3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
The first photo shows the engine bay. The second and third are close ups of the engine itself. This is on a 2000 Avalon, around 140 K miles with all the recommended services done by the previous owner (have the record and time line with me).
Is this seepage of oil normal in engines of this age? If not, what is the proper way to fix this? I am suspecting the head gasket is the culprit, but correct me if I am wrong.
hieee,
you are looking at your front valve cover gasket.
the rear valve cover gasket, on the other hand, it is a b!tch job.
Ah! Right. So, is that a smaller issue that a head gasket job? On a related note, the coolant level is steady and the coolant doesn't seem to be getting colored in any way. The car runs fine in all respects.
How much should I be looking at for the front valve cover gasket R&R? And for the rear? I am in Washington DC.
Much easier than a head gasket. Remove the plastic cover, 3 coil plugs and then pop the valve cover off!
Looks to be a relatively easy DIY. Is that correct?
Just for reference, I am fully willing to do the stuff that I can do on my car (as long as it does not require any specialized tools). Only that I have not done any of this before. I can use the usual common tools. As a first job on the car, I cleaned up its throttle plates yesterday. So, with this context, is changing the front VCG job small enough to bite? Or, in other words, any risk of screw-ups if one is carefull?
If you were able to get to clean the throttle body, you've got all the skill needed to get to the VCG. I think there's a DIY on here about it.... It's a very easy job. You remove the plastic cover. Remove the 3 coils by their 10mm screw, and I think there's a couple 10 mm nuts around the edges of the valve cover, but once all thats off you just gently pry the cover off with a flathead screwdriver, peel off the old gasket and put in a new one. Make sure to use RTV as well and torque to proper specs!
Yes, you need a 1/4" torque wrench, the valve cover bolts break so easily if you over-tighten them.
The radiator hose needs to removed to take off the valve cover, if the coolant has a red dye to it, get Toyota Red from the dealer and a gallon of Distilled water and mix them 50/50.
The front valve cover seems easy. But I don't have a garage (needs a lot of cleaning, rags, alchohol, degreaser, etc.). I have a buddy in whose garage is usually do this stuff. One little problem that he is away and won't be available for some weeks.
Also, I am not at all familiar with this coolant hoses and stuff.
Lastly, I noted the warning about the rear cover, and I have a strong hunch that that needs to be replaced as well.
So, taking these account:
1. If I have somebody do the gaskets of the valve covers, are there some related things that I should also have done?
2. What is a reasonable cost of such a job?
3. I gather that it should not take more than 1.5~3 hours. Am I correct?
yup, that's the front valve cover gasket. had same oil leak over the Winter. mine got even so bad at some point that the shiny letter 1mz casted on short block down there were also covered with oil and mud ... needed to pressure wash the engine after fixing the leak.
to replace the front VC you need to drain the coolant, so it might be a good idea to replace the thermostat and its gasket too if you like, but it's a PITA to do on this car, so skip it if all works fine
I would get new (8 pcs) bolts from dealer for the valve cover, they come with new crush washers (at least mine did, however I ordered extra washers as I wasn't aware of that).
don't even attempt doing that without 1/4'' and 3/8'' torque wrenches and metric sockets and some smart extensions and/or joints (for thermostat housing).
The first photo shows the engine bay. The second and third are close ups of the engine itself. This is on a 2000 Avalon, around 140 K miles with all the recommended services done by the previous owner (have the record and time line with me).
Is this seepage of oil normal in engines of this age? If not, what is the proper way to fix this? I am suspecting the head gasket is the culprit, but correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Well, folks. I talked to a couple of places today here in Northern Virginia. The dealership wanted $550 or so to replace both the valve cover gaskets. I am probably going to call them to ask what exact things that includes. 1 year warranty with the repairs.
I got a quote from the AAA repair center here for $410 approx. That includes, the two valve cover gaskets, the seals for the oil tubes (for the spark plug tubes?), and, additionally, an upper plenum gasket (this one costs $55 or so). What is that third thing? 2 years warranty with the repairs.
How should these quotes be considered? Is the latter more appropriate?
Thanks for your feedback, guys, really appreciate it.
Well, folks. I talked to a couple of places today here in Northern Virginia. The dealership wanted $550 or so to replace both the valve cover gaskets. I am probably going to call them to ask what exact things that includes. 1 year warranty with the repairs.
I got a quote from the AAA repair center here for $410 approx. That includes, the two valve cover gaskets, the seals for the oil tubes (for the spark plug tubes?), and, additionally, an upper plenum gasket (this one costs $55 or so). What is that third thing? 2 years warranty with the repairs.
How should these quotes be considered? Is the latter more appropriate?
Thanks for your feedback, guys, really appreciate it.
the front VC gasket is easy, like a 10 to 15 minutes job,
the rear VC gasket is much harder, require to remove intake plenum, throttle body, EGR valve, all those have non-reusable metal gaskets. u may take risk re-using those metal gaskets, but if it does leak, your car will run like sh!t because un-metered vaccum leak will make the car run lean, then you will restart the exercise again. looking at 1 to 2 hour of labor just for rear VC.
and consider changing the rear 3 spark plugs while you are at it.
if you do it right, replace all with oem new gaskets, those oil leak will not bother you again until another 60k to 100k miles, or 6 to 10 years, beyond the 2 yr warranty.
and consider changing the rear 3 spark plugs while you are at it.
if you do it right, replace all with oem new gaskets, those oil leak will not bother you again until another 60k to 100k miles, or 6 to 10 years, beyond the 2 yr warranty.
I understand about the rear VCG. Total time I was quoted was around 3 hours. So that seems to be reasonable.
I am just not sure about the cost of the upper plenum. The AAA folks quoted $50 for that (bring the total to $410 or so). But I just called another place they said it is around $8, and they quoted me $350 for the whole job.
All sparks plugs were changed around 20 K miles ago, do I still need to consider changing those?
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