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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 05-22-2011, 11:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
96 3MZ M/T
 
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clutch bleeding

omfg i am having uber clutch issues

so far

new gen 4 slave
new gen 4 master

i bleed the system by vacuum, pumping it 80 times, hold, and opening the valve with the vacuum to make sure it doesnt pull anything back in when i close the valve, pumping it 5 times, hold, open with vacuum, left it open at the master for 2 hours keeping it full, left it open at the slave for 2 hours keeping it full, left it open with vacuum for an hour, left it for 36 hours closed which seemed to work the best because now i push all the way down on the clutch for enough that it's parked on a hill so the car kinda slightly rolls back now but not fully disengaging.

so right now it's sitting out side with the vacuum on it bleeding keeping it full, going to try this for the next hour and see what happens.

any ideas?
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Old 05-22-2011, 12:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like a super complicated way to bleed it. Why not just try the tried and true two person method? One pumps five times, holds, the others open the bleeder screw and closes. Repeat.

Check for leaks especially where the hard line meets the rubber line on top of the transmission. I had huuuuge problems at this intersection.

Maybe it's a pressure plate issue? I know my Advance auto parts clutch kit would not work. I put two of those in the camry in a day, both had pressure and disengagement issues due to the crappy PP they use. I ordered a Sach's clutch kit online for cheaper than advance's crap ass kit and it works wonderfully. I just wish I would have used my ACT PP instead.... I miss the heavy PP....
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Old 05-22-2011, 01:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hose is fine it's an ss line with no breaks, i did do the 2 person with the vacuum pump, i'm thinking it might be a bent fork or pp issue now, but the spec pp should be better than this but i cant work on the car is my problem.

do anyone know how far the salve should be pushing out?
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Old 05-22-2011, 04:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I've got a fork from a 97 5sfe that's in perfect condition for sale. I thought mine was the fork too and it turned out to be the PP, so I replaced it and it didnt change anything.
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Old 05-22-2011, 04:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i'm just buying a new/used e153 when i get to toronto, already sourced it and my cus is helping me swap it in, just going to suck driving there with diminished clutch quality. but still open to any tips or advice on how i can hopfuly get more throw in this. so a slightly dead s54 for sale any takers?
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Have you adjusted the pedal at all? Is this after a new clutch? Or just starting happening randomly?

You could also get a longer pushrod for the slave cylinder.
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Old 05-22-2011, 06:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well i notice that it was getting harder to throw out the clutch so i adjusted the pedal, by rasing it, the rod length maxed out, worked for about 3 weeks then crapped out, so i replaced both master and slave, it is still adjusted maxed out for maximum push

the longer push rod is only 1/4" longer mine is actually 1/2" longer over stock (custom made)

i think i'm going to try and tie a bungie cord around the frame and to the fork to help pull it when the clutch is engaged
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Old 05-22-2011, 06:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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well bungie failed

any more ideas?
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Last edited by chronoti; 05-22-2011 at 07:24 PM.
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