95 Passenger side cv axle - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

markdunn99 · 05-14-2011, 04:34 PM

Ok....I've read up on all the tips for removing the passenger side cv axle and I've seen the youtube video about cutting the shaft and then removing the entire carrier mount along with the axle. I've been pounding on it for weeks off and on and I can't get it out so I think I'm going to have to resort to cutting it. But here's my question....if you cut the shaft how can you remove the piece remaining that goes into the differential? You won't have anything to grip or to pull on to force it out and overcome the circlip. The video I saw didn't show how to get that remaining piece out. Any other tips before I resort to cutting would be appreciated as well. I actually don't think mine is stuck at the bearing carrier...I can feel and see it moving in that area. I think the problem is just getting it out of the differential. There's just no good way to get any leverage to pull it straight out. I've tried the autozone slide hammer and claw attachment to no avail. Thanks

71Corolla · 05-14-2011, 08:12 PM

If you remove the entire mount, you don't need to cut anything, as you can withdraw the entire assembly. Seeing as you've tried freeing the bearing from the carrier housing without success, it's probably best to just remove the thing as one piece. But you will need to lift the engine up a few inches, otherwise it is much harder, if not impossible. Once the carrier assembly is free, you will have the movement and weight of the unit to overcome the circlip.

edit - I remembered that it depends how high you are able to lift the engine, if you can't lift it enough to clear the motor mount bolts, then you will have to cut the axle. An angle grinder makes the job easy, just make sure you wear eye protection, and wear heavy gloves! A grinding wheel going into your hand will cause serious damage.

This video shows a guy that cuts the axle, don't do what he did wear gloves.

You Tube

markdunn99 · 05-14-2011, 08:59 PM

[Right...thanks...I didn't figure I could lift the engine enough and that's why you need to cut the axle. I've seen that video....I'm not worried about cutting it but my concern is after cutting it how can I remove the remaining axle piece from the differential since there will be nothing to pull on...just the straight piece of axle shaft itself with nothing to grip or take hold of in order to yank it out past the circlip. My one other concern is getting at one of the bolts that holds the motor mount in....looks like it is fairly hidden beneath the "tulip" end of the axle and I don't know if I can get a wrench on it? Oh well..I'll just take my time and figure it out somehow...it's a spare car for me right now...just working on it as I have time....picked it up for only 600 bucks...other than the differential seal leaking it runs and drives perfectly fine...I'll do a little work on it and then my son can have it if he gets his license soon. Thanks for the help

QUOTE=71Corolla;3564624]If you remove the entire mount, you don't need to cut anything, as you can withdraw the entire assembly. Seeing as you've tried freeing the bearing from the carrier housing without success, it's probably best to just remove the thing as one piece. But you will need to lift the engine up a few inches, otherwise it is much harder, if not impossible. Once the carrier assembly is free, you will have the movement and weight of the unit to overcome the circlip.

edit - I remembered that it depends how high you are able to lift the engine, if you can't lift it enough to clear the motor mount bolts, then you will have to cut the axle. An angle grinder makes the job easy, just make sure you wear eye protection, and wear heavy gloves! A grinding wheel going into your hand will cause serious damage.

This video shows a guy that cuts the axle, don't do what he did wear gloves.

You Tube

[/QUOTE]

71Corolla · 05-14-2011, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdunn99

....I'm not worried about cutting it but my concern is after cutting it how can I remove the remaining axle piece from the differential since there will be nothing to pull on...

There is not that much force required to overcome the circlip, vice grips and a hammer will do the job. Worst case if you can grind a slot into the shaft and put vice grips on that so it doesn't slip when hammering. You can always carefully pry between the transmission and the axle dust shield, you'll bend the shield but it doesn't matter.

A couple of bolts are a bit tight but with some patience you'll get them out. And that's the main thing, don't rush and start stripping bolts, take your time and make sure your wrench and socket is getting a good grip.

markdunn99 · 06-08-2011, 07:00 PM

just getting to working on this axle some more. Absolutely no way to get a socket on that one bolt holding the mount on....it's underneath the tulip and there is not room to get a socket on it at all....not even close. You can barely get a box wrench end on it but there isn't any room to turn it without it slipping off because it hits the oil pan. If you're looking from the front of the car it would be the lower left bolt on the carrier mount. I've taken to grinding off a piece of the tulip hoping that will give me room to get a socket on that bolt....but that's a job in and of itself...not a lot of room in there for my angle grinder. So I'm hoping that will work otherwise I'm pretty much at a loss. Oh well...at least I've got all the time in the world..it's just a spare car for me. Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71Corolla

There is not that much force required to overcome the circlip, vice grips and a hammer will do the job. Worst case if you can grind a slot into the shaft and put vice grips on that so it doesn't slip when hammering. You can always carefully pry between the transmission and the axle dust shield, you'll bend the shield but it doesn't matter.

A couple of bolts are a bit tight but with some patience you'll get them out. And that's the main thing, don't rush and start stripping bolts, take your time and make sure your wrench and socket is getting a good grip.

ycartf · 06-08-2011, 07:14 PM

Have you tried a combination of penetrant, a torch, and the tool I use in this tutorial? It was a fight but finally broke free for me.

http://www.tracystruesoaps.com/tutor...en4cvpass.html

markdunn99 · 06-08-2011, 07:18 PM

Hi....I saw your post a while ago and read it over several times. I don't have a torch but I did work on it for many many hours with penetrant and that exact same tool that you show....it never budged.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ycartf

Have you tried a combination of penetrant, a torch, and the tool I use in this tutorial? It was a fight but finally broke free for me.

http://www.tracystruesoaps.com/tutor...en4cvpass.html

ycartf · 06-08-2011, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdunn99

Hi....I saw your post a while ago and read it over several times. I don't have a torch but I did work on it for many many hours with penetrant and that exact same tool that you show....it never budged.

Well I'll tell ya, the torch was the biggest help. I pounded and pounded with that tool and slide hammer, but the heating of that housing until I could hear the grease popping was what made all the difference.

astatcamry956 · 06-08-2011, 11:31 PM

i changed my cv joint boot from passenger side not that long ago, it wasnt so hard to come off.?

71Corolla · 06-08-2011, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by astatcamry956

i changed my cv joint boot from passenger side not that long ago, it wasnt so hard to come off.?

Depends on the extent of rust in the carrier. I did one where the bearing was seized to an insane degree. I heated the thing repeatedly, and pounded the end of the shaft on a solid piece of concrete, and still required many tries to finally free the bearing. It took tremendous force, something you would never be able to exert when the thing is still on the car.

markdunn99 · 06-09-2011, 08:12 AM

What kind of a "torch" did you use? Is a small propane type thing with map gas adequate to heat it enough?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ycartf

Well I'll tell ya, the torch was the biggest help. I pounded and pounded with that tool and slide hammer, but the heating of that housing until I could hear the grease popping was what made all the difference.

ycartf · 06-09-2011, 03:37 PM

A small propane one I bought in a kit with a screw-on tip and a bottle about the size of a big thermos.

bronzemaxell · 06-09-2011, 08:30 PM

two months ago, i was trying to remove the passenger side cv axle for a 94 v6 le, intend to remove the entire axle, and replace cv axle seal at once due to bad cv joint, bought the cv axle puller and slide hammer from auto zone, spray a lot of liquid wrench, pb blaster, wont' come out, use homedepot torch with yellow can, wont' come out, attempted to remove the rear engine mount, 4 bolts, the one outter buttom bolts has no room to put a socket in, tried an offset 14mm wrench, loosen just a bit, but maybe my wrench too weak, i can feel the handle start to twist, so i ended up just unbolt the 6 hex bolt at intermediate shaft of the axle, separated the axle, and put the new 1/2 axle in.

markdunn99 · 06-20-2011, 09:25 AM

I finally go the CV shaft out by cutting it and removing the entire bearing mount. The bearing was really seized inside the carrier...took a lot of blows with a sledge to get it out...no way I could have exerted that much force with it still in the car. So I got a replacement shaft at autozone but when I got home and started comparing it to the old one it's not the same....the one in my car is a little thicker and a little longer in overall length....now I'm gonna have to struggle to find the right replacement! Anyone have any suggestions or a link to order one online somewhere? I assume they're probably different based on what transmission is in the car, or perhaps the one Autozone gave me is for a 4 cylinder instead of a 6 which is what I have? How do I know which model transmission is in the car? Thanks for any help...

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

two months ago, i was trying to remove the passenger side cv axle for a 94 v6 le, intend to remove the entire axle, and replace cv axle seal at once due to bad cv joint, bought the cv axle puller and slide hammer from auto zone, spray a lot of liquid wrench, pb blaster, wont' come out, use homedepot torch with yellow can, wont' come out, attempted to remove the rear engine mount, 4 bolts, the one outter buttom bolts has no room to put a socket in, tried an offset 14mm wrench, loosen just a bit, but maybe my wrench too weak, i can feel the handle start to twist, so i ended up just unbolt the 6 hex bolt at intermediate shaft of the axle, separated the axle, and put the new 1/2 axle in.

***Mister_Perkins*** · 06-20-2011, 10:44 AM

I dont understand why that guy in the video didnt set that Bearing into the motor mount outside of the car? What if the Splines dont match up on the Axle > Transmission? You can risk causing some spline damage doing it that way.

I would recommend putting the motor mount in a vise and setting the bearing before installing it into the transmission. That way you can slide the splines together easily, and then just install the motor mount bolts.

The 6 Cyl. Camry has a A541E Transmission
The 4 Cyl. Camry has a A140E Transmission

Depending on what engine you have, you need the axles for that transmission. So if you have a 4cylinder, you need 4cylinder axles, with the 6, u need the axles for a 6cyl.