First time Camry owner needs help

[Michael W]

A few months ago, I bought a 1993 Camry for my son. Now we're having problems that I can't figure out. I am now at a loss and need some expert help. Here are the details;

Car/engine:
1993 Camry XLE. 3.0L v6, 137K miles

Problem:
While driving the car started to sputter at idle (red lights, stops signs) but would run smooth at higher RPM. After a couple of miles, the car simply stopped. It would turn over, but not start.

After towing it home, I discovered the fuel pump would not turn with the key on. Later troubleshooting revealed no spark, no power leaving the coil.

Troubleshooting/fix actions performed so far:
--With the fuel pump not working, I assumed it was the problem. Replaced fuel pump. Still no good.
--Could get the fuel pump to turn when using a jumper wire to bypass the Open Circuit relay. Replaced Open Circuit relay
--Replaced EFI relay
--Discovered no spark and no power coming from the coil. Replaced Igniter and Coil
--Checked timing belt, all good and everything turns.
--Checked all fuses, all good.

After replacing relays, fuel pump, igniter and coil, the engine still will not start. I was told it could be a bad Crankshaft Position sensor (CKP). Chilton manual says CKP is located to right of water pump, under the alternator. All I can find under there is the temp sensor in the metal part of the coolant tubing. I cannot locate the CKP. (if pictures of what I see in that area would help, I can provide them) Where is the sensor?

Is there anything else I should be looking at that would prevent both spark and fuel? Any help would be greatly appreciated. My son just graduated and needs the car to find a job.

[bigbird]

is the check engine light on?

[fenixus]

to see the CKP you need to remove the lower timing belt cover (crank pulley must come off first). it will be on right of crank shaft. you could probably see a thin black wire going to it, it's clipped to cover down there.

so, is the fuel pump now priming when you turn the ignition key?

make sure the blue 15A EFI fuse is good and sitting securely in socket.

[pmesfun]

Yes, check the CKP sensor.

[pmesfun]

And if the 3vz is like the 1mz, you don't have to remove the crank pulley etc. just the 10mm bolt on the ckp sensor.

[Michael W]

Update:

I do have to remove the pulley to get the lower timing cover off. When trying to get the pulley off, we held the upper cam pulley still and tried to remove the bolt holding the crank pulley. The crank pulley moved, jumping teeth on the timing belt. If I can make the pulley jump teeth by hand, chances are it jumped teeth under compression which is probably what started all of my problems.

Next step will be to replace timing belt (and the other drive belts while I'm at it) and realign all the timing marks. I'm still going to check the CKP while I'm in there.

If anyone is interested, I will post an update after I get all this done.

Thank you everyone for your help, The Chilton manual did not say anything about taking off the lower timing cover to get to the CKP which was the source of my confusion in trying to find it. Without your help, I would have been pulling out whatever hair I have left in trying to find the CKP.

FWIW, I posted the same question on CamryForums and the only two responses I got were no help. One told me to try troubleshooting the very things I listed as having already tried and the other simply told me to post a picture (a picture of what he didn't specify). The people on this board seem much more knowledgeable and helpful. Thank you.

[fenixus]

replace the timing belt tensioner and its spring too while there and doing belts. chances are the loose t-belt was the root cause all along.

I would get OEM timing belt from dealer and Koyo tensioner bearing (same as OEM) from drivewire.com (much cheaper than from dealer). spring is up to you (dealer OEM or aftermarket).

get new accessory belts too while there. Dayco, Mitsuboshi, Bando and Good Year are all OEM brands (each at different time, sometimes depends on Toyota region too), so those you would get when ordering OEM (not so expensive anyways, cheaper than aftermarket Dayco from Autozone if you order from online dealer).

[pmesfun]

Its the V6, so only the hydraulic tensioner. If you haven't bought the T-belt, an OEM Timing Belt Kit off ebay would be a good idea.

[pmesfun]

Originally Posted by Michael W

Update:

I do have to remove the pulley to get the lower timing cover off. When trying to get the pulley off, we held the upper cam pulley still and tried to remove the bolt holding the crank pulley. The crank pulley moved, jumping teeth on the timing belt. If I can make the pulley jump teeth by hand, chances are it jumped teeth under compression which is probably what started all of my problems.

Next step will be to replace timing belt (and the other drive belts while I'm at it) and realign all the timing marks. I'm still going to check the CKP while I'm in there.

If anyone is interested, I will post an update after I get all this done.

Thank you everyone for your help, The Chilton manual did not say anything about taking off the lower timing cover to get to the CKP which was the source of my confusion in trying to find it. Without your help, I would have been pulling out whatever hair I have left in trying to find the CKP.

FWIW, I posted the same question on CamryForums and the only two responses I got were no help. One told me to try troubleshooting the very things I listed as having already tried and the other simply told me to post a picture (a picture of what he didn't specify). The people on this board seem much more knowledgeable and helpful. Thank you.

Did you manage to get the Crank Pulley off? If not, the starter blip method works every time.
.

[fenixus]

right. I was thinking about the 5s-fe, my bad.

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Its the V6, so only the hydraulic tensioner. If you haven't bought the T-belt, an OEM Timing Belt Kit off ebay would be a good idea.

[Michael W]

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Did you manage to get the Crank Pulley off? If not, the starter blip method works every time.
.

Not yet. My friend is brining over an air impact wrench tomorrow, much easier than then armstrong method.

FYI, I bought this car a few months ago for $10 (yes, that is ten dollars). The previous owner rear ended someone and knocked out the grille and headlights as well and bending the hood. He let it sit for almost a year before I came along. I went to the U-pull junk yard and for about $150 I got all new (used) headlights, turn front turn signals, grille and hood. The hard part was the radiator support, I had to bend that back out to get the hood to latch. The hood came off another one of the same color, so it matches (dark blue, almost black) but the grille came off a silver one. Even the silver grille looks good on the dark colored car. All-in-all I'm only into this car for about $400 so far, including all the parts I've had to buy, purchase cost and registration. Up until it stopped running last week, it was a smooth running car, and will be again when I get it fixed. All the electrical components, seat, sun roof, power windows/locks, etc. all work fine. I do have new struts for the rear, but won't bother with those until the engine runs again.

Since I'm new here, I'm not sure if this board has a rule against posting pictures until after X number of posts, but I have a picture of the car if anyone is interested.