Rear seal replacement 95 Camry 4cyl Auto.

[ldballoon4]

Im about to have my rear seal replaced in my 1995 Camry(285k!), by a reputable shop. She runs solid and only has this problem. I would like to get another year of use, or more, if possible after this repair- $680.00 vs the dealers $1250.

I have a few questions:

Should I replace the motor mounts too? How many are there?
Besides the main seal, are there any other seals I should replace while the engine is out?
Another things I'm missing?
Tips suggestions?

Thanks

[bronzemaxell]

Originally Posted by ldballoon4

Im about to have my rear seal replaced in my 1995 Camry(285k!), by a reputable shop. She runs solid and only has this problem. I would like to get another year of use, or more, if possible after this repair- $680.00 vs the dealers $1250.

I have a few questions:

Should I replace the motor mounts too? How many are there?
Besides the main seal, are there any other seals I should replace while the engine is out?
Another things I'm missing?
Tips suggestions?

Thanks

i am not sure if they need to pull both cv axle out of the differential, if they do, then consider replace the axle seal, round $7 to $10 each from online toyota dealer, $19 if you were to walk in to stealership's part dept.

[JohnGD]

How's the condition of the dog bone (torque strut) rubber? How's the engine movement when shifting into D/R? This will help determine if you need to change the mounts if you plan to keep the car just one more year or slightly longer.

That said, if they pull the engine then it's a good time to change the rear engine mount too. It's much harder to get to otherwise. But since one failing mount can damage others, I'd just do the two main ones (front hydraulic mount and rear engine mount), the "dog bone" torque strut on the passenger side strut tower, and the transmission mount on the driver side subframe.

Reseal the oil pan. Fel-Pro cork-rubber gasket or Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Copper RTV. There is always the Toyota OEM FIPG too. Check the valve cover gasket.

Since the input end of the transmission is accessible, consider the ATF pump seal (behind the torque converter). This seal can leak if the torque converter is left on the transmission for a while. For about $3 (online) I'd just change it while in there.

I'm not sure you want to work on the timing components at this time. But these aren't difficult to get to once the engine is installed back in the car. However this is getting involved. The oil pump housing to block joint should be check for leaks.

Originally Posted by ldballoon4

Im about to have my rear seal replaced in my 1995 Camry(285k!), by a reputable shop. She runs solid and only has this problem. I would like to get another year of use, or more, if possible after this repair- $680.00 vs the dealers $1250.

I have a few questions:

Should I replace the motor mounts too? How many are there?
Besides the main seal, are there any other seals I should replace while the engine is out?
Another things I'm missing?
Tips suggestions?

Thanks

[ldballoon4]

Yes the dog bone is def cracked. I actually do not know the status of the rear mount, The front was done 2 years ago and still is fine.
Oil pump seal. Ok.

[ldballoon4]

How about a transmission drain or flush? Last time that was done was 168K.

[JohnGD]

Ok, definitely replace the dog bone then. And do the rear mount while at it. Get an OEM mount if you can. Anchor rear mount is only like $50 on rockauto, but not sure how good they are as a main mount (I have used Beck Arnley and Anchor dog bones because they are locally available and needed them fast).

It's the ATF oil pump seal behind the torque converter, just wanting to make sure, not the engine oil pump seal.

And sure you can have the shop remove the converter and drain it. Drop the pan, clean off the debris and change the strainer too. Don't forget the differential fluid too (often neglected). Once they remove the converter the oil seal is right there. Then have them fill up the converter with new ATF before install. You'll change most of the fluid this way. You can pick up a case of SuperTech Mercon-V or Castrol Import Multivehicle ATF from Walmart if they have that many. And keep the rest for a PS flush later:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html

Originally Posted by ldballoon4

Yes the dog bone is def cracked. I actually do not know the status of the rear mount, The front was done 2 years ago and still is fine.
Oil pump seal. Ok.

[Mister_Perkins]

To answer your question, there are 4 mounts. Dogbone, Transmission mount, front and rear mounts.

I would replace all four of them if I were you since the motor will be out. Easiest time to do it.

Check the Power steering rack for leakage as well, and check the pump for leakage as well. Pretty much, have anything repaired that will be a pain in the ass to replace with the motor in the car.

Timing seals, Rack repair, inner tie-rods, Freeze plugs, old vacuum lines, etc..

dont forget to drain / refill the torque converter and replace the seal as this will be the best time to do so.

Sorry if i re-wrote anyones suggestions. I didnt read anything besides the OP's lol

[ldballoon4]

Thanks everyone. My car will be in the shop tomorrow. Hopefully, the leak stops! I will update this thread after the repair is done.