3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have a bit of a problem. My passenger side window is stuck rolled totally down. When I try pressing the switch, the motor makes what I would describe as a grinding noise. It will run (and grind) for about 10-15 seconds, then it sounds as if it runs out of power and just suddenly stops.
This is a big problem, however, because we're getting a lot of rains out here and I need the window to be up.
After searching and reading several threads here, I've decided that it isn't a difficult fix at all and that I will be buying the complete regulator kit on ebay or at advance auto when I go there later on today.
My question is, what can I do to roll the window up in the meantime, seeing as it will probably be a few days before I can get to replacing the regulator?
Do I need to completely take the panel apart in order to force the window up? In which case, I might as well just replace it while I'm in there.
If you take off the inner panel, that'll give you access to the two nuts holding the window to the regulator. Remove them and that'll allow you to lift the window and tape it up in the closed position. Then just leave the inner panel off until you get the new regulator.
That's what I'd do.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Or you can manually turn the actuator to push it up. It sounds as if your teeth for the regulator is gone or the teeth on the line that controls it is gone.
Do what BMR told you to do. Just an FYI be careful pulling stuff apart. Hidden screws galore and be careful taking the control panel for that door off. It will run a pretty penny if you accidentally break something on it. The window components are behind a water guard on the door sealing water out so make sure you dont destroy that too.
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'02 Toyota Tundra iForce V8 TRD AC THUNDER "FRACKING" GREY METALLIC 97000 miles
If you take off the inner panel, that'll give you access to the two nuts holding the window to the regulator. Remove them and that'll allow you to lift the window and tape it up in the closed position. Then just leave the inner panel off until you get the new regulator.
That's what I'd do.
Safe bet, Exactly what I had to do on mine. Since I'm reasonably certain for me its both motor and regulator and/or a bad connection somewhere in the DS door. At one point I couldn't get it to close and ended up getting frustrated and just found a good DIY video on how to remove my door panel. Its really touchy to do but definitely beats paying someone to take the door apart.
Thanks for the advice guys. I wound up taking the door panel off, disconnecting the window from the regulator, and just taping it up to the top of the door. From start to finish, took about 20 minutes, though I did manage to crack the trim around the door handle.
After I got the panel off, I discovered what had happened. The wires had gotten caught in the capstan, gotten it stuck, and caused the entire regulator to fail. I'll have to buy a whole new kit now.
It appears the only complete kits on ebay run about $70. I was seeing $35 quoted in some of the other threads I linked. Is that just what they're going for now?
I ordered one online from 1aauto.com in Dec. - can't remember how I found them - might have been via amazon. Anyway it was for a 1996 camry driver side front. it was $63, free shipping. As I recall I saw something in a review at their site about the motor being quiet. And although it was more $$ I decided to go with them for that reason - last thing I wanted was to get the job done then have a noise issue with the new motor. So, for what that's worth.
BTW this past year has been nothing but door issues - I've heard when Camrys get this age, that starts happening. I've had to replace 3 interior latches, various bezels, the driver's door window regulator, the exterior latch on the driver's door (it just broke off in my hand one morning, and I'm a tiny gal), and one month after that, the door lock cylinder on the driver's door. I think the front passenger window regulator is going to be next. gad!
Yeah you have to be easy on these older cars. When I was younger I broke the passenger door handle on my Dad's 88 Acura Legend and it was metal lol. I was like 12 years old.
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