Diff Fill Confusion

[ettuBrute]

Hello all. Just bought my first Camry off an old friend and changing all the fluids. It's a 1998 2.2 4 cyl. with A/T. Confused about the fill on the '98 4 cyl differential. I have been reading hundreds of posts, and some say to fill through trans fill tube on '98 and up; then some say from '99 and up. I do see a 17mm fill plug (bolt) on my diff. Does this mean I have to fill through this plug , or can I use the (much easier) method through the A/T fill tube. Are the trans and diff connected in the 1998 4 cyl.? I'm 65 y/o and being on my back under a car is not so easy now, so want to take the simplest route. Not sure if diff fill plug has ever been off and I read they are notorious for being difficult. Please settle my mind here so I can give my car a fresh start. Thanks, Tom J.

[JohnGD]

The I4 transaxle has a separate fill for the differential. I don't know why Toyota changed the last years of the V6 transaxle and not the I4 to use the dipstick tube to fill. However the newer Aisin U-series transaxles share a single pan, but those transaxles have problems of their own.

You can take the car to a shop and have them loosen the bolt for you just in case. Or pay them for one drain/refill and make sure they don't overtighten the fill bolt.

[ettuBrute]

Thanks for clearing that up John. I know from lurking on this forum a few months that you're someone worth listening to.

I figured if there was a fill plug, you'd probably have to use it. But, hoped it was maybe some transitional year where they changed some internal seal, but left the external case the same. No such luck.

I will give it my best half-assed attempted, but was thinking the same about bringing it to a mechanic to just break loose. Also had a hare-brained thought of putting a tight fitting tube into the drain hole with funnel attached way overhead. Then pour in 2 qts. and quick (but messy) pull out hose and replace plug. Fluid loss shouldn't be more than the cup or so that would bring it to the 1.7 qts volume required.

[dave1811]

I changed both my 99's by jacking up all four corners and running a fill tube from the top like the post in the DIY section. Next time, I might just pay the extra dollars and have it done. I, Ettubrute, like you are not getting any younger, my AARP applications keep coming in the mail. The older I get, the less I want to work on them at sometimes. Had a shop replace the Power brake booster on my daughter's 99 2 days ago along with the rear brakes. I tackle the front discs because they are a lot easier. Did my first brake job with my dad when I was 14 on a 58 Ford.

Getting older and hopefully wiser about my jobs I tackle.

[ettuBrute]

Dave - Knowing your limits and working with them, is part of the wisdom of aging. Thanks for the support.

[JohnGD]

There are plenty of knowledgeable members just trying help each other out on TN. I'll try my best.

The main obstacle is a stuck differential fill bolt. It doesn't have to be tighter than the typical oil pan drain plug - using a "calibrated arm" on a standard length 3/8" ratchet. The clearance loosening the fill bolt from top is bit tight however. And if the fill plug is not seized then you may be able to reach in from the top in the future too, but road salt can be nasty in the northeast.

Yes, the car can be lowered to the ground and refilled using a funnel and 3/8" ID PVC tubing (for example 20-30 cents per foot from Lowes). Dump 1.5 qts in, and then "drip" more down until you see it seep out of the fill hole. Mobil-1, Castrol Import Multi-vehicle ATF, or Walmart SuperTech Mercon-V are some choices commonly found on the shelves. All are Dexron-III suitable.

HF 99-cent (on sale) funnel set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...l-set-744.html

[ettuBrute]

Thanks again John. Had my own funnel set up all ready, having read earlier posts. Just stymied by that tight fill plug. I only have 8" Rhino ramps to get under car and the clearance between the plug and firewall, as well as the exhaust pipe, make it hard for the tools I have. I might try a short "cheater" bar on the end of a box-end wrench, but I think I'm going to run up against the exhaust pipe. Can't see what I could use trying access from the top of the engine.

This poor 13 y/o car seems to have a history of overtightened bolts. I've found 3 stripped bolts on the oilpan. It was put in new about 4 years ago, but now seeping in the area of those stripped bolts. Will live with this until I can find a mechanic I trust enough to do a good job of tapping out the stripped holes.It seems professionals have no time now-a-days for such fine work. Tom J.