Oil Pump Pulley Removal - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

sabbates · 06-08-2011, 07:05 PM

How do I get the oil pump pulley off on a 99 Camry?

I replaced the timing belt, and there was a small oil leak coming from the oil pump bearing. I'd like to replace the seal, but couldn't get the pulley off.

I tried a plumber's belt wrench, but it wasn't strong enough to hold the pulley in place while I torqued the bolt.

I don't want to remove the entire pump and put the pulley in a vice, if I don't have to.

ycartf · 06-08-2011, 07:20 PM

I remove just the oil pump body cover (not the whole body) and replace the weird-shaped O-ring while in there (it is always dried out and brittle by 60k mi). I hold the gear/pulley still by putting the old timing belt on it (meshed in the teeth) and applying a really tight C-clamp to hold it while I break the nut off (don't have a bench vise - or a bench lol).

dave1811 · 06-08-2011, 09:38 PM

+1 on just replacing the oil pump oil seal and just the O ring. I never took the oil pump itself off, just the oil pump cover. Mine was leaking bad on my 99 and my friend who is a Toyota adviser said that was a very common leak area. Mine hasn't leaked a drop of oil since (5 months ago). I also went ahead on the new Toyota valve cover at the same time with also new tube nut gaskets. Hope this helps. Do you have the part numbers already? I have them if you don't (for a 4 cylinder).

***JohnGD*** · 06-08-2011, 10:13 PM

Or make your own pulley, like the picture in message #5:
home made tool to tighten camshaft sproket nut

Here is another one from OTC, but it's probably overpriced.
http://www.otctools.com/products/uni..._pulley_holder

Quote:

Originally Posted by sabbates

How do I get the oil pump pulley off on a 99 Camry?

I replaced the timing belt, and there was a small oil leak coming from the oil pump bearing. I'd like to replace the seal, but couldn't get the pulley off.

I tried a plumber's belt wrench, but it wasn't strong enough to hold the pulley in place while I torqued the bolt.

I don't want to remove the entire pump and put the pulley in a vice, if I don't have to.

ycartf · 06-08-2011, 10:19 PM

Also, to hold the O-ring in place, smear moly grease in the channel it goes in, then place the O-ring in the grease. Works like a charm to hold it in place and the grease helps seal, mixes into oil fine, etc.

sabbates · 06-09-2011, 01:15 PM

Thanks guys.

What's "moly grease"?

sabbates · 06-09-2011, 01:29 PM

I don't remember. Does the oil pump pulley have screw holes in it to attach one of those tool holders to it?

I don't think it does.

ycartf · 06-09-2011, 03:46 PM

Moly grease is just regular old tub grease like for wheel bearings - any old kind.

I don't think it does have holes in it, because I have a cam pulley holder tool (that I bought) and I could not use it.

dave1811 · 06-09-2011, 07:32 PM

I used a cloth in my bench vise to avoid any scarring of the metal and had no problem taking the pulley/gear off that way. It was fairly easy to break loose with my socket after it was in the bench vise. I also did just like ycartf and kept the o ring in place with some wheel bearing grease.

Dave

***JohnGD*** · 06-09-2011, 07:46 PM

Yes, they all should have 4 holes in the pulley that you can use to hold it. Here is a picture of the 1MZ one, but others are similar. Of course unless Toyota has a version that doesn't have any, just like some crank sprockets without bolt holes for a puller!

DIY: 1MZ V6 P/S (power steering) pump rebuild

Quote:

Originally Posted by sabbates

I don't remember. Does the oil pump pulley have screw holes in it to attach one of those tool holders to it?

I don't think it does.

***Mister_Perkins*** · 06-09-2011, 08:36 PM

If you have scratches on the Driven or Drive rotors, or the pump body, I would replace the entire pump and housing.

Make sure to check the clearances between the driven and drive rotors as well.while its off.

a new pump / housing is around $100.00-$150.00 on ebay

Edit:

Also make sure to Pack the Driven and Drive rotor with Petroleum jelly before starting and prime the system ... Pull the EFI Fuse and crank the car until the oil pressure light goes off. Then plug the EFI Fuse back in and start it

sabbates · 06-10-2011, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Yes, they all should have 4 holes in the pulley that you can use to hold it. Here is a picture of the 1MZ one, but others are similar. Of course unless Toyota has a version that doesn't have any, just like some crank sprockets without bolt holes for a puller!

DIY: 1MZ V6 P/S (power steering) pump rebuild

Isn't this a picture of a power steering pump? I was asking about an oil pump.

***JohnGD*** · 06-10-2011, 11:22 AM

Yes, I meant to use it as an example but ended up describing the PS pump! LOL

The oil pump is a much smaller version of this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sabbates

Isn't this a picture of a power steering pump? I was asking about an oil pump.

***JohnGD*** · 06-10-2011, 11:42 AM

Here it is, I missed this picture of the oil pump pulley in step #25:

DIY: GEN3 Timing Belt + Waterpump + Oil Seal Change - Part 1

sabbates · 06-10-2011, 05:20 PM

I see the picture of the oil pump in step 25, thanks.

Those aren't threaded bolt holes, are they? I was under the impression that you want your pulley holder tool to screw into the threads of the holes, like on the crankshaft pulley.

Will the pulley holder tool still work if you just stick the bolts in the holes loose like that?