3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Background Info: 94 Toyota Camry LE Wagon. 5S-FE with 22000 miles. Disk Brakes all the way around (that means I have ABS right?)
I noticed my brake light had come on on my dash and was worried. My brakes fell solid and stop me quickly. But my Parking Brake doesn't seem to do much of anything. How do I know? When it first came on my brother in law was trying to figure it out. So as I'm driving in town he pulls my e-brake (without my knowledge) as asked me if anything had changed. It hadn't.
So later i checked my fluid, and I was way low. So I filled her to the max line and the light went off. Then two weeks later the light came on again, and guess what? Fluid was low. So I ,filled it up again. As I said before, my brakes stop me quickly, and the pedal feels good so I'm at a lose. Could my ABS have a slow leak? There are no puddles under my car, and no odd smells are coming from under the hood.
Many thanks to anyone that can help me. It's my first car and I want to make her last a bit longer.
If your wheel cylinders are not leaking and you don't have leaks in your lines, then I might suspect the master cylinder may be leaking. You might want to check to see if the carpet up under the driver's feet on the firewall is wet. If so, that might be an indicator of a bad master cylinder.
Having all disc bakes dosnt necessarily mean you have abs. If it was a problem with the abs there should be a abs light on the dash if Im not mistaken. But these guys are right Master cylinder or a pinhole in one of the lines. You wouldnt see any pools of fluid b/c there is no pressure applied to the system while its sitting parked but under braking would be when fluid may seep out from any holes tiny as they may be. GL with getting it fixed.
I am the original owner of a 94 Camry XLE sedan. I ordered the car back in Feb. of 94 and ABS was an $1100 option back then. That's because they upgraded the rear brakes from drum to disc when the car came with ABS. I would assume, but can not say for certain, that the wagon was the same way.
As far as your brake fluid leak, Check carefully for a visiable leak. If you can't find one then it is most likely the master cylinder leaking, as the others have pointed out. The master cylinder can leak internally and the fluid could be sucked in to the power brake booster. From there it is sucked in to the engine by vacuum and burned up by the engine. If you are certain you can't find an external leak, then I would replace the master cylinder. Until then, keep checking the brake fluid every couple of days and top it off to the full mark.
Thank you all very much for the quick replies. As it's 2 AM over where I'm at, I'll check this in the morning. But at least I have a direction to look in!
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My drivers side carpet isn't wet so I assume it's an internal leak. One of my calipers sticks ever once in a while as well, so I'm just going to looking into re doing my brake system all at once.
Last edited by Mister_Perkins; 06-22-2011 at 04:35 PM.
If the master cylinder's rear seal leaks then the brake fluid might go into the brake booster. You can loosen it just a little and check between the MC and booster for brake fluid. But changing out all rubber components would be a good idea.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
Will do, it's nice to work on this car, as everything seems to be in a good place to be worked on.
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Well today I finally figured out my problem.... I checked the inside of the booster and master cylinder and I was in the clear. So I was stumped and just kept driving. Then today I'm driving to the local wally word and felt the pedal go soft and I heard a hissing noise from the rear of the car. I made it back to my house and check my fluid and I'm nearly bone dry. I look under my car and there is a massive puddle. So me and my brother in law climb under the car and look and one of the rear lines is leaking. Most likely a pin hole leak turned into a larger hole, and the reason I didn't see it is because it had been leaking on to my exhaust. So I'm parked for the moment, and will be replacing my lines soon. Thanks so much for the help you guys!
Last edited by Mister_Perkins; 06-22-2011 at 04:34 PM.
Reason: cleaning thread up
Yup that's the one. I'm going to replace them all to ease my mind about the whole thing. The worst part of it is, is that I was just under the car figuring out were to start and I find a fuel leak.... Looks like I'm in for it now. This car sat for quite a while so every thing under the car is rusted, but for 100 bucks I really can't expect much. At least the engine runs like a f'n top.
Yup that's the one. I'm going to replace them all to ease my mind about the whole thing. The worst part of it is, is that I was just under the car figuring out were to start and I find a fuel leak.... Looks like I'm in for it now. This car sat for quite a while so every thing under the car is rusted, but for 100 bucks I really can't expect much. At least the engine runs like a f'n top.
Well every time I bleed the brakes a new leak springs forth. And yesterday I was going to test the brakes under load (we thought we caught all the leaks) I started her up and there was a MASSIVE fuel leak. Do any of you know if there is a common leak in the fuel leak, my dad seems to think it's on top of the tank, but I have (had....) a half of tank of gas so If I can avoid dropping the tank...
Update: So all of my brake lines and fuel lines have been replaced and the brakes are good now. But as one problem is fixed another appears. I took the car out and now it will not rev over 1500 RPMs and you can't push the gas pedal down very much at all. If you try to rev up or push the gas pedal the engine bogs down and the RPMs drop and the car acts like it wants to stall. Happens warm, cold, in D, 2, L, reverse, park, and with the ECT mode on or off. This wasn't happening before the car went down. The only thing I can think of is that we cleaned out the Throttle Body with CRC Throttle Body and Carb cleaner. I was told it was sensor safe and wouldn't hurt the IAC by many people whom I trust, or used to.... How does one check the IAC to see if it's good, or should I just try to run the car for a bit longer to see if it stops. I drove for the better part of an hour with no change.... Please help!
Did you possibly maybe crimp a fuel line? Seems like if it wasn't having the fuel problem before, maybe there is some restriction in the fuel line?? Just a guess on my part.
At least you are in the process of getting it running. My 18 year old just got T-boned in his 99 Camry which was in excellent shape. I just even had the seats recovered with Katzskin leather one week earlier!! He pulled out in front of somebody. Unbelievable!!
Anyway, down one great 99 Camry, off to the boneyard somewhere wherever the insurance company takes her. The estimate to fix it was $5700 or so. So, will start looking for another one.
Ouch! Don't let him drive your Swagger Wagon! I'm going to check the Fuel Filter (put a new one in, it's the right one but not sure it if was put in right) and my Supply Line for crimps. The car is now getting better if you let in warm up. In park I can at least get it up to 2000 RPM.
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