Camry '97 I4 Oil Pan change, tips or things i should do also when it's off?

[SSteph]

Next oil change I'll have to change my oil pan (badly rusted spots flaking). So i wondered if you would have some tips for me??

Like what's a good brand of pan to get, i expect the car to maybe last another 5-6 years top, it's clean now, it may become the "dirty beater" later on.

What would be good for gasket on it?

While it's out and i have my hands dirty in there, is there some accessible seals or whatever i should do at the same time??

Thanks for your inputs!!

[SSteph]

bumpy!

[JohnGD]

Gasket - Fel-Pro cork rubber tightened with a 1/4" torque wrench. Or Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Copper after make sure the surfaces are clean and dry so the RTV can stick.

[hill8570]

Can't help ya on the pan...I don't live in the rust zone...

Gasket, I'd just use Permatex Black or Toyota FIPG (basically the same thing -- silicone / RTV) -- that's what the factory gasket is.

While you're in there, clean any crap out of the bottom of the pan (if you're changing out the pan, that doesn't really apply). Also check the strainer for the oil pump pickup -- clean or replace if it's looking clogged.

[el_gordo_uno]

Replacing the oil pan can be a total pain. some of the bolts have very little clearance without loosing the exhuast. Serious like 10-15 10mm bolts, I started doing this on my rig but gave up back in october, its still sitting in my garage drained of oil! Haha, the abuse Ive put that poor car through.

[SilverSoarer]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Gasket - Fel-Pro cork rubber tightened with a 1/4" torque wrench. Or Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Copper after make sure the surfaces are clean and dry so the RTV can stick.

1. Does the RTV gasket go between the oil pan to this mating surface ? That is the mating surface between No. 1 oil pan and No. 2 oil pan with drain bolt.



-OR-

2. Does the RTV gasket go on the bottom of the oil pan such as below - and if so - why ?




Reason I ask is that the factory service manual says to apply only to the bottom oil pan [see pic below] -- not on the mating surface but on the U groove around the hex bolt heads that secure the oil pan with drain bolt. This does not seem to make sense because it implies there is no RTV applied to the mating surface between oil pan 1 and oil pan 2 with drain bolt.

FSM:



^^^ There is no mention in the FSM of applying RTV/FIPG/sealant on the mating surface between oil pan 1 and oil pan with drain bolt (oil pan 2). Why ???

[JohnGD]

Yes, for the lower sheet metal pan the RTV will end up between the surfaces of pictures #1 and #2. You can already see seepage/leaks on the shiny aluminum mating surface.

The RTV goes on the sheet metal lower oil pan (picture #2 above) in the groove, except I will also apply it around bolt holes. The reason for the groove in the metal pan is to provide a more substantial cross section of RTV when the metals expand and contract. Too thin a layer will break more easily. BTW, RTV is applied only to one surface. It's whatever surface easier for you to work with. Just make sure both surfaces are clean and dry; otherwise RTV won't stick and you'll end up with a seepage or leak later.

If you already removed the exhaust and the lower pan, I'd go a step further in resealing the upper pan too. RTV will age like rubber gaskets and eventually seep or leak. Just make sure all bolts are removed before you pry.

I use a 1/4" bead of RTV and would use a modified sealing instruction. Basically finger tighten only until the RTV begins to squeeze out (both sealing surfaces now have RTV). Then I'd give it 1-2 hours to dry. And then tighten to the Toyota specified torque. This way it's less likely to squeeze clean out and become too thin. Permatex instruction is for an additional 1/4-1/2 turn after 2 hours. I just take it to specified torque.