pmesfun]

Sweet.

[JohnGD]

GM and GKN (mostly European cars) have been using hard thermoplastic boots instead of rubber boots. These are thin, lightweight boots that are supposed to last a lot longer but feel more like hard plastic egg shells. Just wondering when Toyota may be migrating these boots to thermoplastic if ever.

Good time to do wheel bearings and ball joints BTW. Maybe the intermedia shaft bearing too. You might want to get a new hub with new studs if the Avalon has been running on hubs instead of bearings. Otherwise reuse hubs and put new studs on there, about $2/piece Dorman. Change out the axle seals at the differential too, but if you're careful removing the axles then they should still be good and soft. ATF will drain out of there. New cotter pins of course. Depending on rust the axle nut retainer (castle shell).

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Yes, plastic?

I just read that earlier, I don't want to remove all that stuff again. I'm guessing you don't have to do that if you remove the axle and complete mount.

Will the intermediate shaft have to be remove also?

Any other hardware I should replace besides the axle nut?

[pmesfun]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

GM and GKN (mostly European cars) have been using hard thermoplastic boots instead of rubber boots. These are thin, lightweight boots that are supposed to last a lot longer but feel more like hard plastic egg shells. Just wondering when Toyota may be migrating these boots to thermoplastic if ever.

Good time to do wheel bearings and ball joints BTW. Maybe the intermedia shaft bearing too. You might want to get a new hub with new studs if the Avalon has been running on hubs instead of bearings. Otherwise reuse hubs and put new studs on there, about $2/piece Dorman. Change out the axle seals at the differential too, but if you're careful removing the axles then they should still be good and soft. ATF will drain out of there. New cotter pins of course. Depending on rust the axle nut retainer (castle shell).

Oh ok, I understand now.

Haha I can't do anything besides what is needed now, my dad kinda lost his patience if I can put it that way.

Castle shell still has its golden new looking color I guess, no rust down here.
Wheel bearing are still good I think, the car can roll forever if I'm coasting. Hell, I replaced the control arm right after I got home, everything was just warm to the touch and that was highway and 5 miles of city driving.
So cotter pins, axle nuts, boot kit comes with new clamps.

[cf99]

Wow!
Did it break from rust or just something you can expect to eventually happen with age?

Can't tell for sure from the video, what's the smoking that starts around the 30 second mark?

[pmesfun]

I live in Texas, there is absolutely no rust on my car, lol. The mount is bad with age, like the control arm I just replaced.

Yes that is smoke, I was cleaning some crud on the front of the engine. Tomorrow is the under body, fun.

[cf99]

Originally Posted by pmesfun

I live in Texas, there is absolutely no rust on my car, lol.

I've only been to Texas once, to Houston, many years ago. The whole city smelled like Pine-Sol...the airport, restaurants, gas stations, my hotel...everywhere. The humidity was nasty. So I guess that's the impression of Texas I'm left with

[pmesfun]

Originally Posted by cf99

I've only been to Texas once, to Houston, many years ago. The whole city smelled like Pine-Sol...the airport, restaurants, gas stations, my hotel...everywhere. The humidity was nasty. So I guess that's the impression of Texas I'm left with

Yes, Houston is a nasty place, we go at least once a year. We have alot of family there(my parents used to live there). You just feel like shit there, its almost impossible to do anything because its so hot and humid. The roads are just as bad as the drivers too.

[slavie]

I actually just had my engine mounts replaced last month in my 99 Camry 4cyl. They seems to be worn out with age. Mine bit the dust at 97k.

Basically, the rear one is supposed to be "hydraulic" and the front one is just rubber. Or so my mechanic told me. The rear one on eBay cost like $45 for rubber one, and $55 for hydraulic one, so your choice.

Like I said, I did not replace them myself, so cannot comment on that. Though the front one looks easy to replace, so I'd suggest changing them both while you're at it. The front one can be had for like $35.

Hope this helps, and good luck!

[JohnGD]

ok hehe. Consider leaving the inner joint tulip on the car then. Just cutting off the bands and removing the shaft and outer joint from it. Autozone has the loaner crimping tool you'd need. (band type and Oetiker type).

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Haha I can't do anything besides what is needed now, my dad kinda lost his patience if I can put it that way.

Castle shell still has its golden new looking color I guess, no rust down here.
Wheel bearing are still good I think, the car can roll forever if I'm coasting. Hell, I replaced the control arm right after I got home, everything was just warm to the touch and that was highway and 5 miles of city driving.
So cotter pins, axle nuts, boot kit comes with new clamps.