Spectra or Dorman oil pan for 99 camry - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 06-13-2011, 06:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Spectra or Dorman oil pan for 99 camry

At the oil change today for my 99 camry (4 banger), the mechanic showed me how rusted the oil pan was. Quite convincing. I was not, however, convinced I should get an after market oil pan from a supplier for $200.

An internet search showed that I could get a Dorman oil pan for $83 from Amazon, or a Spectra brand oil pan for $60 after coupon. Which one should I get? Are there significant quality difference between the two products? Your opinion is high valued.
Thank you.
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is it rusted to the point of seeping oil through?
Is road salt used frequently where you are?
Clean it off, sand it clean and paint it.
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It does snow frequently in Northern New Jersey, especially last winter. A lot of salt was used then.
It rusted at two or three patches, although it did not rust through.
I will try sand the rusted area, but I am kind of worried that I will sand through the rust and what is left of the pan.
At any rate, do you think that there will be a good chance that the oil will rupture out of the pan and be gone instantly, or it is more likely that I will see some leaking first?

Thanks a lot.
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I replaced my 97 camrys oil pan with a spectra without any problems. Just be careful not to crossthread the drain plug when reinstalling. There is a small sleeve the plug threads in to and it is not very forgiving. Dont ask me how i know.
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for sharing your experience on Spectra. Wonder whether Dorman is any different.
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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crank case is vented, and not under pressure when engine is operating.
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thank you for sharing the info. It means that I don't need to worry that oil would gush out of rusty spot unless it happen to hit a rock or something like that, right?
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I wouldn't sand and paint a Rotting oil pan. That's not good practice IMO. If you loose the oil, you loose your motor. These 5sfe motors are very unforgiving
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks. Mister Perkins. It has always been a concern that I will actually break the pan while cleaning it. I really want to extend the life of the pan without major spending ($400 to replace). Because it is getting more costly to maintain the car in the last couple of years (upward of $1000 a year), I think I might have to give up and get another car at certain point. But before that happens, I want to do something to stop/slow the rusting process and get more life out of the pan.

I called local NAPA shop, I was told that I could spay a layer of rust-stopping primer, then spay-paint the rusty spots. Are there such a thing as rust stopping primer.
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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400 to replace? I got one at my local advance auto for about 100 bucks with the gasket and that was probly paying too much. I have done it myself and it only took a few hours and i was by no means rushing. All you need really is a 1/4 in drive ratchet with a good long extension and a 10mil socket. A universal socket joint helped out too for a few tricky bolts. Dropping the exhaust is not necessary either if your good enough . if you DO plan on doing it yourself PM for some other helpfull tricks when doing it. Never give up on your Camry over a little rust!
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thank you for all the encouraging words. It is really out of the question for me to DIY, as I live in an apartment and auto work is not allowed. I am not shy of working on my car. I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, air filters, all light works without lifting the car. But it is just not possible to do any thing more involving. Buying parts myself would save $100. That is a good idea.
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My 2 cents but if you decide on a new oil pan, the Toyota factory one is $133.59 plus shipping from online Toyota discount parts dealers. Don't have a clue who the manufacturer is of an oil pan though??

Good luck!

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Old 06-17-2011, 10:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Get some converter called por 15. It works excellent. Converts the rust
To metal.
After applying, paint with primer or paint
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Old 06-18-2011, 10:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I am going the route of rust converter + 3M undercover. Although undercover is not used to cover the oil pan completely, I will use it to cover the rusty spots after rust treatment, to provide a protective shell.
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:25 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Rust converter does not change back the rust into metal, it passivates the rust and turns it into a phosphate coating (keep in mind that it is porous but that should not re rust immediately) Paint is better than the undercoating, which can have salt / moisture pocket form and eat away at the base metal even sooner.
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