HELP!! Crankbolt Stuck!

[funkclown]

Ok so here is the situation..

This past Monday I started to change the upper idler on my 3VZ. I was going to try and fit a subaru one (i work at a subi dealership) to try and save money. Well it was just a hair smaller and the bolt size was smaller as well so it wouldn't work. I then just ordered an oem one. Well I was trying to just slide the belt on over the pulley without taking off the belt and it jumped :/

Now i have to take apart the whole timing assembly, I have everything off except the crank pulley. The specs for it say to torque the bolt to 181 ft/lbs. I tried using a small impact gun that maxes out at 90 ft/lbs and that didn't work. So then I went to work and got my MG725 which is the biggest one they make. It puts out 810 ft/lbs and the bolt still wont even budge!!

So do you guys have any ideas on what I should do?

[pmesfun]

Use the starter bump method. I put a breaker bar against the control arm, lowered the car until the bar was tight between the arm and floor then blipped the starter a few times and it was loose.

[Mister_Perkins]

If all else fails, use Oxygen / Acetylene torches and heat up the Crankshaft area (around the bolt)... let it cool completely, then try it. If it doesnt work Repeat the process. It will come off

[pmesfun]

Make sure you remove the EFI fuse btw, lol.

[fenixus]

I have yet to see where the start blip method with the 2ft long breaker bar doesn't work

[MR2Jedi]

Originally Posted by fenixus

I have yet to see where the start blip method with the 2ft long breaker bar doesn't work

Ditto That! My crankshaft pulley is torqued only at 80ft/lbs. I couldn't get the bolt off for nothin'. The start blip did it easily.

[fenixus]

yup, 5s-fe crank bolt torque per FSM is 80ft-lbs, of course it will be much more to remove that thing if it was never touched. however later when re-installing it 80ft-lbs is all it needs.

[iinh3]

Another vote for the starter blip method. I used it and secured the breaker bar to the car with some #9 wire. It worked like a charm.

[funkclown]

all done! thanks guys for your input!

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by funkclown

all done! thanks guys for your input!

Glad it worked

[roach4047]

Just curious....Are the crank bolts reverse threaded or are they the typical righty tighty setup? I've never had to remove one so I have no clue.


Roach

[pmesfun]

typical setup.

[SilverSoarer]

Originally Posted by funkclown

Ok so here is the situation..

This past Monday I started to change the upper idler on my 3VZ. I was going to try and fit a subaru one (i work at a subi dealership) to try and save money. Well it was just a hair smaller and the bolt size was smaller as well so it wouldn't work. I then just ordered an oem one. Well I was trying to just slide the belt on over the pulley without taking off the belt and it jumped :/

Now i have to take apart the whole timing assembly, I have everything off except the crank pulley. The specs for it say to torque the bolt to 181 ft/lbs. I tried using a small impact gun that maxes out at 90 ft/lbs and that didn't work. So then I went to work and got my MG725 which is the biggest one they make. It puts out 810 ft/lbs and the bolt still wont even budge!!

So do you guys have any ideas on what I should do?

You need 6 CFM @ 90 PSI for 8 seconds to get that crankshaft bolt off - most compressors sold for the average DIYer cannot provide that output.

[dave1811]

I had my Ingersol Rand impact set at around 100 PSI with a Porter Cable pancake compressor putting out around 2.5 CFM and mine came off like a piece of cake when I did my timing belt job a few months ago... Maybe it wasn't on as tight, I don't know. I definitely need a bigger compressor though......

Dave