3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I am looking for information on changing the ac condenser on a 1995 Camry, 4cyl, factory installed ac. I had the condenser (leak) changed two years ago by a shop. It was also was recharged, with oil and dye added.
The ac stopped working last week. I bought some feon in the can and added some until the compressor started up. I could see the dye and hear the leak in the condenser right in front. Looks like a stone hit it. It was leaking at a good rate. It stopped within 5 minutes, but I didn't put much in.
I would like to replace the condenser myself to save some money. And take the car to a shop to have the ac recharged. I feel with the leak there is no feon in the condenser and it is OK to remove and replace it. In my case is this right? Is there any other items I should look for? Should the shop add oil when they charge the system? When the new condenser was installed, they replaced it's O rings. That is all I could think of replacing. Thanks for any advice on this matter!
Never done it but probably self explanatory as you do it. Remove upper cover, cooling fan, upper support, refrigerant lines (cap open fittings to help keep moisture out), remover headlights, remove two rad bots and lean backwards then remove condenser. Add 1.4 fl/oz of compressor oil into new condenser. Replace filter/dryer and add .4 fl/oz of oil to new filter/dryer. Replace tube connections with new o-rings that have new oil applied. Have shop pull a vacuum for at least 1/2 hour and test for leaks. Recharge system. Toyota specs ND-Oil 8 for compressor, but shop may use equivalent.
Have a beer.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
make sure if you change the condenser to change the evaporator too at the same time. One should not be changed without the other. You could also change the Accumulator while your at it. Also make sure to replace every O-Ring on the system, and give it a good flush before Vacuuming and charging it.
At my work, we took various A/C Classes and certifications and they said to change both at the same time because if one is messed up, the other one is already messed up or going to mess up. Things go bad overtime. Assuming that this car has never had any A/C parts replaced besides maybe the car being converted from R12 to R134A. This is bad on its own, unless flushed. The R12 is a mineral oil and when it mixes with the R134a oil it becomes acidic. One good reason to flush the system out. Another reason to flush is because if the A/C system is partially clogged, by flushing you are removing any blockage that may be in the way. The main reason that you change both is because they are both very important parts of an A/C System. Its kind of like when changing the timing belt, you change the Tensioners, Cam, and Crank seals.
If you dont change those seals on the timing job, then down the road .. more than likely one is going to fail and possibly ruin the belt, and also make a big mess.
From what you've already said, you have never replaced one so you obviously dont have the experience in Air Conditioning systems, while me on the other hand has taken various A/C Diagnostic and Certification classes and I am Certified in A/C Systems for cars, trucks, and refrigeration units.
I appreciate the honesty in your questions, and I am not trying to offend you in any way but that's the honest truth of why you should change the Evaporator when you change the Condenser.
Edit:
OP I forgot to add that you should also replace the expansion valve, because those are a common point of Freon leaks (at the seals). They like to stick partially closed/open too, which is no good. Its a $90.00 part at toyota, or a $30.00 part online
make sure if you change the condenser to change the evaporator too at the same time. One should not be changed without the other. You could also change the Accumulator while your at it. Also make sure to replace every O-Ring on the system, and give it a good flush before Vacuuming and charging it.
Holy shit, that's way overkill. The condenser took a rock -- that doesn't mean it's time to start messing with the whole system. Condenser, receiver/dryer (accumulator), associated o-rings, add a bit of oil, pull a vacuum and do a leak-down test, then recharge. If it got holed within the last few days, I'd even skip the receiver/dryer, but if it's been open to the atmosphere for much time at all, it's probably saturated and needs to be changed out.
BTW, the '95 was factory R134a -- no need to worry about the whole R12 thing.
I didn't realize it just took a rock. It's still a good idea to change
Them both especially with higher miles.
That's what I would recommend anyways.
You really don't need to replace all that stuff I listed, but if
You want to have the ac system perform at
It's optimum level IDE replace those things. This is assuming that the compressor is still strong
If u Don't change both, at least swap the expAnsion valve out for a new one.
Go bad how? So, if it's not leaking through the core then you say replace? Does that make economic sense for a guy who said a rock punctured his condenser and has not given us any other complaint?
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Assuming that this car has never had any A/C parts replaced...also replace the expansion valve
Why not replace the compressor as well? Hell, just replace everything?
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besides maybe the car being converted from R12 to R134A.
The 1995 already has 134a, but you didn't ask the OP.
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Another reason to flush is because if the A/C system is partially clogged....by flushing you are removing any blockage that may be in the way.
Really, by what? Is there an indication of that? Anyway, the way you have the OP replacing everything there's nothing left to flush. Again, he said a rock punctured his condenser.
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From what you've already said, you have never replaced one so you obviously dont have the experience in Air Conditioning systems, while me on the other hand has taken various A/C Diagnostic and Certification classes and I am Certified in A/C Systems for cars, trucks, and refrigeration units.
So you sitting in class taking notes gets to assume I don't have A/C experience and therefore you are qualified to tell the OP to spend his scarce dollars on unnecessary repairs because the book said to, and because you didn't read the post: "I didn't realize it just took a rock."
I've done my share of A/C work (just not wrenched a condenser), own a vacuum pump, digital gauge set and all the equipment necessary to work on A/C systems. I've diagnosed, repaired, and converted several A/C systems (as well as disassembled and rebuilt a compressor) by actually doing it as well as doing the necessary research and reading.
The weakness in many of your posts is you just copy and paste from the books you used in class which include everything that can possibly go wrong, but you fail try to dig into the actual underlying cause of the problem OPs complain about. Anyone can list everything they find in books that can go wrong and therefore be right 100% of the time - it does however create a bunch of expensive, time consuming, and time wasting unnecessary steps to resolve a simple problem.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Well the op can decide what he wants to change. There's no reAson in Arguing.
By the way what I know is not only from books, but from real life experience as well. I am a full time diesel mechanic. I've leArned what I know from old guys I work with and from my own experiences.
I appreciate your opinion on the mAtter And the whole point of this forum is to help people out.
He has two opinions of whAt can be done and he can now decide for himself what he want to do.
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