3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I called the Toyota dealer today to setup an appointment for the maintenance service. They recommended I get the spark plugs replaced due to the age of the car. The car only has 74,000km on it. The Toyota website says they don't need to be replaced until 96,000km.
Should I replace them due to the car being 10 years old? They have never been replaced yet.
How would I know if they are bad? The car runs fine. What would happen if I waited until 96,000km (another 2 years as I don't drive it much)?
The car may run rough, sluggish or have increased emissions. The only way is to pull them, check the gap and "read the plugs". See the following FAQ on how to "read" a plug:
You can probably wait without problems. The plug may become more difficult to remove with time because of galvanic corrosion, but shouldn't be a problem. If you plan to change them yourself I'd use NGK Iridium-IX, a dab of antiseize 3 threads away from the tip (even with plated plugs like NGK) and torqued to 18 Nm.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
$270CDN is about $283USD. Here in the US we can buy 6 NGK Iridium-IX for about $40USD plus shipping. Dealer will charge x2 for parts, so that means $200 for labor. IMO it's steep.
If Canadian 1MZs also use a waste spark system (no coils in the rear bank and therefore no need to remove the intake plenum) then you should be able to change all 6 plugs in about 30 minutes if mechanically inclined. Unless you have arms thick like PopEye.
Quote:
Originally Posted by duffer649
Toyota's charge for spark plug replacement is $270 Canadian. Is it normal to be that high?
I read some stuff about the V6 and it being hard to replace them. I don't know if this is true though.
I had to change one spark plug @ 99k for my 2001 camry v6 le...
The check engine light came on after I accelerated abruptly one day ... got the code checked from autozone and it said the Number 2 was faulty and I changed it....
I say you can still go upto 90k without changing.... But yeah.... taking that intake out and changing the plugs should be costly if u cant do it yourself....
Shops take standard labor times out of a book. That's what they charge even if it doesn't take them that long. A tech can make 100-120 hours per week. You can always ask for a discount. If doing your own is out of the question (or finding a knowledgeable friend who can help) then just let the dealer or a reputable shop do it at a later time.
If you don't mind at least trying, you can start by trying to feel the 3 wire boots on the rear bank by reaching for two from the left (driver side) and one from the right (passenger side) while the engine is cool. If your hands can reach them that's a good start. No need to remove anything for now, but at least you know you can reach them for starters. The front banks are easy to get to they shouldn't charge more than 10 minutes to change the 3 up front, and that's working slow.
Shops take standard labor times out of a book. That's what they charge even if it doesn't take them that long. A tech can make 100-120 hours per week. You can always ask for a discount. If doing your own is out of the question (or finding a knowledgeable friend who can help) then just let the dealer or a reputable shop do it at a later time.
If you don't mind at least trying, you can start by trying to feel the 3 wire boots on the rear bank by reaching for two from the left (driver side) and one from the right (passenger side) while the engine is cool. If your hands can reach them that's a good start. No need to remove anything for now, but at least you know you can reach them for starters. The front banks are easy to get to they shouldn't charge more than 10 minutes to change the 3 up front, and that's working slow.
i just changed 6 spark plug on my 99 v6, the front 3 are easy, but rear 3 are harder, too me a good 30 minutes to finish all 6 spark unplugs, but my hands and arms ended up with a few scratches, i use the 3/8" extension in length of 2" 4" and 6" long, along with the swiwal joint. for the rear, near driver side one, i have to climb to the top of the engine, and use fish the extension with swival joint through the intake plenum, extend it to the top of the engine, the swival joint helped a lot, other wise, there is no room to put the rachet handle behind the intake plenum. the other two near can be done easier from passenger side.
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