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Old 05-23-2011, 08:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cooling system problem

Hi guys, I have a 92 Camry DLX 5SFE and changed the radiator today (new Koyo brand) the process took me about an hour and a half, I was so glad and didn't realized how easy it is to do. But during the burping process, the radiator started to spew coolant after 5 minutes. I changed the thermostat and the problem still persist.

So what's next???

Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Did you use an OEM or "OE type" thermostat with a jiggle valve? If so a good amount of the air should be out of the block as you refilled. Like this $11 one with gasket:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1145694

Were you able to refill pretty much all the amount you drained out? If so just put the rad cap back on there, run the engine until the radiator fan comes on once or twice (boils out the air in the coolant too). And let the system cool down for a few hours (best overnight) so the coolant contracts. Then fill up the radiator.

The coolant should drop a little initially as the pump starts to operate but will expand and start coming out of the radiator neck. So you will have a short time to put maybe another 1/2 pint in there and cap it. On some engines (like domestic 3.8L) you can leave the cap half tightened and watch the reservoir bubble as it bleeds. It's fun to watch. Looks like the fill tool does the same thing (I've not used it before however).




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Originally Posted by wave180 View Post
Hi guys, I have a 92 Camry DLX 5SFE and changed the radiator today (new Koyo brand) the process took me about an hour and a half, I was so glad and didn't realized how easy it is to do. But during the burping process, the radiator started to spew coolant after 5 minutes. I changed the thermostat and the problem still persist.

So what's next???

Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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not sure if it works on gen3, but surely does it work on gen4

top it off (also keep the return tank at FULL mark for now), close the rad cap, keep the heater turned on to full blast, keep squeezing the upper rad hose from time to time to see if there is pressure build up in it, let the engine run until it warms up fully (watch the coolant temp gauge on dash, if overheating occurs shut it down).
once warmed up and rad fans turn twice, shut the car off and let it cool down.

then simply open the rad cap to let the pressurized air out and top off the rad and return coolant tank again, close it, drive it locally and leave over night. check for air under rad cap again in morning and top off if needed, engine may suck all the coolant from return tank over night (happened to me on 5s-fe, while 1mz-fe sucked only a little).

no need for special tools or messy bleeding or special funnels.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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@ John, I was using the superstat without the jiggle valve. When I changed the rad this afternoon, I put the one from motorad now with jiggle valve. Now back to superstat.

@ Feniux, I did your method, but with the open cap and it WORKED!!! yey! While filling up the radiator I squeezed hard () the upper radiator hose many times until I barely see bubbles coming out.

Thank you very much gents for the help.

It's 8PM now in Cali, I can now sleep good later.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Well, actually it's better with the jiggle valve. But if the cooling system is burped then you're golden.


[QUOTE=wave180;3572266]@ John, I was using the superstat without the jiggle valve. When I changed the rad this afternoon, I put the one from motorad now with jiggle valve. Now back to superstat. /QUOTE]
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah, I was told that jiggle valve is a good thing and I stick with only such thermostats (using only OEM on those)

however as above if the one without it works for you then all right!

open the rad cap in morning though and double check coolant level under it (and in return tank). my 5s-fe was sucking some coolant from return tank for 2 nights after flush

1mz-fe is much easier in that matter (design of system is less prone to collection of air pockets when filling up I guess)
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenixus View Post
yeah, I was told that jiggle valve is a good thing and I stick with only such thermostats (using only OEM on those)

however as above if the one without it works for you then all right!

open the rad cap in morning though and double check coolant level under it (and in return tank). my 5s-fe was sucking some coolant from return tank for 2 nights after flush

1mz-fe is much easier in that matter (design of system is less prone to collection of air pockets when filling up I guess)
Thanks, I will open and check every thing tomorrow. I might going to get a thermostat from the dealer next week as I ran out of coolant during burping and put about half gallon of distilled water in the rad. Anyway, it was a good learning experience. Thanks again guys.
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If you haven't changed the radiator hoses and the radiator cap, this would be a good time to do it.


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Thanks, I will open and check every thing tomorrow. I might going to get a thermostat from the dealer next week as I ran out of coolant during burping and put about half gallon of distilled water in the rad. Anyway, it was a good learning experience. Thanks again guys.
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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They're fairly new, I might get the cap though. Thanks for the tip.
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