3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Since you have a higher-mileage Camry that resides in California, I would recommend procuring some high-mileage formulated 10W30 conventional oil. I use Pennzoil High-Mileage oil in my '90 Corolla (the odometer currently reads 205K) and it works great. There's really no need to use synthetic or even semi-synthetic oil in your car since it's A) not a high-performance machine and B) probably doesn't see track time too often Hope this helps you out buddy!
i have been using valvoline maxlife (red jug) in my transmission.
for oil i have been using sythetic for 6 months.... was using the maxlife in the engine but decided to change to synthetic because "they" say it extends engine life. I have noticed a little more valve clatter with the full synthetic, but was told it is normal... engine is still very quiet with only 129k on it.
this car has always been maintained very well, so i hope to get 300k out of it.
it has given me no sign that it wont make it there... just keeps going.
i have been using valvoline maxlife (red jug) in my transmission.
for oil i have been using sythetic for 6 months.... was using the maxlife in the engine but decided to change to synthetic because "they" say it extends engine life. I have noticed a little more valve clatter with the full synthetic, but was told it is normal... engine is still very quiet with only 129k on it.
this car has always been maintained very well, so i hope to get 300k out of it.
it has given me no sign that it wont make it there... just keeps going.
Initially when I bought it, the engine was quiet.bit now clatter and overall noise from engine has increased.
Could it be sure to oil and oil filter used?
So do you advice a transfer to full synthetic? Which brands should I buy?or do I let midas take care of that?
I'm not sure what the noise is. You can take the valve cover off to see how much sludge is in the top part of your engine. Since you have a 98, you have to be aware that your engine might develop sludge problems if you don't change your oil often (at least every 5000 miles). Synthetic oil is great cause it doesn't break down as fast as conventional oil and it will break up some of that sludge, thus cleaning your engine. HOWEVER, the downside is since your engine has 130k miles, your gaskets and seals are somewhat old and might be susceptible to leaks that might be 'sealed' by sludge. Synthetic oil will just compound the problem by taking that sludge away so it will leak more. So, if you want to change to synthetic, make sure you nothing leaks or change out all your seals and gaskets.
As for oil, I would go with conventional 10w-30 or 40 depending on where you live. If you lived in LA or SD, you could try 40, but usually 30 is the way to go. Go with high mileage oil if your engine leaks. As for brand, people have their own opinions. I personally like Castrol. For oil filters, go with Purolator or Wix. People here hate Fram. And of course, with me telling you all of this, you might want to do this yourself since you would do this pretty often. Good luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkv_camry
Initially when I bought it, the engine was quiet.bit now clatter and overall noise from engine has increased.
Could it be sure to oil and oil filter used?
So do you advice a transfer to full synthetic? Which brands should I buy?or do I let midas take care of that?
Castrol gtx highmileage 10w30 + wix/napa gold oil filter. Basically one of the better combos. Wix and purolator filters are the best pound for pound.
Synthetic isnt a bad idea but I would use a 10w30 high mileage synthetic. If youve never ran it before and have that many miles on the engine just keep on using conventional.
Synthetic is a wee bit thinner, that is why valve-train noise might be a bit louder. However, its no biggie. Most new cars use 5w20 and are pretty loud mechanically, but its designed like that.
I'm not sure what the noise is. You can take the valve cover off to see how much sludge is in the top part of your engine. Since you have a 98, you have to be aware that your engine might develop sludge problems if you don't change your oil often (at least every 5000 miles). Synthetic oil is great cause it doesn't break down as fast as conventional oil and it will break up some of that sludge, thus cleaning your engine. HOWEVER, the downside is since your engine has 130k miles, your gaskets and seals are somewhat old and might be susceptible to leaks that might be 'sealed' by sludge. Synthetic oil will just compound the problem by taking that sludge away so it will leak more. So, if you want to change to synthetic, make sure you nothing leaks or change out all your seals and gaskets.
As for oil, I would go with conventional 10w-30 or 40 depending on where you live. If you lived in LA or SD, you could try 40, but usually 30 is the way to go. Go with high mileage oil if your engine leaks. As for brand, people have their own opinions. I personally like Castrol. For oil filters, go with Purolator or Wix. People here hate Fram. And of course, with me telling you all of this, you might want to do this yourself since you would do this pretty often. Good luck!
Thanks for the advice, i live in Sacramento which gets very hot during summer. i haven't seen with intense eye if there is oil leak or not, but when i park my car, i look around engine area for any leaks but apparently there is nothing there.
is it advisable to get the oil and filter from stores and give it to the shop that changes oil? or do i let them replace what they do by default?
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsrus
Castrol gtx highmileage 10w30 + wix/napa gold oil filter. Basically one of the better combos. Wix and purolator filters are the best pound for pound.
Synthetic isnt a bad idea but I would use a 10w30 high mileage synthetic. If youve never ran it before and have that many miles on the engine just keep on using conventional.
Synthetic is a wee bit thinner, that is why valve-train noise might be a bit louder. However, its no biggie. Most new cars use 5w20 and are pretty loud mechanically, but its designed like that.
thank you carsrus. i am thinking of sticking with conventional oil. It is too big a risk with switching to synthetic. I also don't have an extra car in case something goes wrong after switching.
may as well go with tried and tested over 130k miles it has done. but i will surely get the oil and filter you have suggested but before that will have to talk to shop mechanic to see if they will be ok with me providing them with oil and filter or using their own.
i will be doing it next week as i am almost nearing 3k miles with only 300-400 to go which will be done by this week.
If you can, do it yourself since its one of those maintenance things you will do often. I do it myself because I know what's going in my car and at what level the oil is at.
If you can, do it yourself since its one of those maintenance things you will do often. I do it myself because I know what's going in my car and at what level the oil is at.
i am vary of doing that on my own. don't wanna ruin perfectly fine running engine. any way i can get online help for changing oil in camry? like a step by step direction?
If fully-synthetic you can use Mobil-1 High Mileage 10W-30 during the warmer months and if it gets cold where you live go HM 5W-30 during the winter.
However, for your next change you can try Walmart's Motorcraft synthetic-blend 10W-30, or use QuickLane $39.95 coupon special that also includes tire rotation, brake inspection, vehicle check-up, fluid top-off, battery test, air filter check, belts and hoses check:
I've never tried QuickLane or any fast lube place however. And yes, you'll get Motorcraft syn-blend there too, just ask for 10W-30 otherwise they'll put 5W-30 in there like they all like to do.
But as mentioned I think you should try to do your own oil changes. Check the DIY section (it's for V6 but you'll get the idea. I4 is simpler). You will also need a filter wrench for a smaller diameter filter for the I4 like: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-...nch-36778.html
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