Mobil 1 0W-30?

[ShawnTRD]

Mobil 1 says I can use 0W-30 instead of 5W-30. Anyone using it? I'm not looking for it to improve my MPG. I'm 100% thinking of this as "reaching your engine's vital parts faster during start-up" while still protecting at 100F days driving in stop and go traffic and up hills. So at the same time what do you think about Mobil 1 0W-40, European Car Formula? So people seem to think it's the best on the M1 line.

Thanks
Shawn

M1's FAQ

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-20 and 0W-30 motor oils flow faster than 5W-20 and 5W-30 motor oil, respectively, reaching your engine's vital parts faster during start-up. Not only does this help reduce wear on engine parts, but it also reduces the demands on your starter and battery. It's worth noting that GM owner's manuals recommend using synthetic 0W-30 or 5W-30 for temperatures below -20°F. Mobil 1 0W-20 and 0W-30 are certified as "Resource Conserving" by both the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) and the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy is available in 0W-20 and 0W-30 formulations. ExxonMobil recommends Mobil 1 0W-20 for 5W-20 applications and Mobil 1 0W-30 for 5W-30 and 10W-30 applications.

Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy meets or exceeds many new car warranty requirements where SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil is recommended. Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 provides the high temperature protection of 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils while offering improved fuel economy. As a result, many consumers can benefit from improved fuel economy while also obtaining outstanding engine protection for their vehicles.

If your car maker recommends SAE 10W-30 ILSAC oil (starburst), we recommend either Mobil 1 10W-30, Mobil 1 5W-30, or Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy, which offers the high temperature protection of 10W-30 or 5W-30 oils while offering improved fuel economy. You will not void your warranty where an API certified oil is recommended.

[Mister_Perkins]

If u haven't rePlaces your seals on the motor in a while they may start seeping pretty good.

Its no problem though to switch to a synthetic 0 w oil though.

[ShawnTRD]

Think that's because of the Full Synthetic or the 0W? I've been running Valvoline Synthetic Blend for the last two oil changes. I don't think anything is leaking yet. I do feel if something leak because of the Synthetic oil it's something that should be fix anyway. But like my oil Honda where everything leaked it can be a PITA.

[carsrus]

I wouldn't do it. These motors are so reliable b/c of the upper end. They'll be clogged with sludge and still run without missing a beat.

Toyota recommends 5w30 and 10w30 for a reason. If you wanna test their engineers run the 0w.

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by carsrus

I wouldn't do it. These motors are so reliable b/c of the upper end. They'll be clogged with sludge and still run without missing a beat.

Toyota recommends 5w30 and 10w30 for a reason. If you wanna test their engineers run the 0w.

They recommend those oils because the 0w oils weren't out yet. If your already running synthetic you may not have a problem going to the 0w.

Just keep an eye on the seals

I'm actually going to go to the 0w my next oil change because every seal on my motor is new
Now lol

[ShawnTRD]

Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins

I'm actually going to go to the 0w my next oil change because every seal on my motor is new
Now lol

Even the main front and real seals? How many miles you have on that motor? I've only got 85k now. Bought it in January with 73k.

[Mister_Perkins]

yeah i changed the Rear Main seal when I put the motor in. The body says 171,000 miles. The motor has about 110,000 miles on it

[chronoti]

toyota revamped the specs 1mz are now 5w-20, 3mz are 0w-20 and i think the 5s is 5w-20 now too.

i'm running 0w-20 m1 but going to penz in the next week because it was cheaper (syntec still)

[EEngineer]

don't. stick with 5W30

[arabianobsession]

0w30 is excellent for cold start ups, I used to run it in my last car (a 98 Sunfire), and the start up performance was amazing. I had just done all the gaskets so it wasn't an issue then, either.

[Stillrunning]

I've been running M1 0w-30 since I purchased the vehicle used with 138k. No problems, easy start-up and oil pressure is about 40+psi at 3k. I've also done used oil analysis a couple of times with excellent results and great wear numbers.

[fenixus]

M1 0W-30 is an excellent oil exceeding specs of any 5W-30 oil.

If car was running fine on synthetic blend, then it's likely that it will run fine on any Full Synthetic as well no matter if that would be 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 or 10W-30, classic or HM. though HM oils are thicker than classic ones for sure.

0W-30 provides better lubrication in lower temps than 5W-30 and about the same at hot running temps.

I am running M1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 in 5s-fe (car has been running various full synthetics for years) and currently running M1 FS HM formula of 10W-30 in V6 (formerly ran on Royal Purple 5W-30 for a couple thousand miles).

pair it with good filter like PureOne, WIX or OEM and good to go up to 5k miles easily even in city driving mostly or 6 months OCI

if you do mostly highway driving than 7.5k miles OCI is all right.

synthetics will last MUCH longer than dino shit which tends to get cooked after 2k miles.

[csharp100]

I would stick with the factory recomendations for the year vehicle that you have. Think about it, the manufacturer recommends a particular weight of oil because they are the ones who designed and built the vehicle. An oil company, one who did NOT design and manufacturer the vehicle really should not be making recommendations on what I put in my car. The oil company wants your business and will market that way. If you really want to know, call Toyota and ask them if they would recommend it. I am sure they will give you the skinny.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by csharp100

...the manufacturer recommends a particular weight of oil because they are the ones who designed and built the vehicle. An oil company, one who did NOT design and manufacturer the vehicle really should not be making recommendations on what I put in my car. The oil company wants your business and will market that way.

I don't think there was an 0w-30 in 1995, let alone many synthetic choices. Mobil says "Warranty Protection For 5w-30 & 10w-30 Requirements", add to that my used oil analysis and 0w-30 is a great oil. You won't however go wrong with recommendation from owners manual.

[fenixus]

not really.

Fact that Toyota recommends running our engines on dino oil means they tested them with those as they were designed to be cheap economy sedans/coupes not really intended for "luxury" (at that time) full synthetic oils.

besides factory oil specs call for ILSAC GF-1 or GF-2 oils while we all use at least GF-3 (some HM versions) or GF-5 (all others) oils nowadays ... which already is running a different formula of oil than the one which designers tested it with.

also as above, 0W-30 didn't exist when owner's manuals for our cars were written. look at oil datasheets, compare numbers, HTHS levels, viscosities, etc. go by that when choosing oil and not by some copy & paste recommendation from 10-20 years old owner's manual.

just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by csharp100

I would stick with the factory recomendations for the year vehicle that you have. Think about it, the manufacturer recommends a particular weight of oil because they are the ones who designed and built the vehicle. An oil company, one who did NOT design and manufacturer the vehicle really should not be making recommendations on what I put in my car. The oil company wants your business and will market that way. If you really want to know, call Toyota and ask them if they would recommend it. I am sure they will give you the skinny.