2.2 complete rebuild problems

[rollhardracing]

hi first off let me thank you all in advance for the help that you respond with...

here is the issue...

2.2 engine

i bought this 99 camry le with a bad motor.. i went to the local junk yard and purchased a motor from an identical car. Unfortunately the motor had a very small peck.. first one thing then another and i didnt check it out in the warranty time. last weekend, it spun a rod bearing.

i took the motor out, completely disassembled, and started cleaning everything up. I went and bought a brand new crank kit, with bearings, gaskets, and everything else i should need to just rebuild a new type engine..

first the rings i got for the "99" were wrong. The oil control ring was about a 1/16 to thin. I took them back and the gentleman at the parts warehouse (specialty import parts store, they know their stuff), did some research and found that, the pistons i had, (used the ones from the junkyard engine), were from a mid-90s engine. No biggie, i got the proper rings and back to the shop.

I get the short block assembled, no problem. The junkyard motor (mid 90s according to parts depot) the head was in BAD shape. I had kept the head from the original engine. I looked it over and had it checked, its in near perfect condition.. So i installed it.

Now i have everything completely done, motor in the car and all, the ONLY thing left to do is install the exhaust cam.. EVERYWHERE i look says somethign about an assembly dot, and a timing dot... My intake cam has 3 dots on the back of it, and the exhaust 4 dots on the back of it... WHICH ones do i need to use? (and before you ask, yes, i have a 10mm bolt in the exhaust cam gear.)

I cannot find this information anywhere.

2ndly, i think i seen on here, where the 99 head will not work on a mid 90s engine.. if so why not? they are identical according to my measurements, and what nots.

i think i had seen that just before registering and stuff.. the motor is completely back in the car, all that is left is the exhaust cam, so i hope like heck, there isnt an issue.

thanks and sorry for the long story

tim in knoxville

[71Corolla]

Do the coolant and oil passages match up on the head and block?

Maybe these will help, it's been a long time since I pulled the head on these engines so I don't remember more about it. If you set the knock pins as shown, the cam marks should be close enough where you'll know which ones are correct. BTW, I think the service bolt on the exhaust cam will be at the very top when the marks are lined up correctly.

[Bdpprocessors]

I just rebuilt a 5sfe last week. Just make sure that both pairs of small dots line up ( their 5 teeth apart).

Also make sure you install your distribuiter correctly. ( its offset but will go on both ways so just double check)

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by Bdpprocessors

Also make sure you install your distribuiter correctly. ( its offset but will go on both ways so just double check)

no distributor on gen4, there is only a plastic plug in place where it used to be on gen3.

[rollhardracing]

thank you all for the responses...


First, timing the cams, once it was figured out was quite easy. Now, this motor is kicking my tail. I build race engines for a very HIGH end race engine shop.. I have built more horsepower out of 2 cylinders than most have out of 8. (NHRA pro mod, NHRA Pro Stock, and ADRL Extreme PRO Mod,) This motor is kicking my tail.


Brand new crank kit. Rods had been cleaned and inspected. Pistons cleaned, inspected, new rings.

New rod and main bearings, new rings, all new seals, new head gasket. Took apart the balance box, and inspected, cleaned, lubed and reassembled, took the head apart, cleaned, inspected and reassembled.

Everything was basically professionally done..

Now it knocks louder than it did when it spun a rod bearing.. this thing is knocking SO loud, you cant bare to let it run more than 20-30 seconds for fear of something messing up.

Pulled valve cover, and bolt is out of the exhaust cam (tension spring side).
Pulled rod bearings and they look like they have never been started (with the knock, if it were the rod bearings, id see some transfer, or some markings i would think).
Checked the balance shaft box, and it looks perfect.

It sounds like a rod, or wrist pin.. Is there a size difference between wrist pins, from a mid 90s engine to a 99 engine? i had the original 99 engine, and the engine i had got from a junk yard that spun the rod bearing... I took out of the 7 rods i had, and put the best looking 4 together to make a set, so im wondering and i cant find if there is a wrist pin size difference.. if so, this maybe my problem.. Im using the mid 90s pistons, 3 of the 99 rods, and the lesser of the messed up wrist pins. (or better looking wrist pins)..

Is this my issue?

tim

[mrturrari]

Originally Posted by rollhardracing

Is there a size difference between wrist pins, from a mid 90s engine to a 99 engine? i had the original 99 engine, and the engine i had got from a junk yard that spun the rod bearing... I took out of the 7 rods i had, and put the best looking 4 together to make a set, so im wondering and i cant find if there is a wrist pin size difference.. if so, this maybe my problem.. Im using the mid 90s pistons, 3 of the 99 rods, and the lesser of the messed up wrist pins. (or better looking wrist pins)..

Is this my issue?

tim

Nope. All the S series engines us the same diameter wrist pin.

Things to check:
Did you preload the tenson on the exhaust cam scissor gear?
Did you check valve clearance?
Did you plastiguage your rod and main bearings to make sure the clearances were in spec?

The heads are actually all interchangeable but the internals (cams, valves, buckets, springs) of the early rev1 5sfe (90-92) do not fit into the later ones. If your 5sfe is out of a Camry though it is a rev2.