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Old 06-21-2011, 02:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Concerned about moisture in A/C system..

5. REMOVE LIQUID TUBES
Remove the 2 bolts and 2 tubes.
NOTICE: Cap the open fittings immediately to keep mois–
ture out of the system.
6. REMOVE HEADLIGHTS ON THE BOTH SIDES



So I'm fixing to put in a new compressor, drier possibly a condensor as well into my A/C system. However, I have been without a drier and compressor now for several months because both of them were pieces of crap that I had refunded and didn't get around to replacing the A/C during the summer.

So now just concerned about moisture in the system. Question, will the new drier take care of any moisture inside? Should I replace condensor also? There's been no refrigerant in it during this time, just the compressor and drier gone with the tubes left open.
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 96ToyoCam164K View Post
Question, will the new drier take care of any moisture inside?
No. You'll need to pull a vacuum for a minimum of 1/2 hour. I'd pull one for about an hour or more. There are additives that are supposed to neutralize moisture but I have no experience with them. The shop you take it to to pull the vacuum and re-charge may be able to help you and their equipment may also be able to detect moisture level.

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Should I replace condensor also?
Not unless it has a leak or looks corroded. Since you're torn down so much and seem to have the time I'd replace every o-ring you can get access to. You'll also need to replace oil in the system, quantity as per component replaced. I don't know why or how your compressor failed but if there is a chance that metal particles got into the system then a line flush may be a safe thing to do. Trying to flush the evaporator is almost impossible unless you remove it and take the expansion valve off. The condenser is also hard to flush because of the number of small passages in it.There are filters that you can install, pre-compressor, that will protect the new compressor.
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Old 06-21-2011, 07:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If u do pull the evaporator u might as well replace the expansion valve too. They fail a lot
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No. You'll need to pull a vacuum for a minimum of 1/2 hour. I'd pull one for about an hour or more. There are additives that are supposed to neutralize moisture but I have no experience with them. The shop you take it to to pull the vacuum and re-charge may be able to help you and their equipment may also be able to detect moisture level.



Not unless it has a leak or looks corroded. Since you're torn down so much and seem to have the time I'd replace every o-ring you can get access to. You'll also need to replace oil in the system, quantity as per component replaced. I don't know why or how your compressor failed but if there is a chance that metal particles got into the system then a line flush may be a safe thing to do. Trying to flush the evaporator is almost impossible unless you remove it and take the expansion valve off. The condenser is also hard to flush because of the number of small passages in it.There are filters that you can install, pre-compressor, that will protect the new compressor.
Ah so the vacuum removes air and moisture. I thought it was just air.

1 of my compressors (went thru like 4 of them) had conked out last year and something with the bearings just stopped allowing the clutch to turn. I then replaced with a new compressor and it was a defective one. As far as I know there is no metal particles that could have gotten into my system because I ran the defective one for a couple thousand miles before just taking it out and returning it to the store for a refund.

I had the evaporator and expansion valve changed out around this time last year, and then shortly after my compressor died

I'm kind of scared to install the compressor myself though LOL. But at the same time I already ordered the part and I know how mechanics don't like customers ordering parts so I'm pretty much fucked LOL. Don't I need a belt tensioner gauge or something or do I just tighten the bolts to the correct torque?
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:04 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Ah so the vacuum removes air and moisture. I thought it was just air.
The vacuum lowers the boiling point and the vacuum pump sucks out the steam. Pulling vacuum at higher ambient temps helps and you can also use a hair dryer on parts such as evaporator to aid in boiling temp. You want a vacuum of at least 28 in/hg to achieve this. At 29 in/hg water boils at 76.6 F, but at 28 it boils at close to 100F.

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I'm kind of scared to install the compressor myself though LOL.
It's really easy, just bolt on. Use new o-rings dipped in compressor oil and make sure you add the correct amount of oil to the compressor before you install it. I like to hand spin it after oil is added.

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Don't I need a belt tensioner gauge or something or do I just tighten the bolts to the correct torque?
I've never used a belt tensioner but I have used a ruler to judge deflection of belt. You want the compressor bolted tight as there is a lot of torque when the clutch engages.
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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if your really concerned about getting it tight enough, put some loctite on the tip of the threads before you spin the bolts in. When that crap dries it will make it tougher for the bolts to spin back out
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Well...I was wanting to also change the PS belt while I'm down there but I can't seem to find a DIY explaining it??
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thats real easy.. Get yourself a 12mm socket, a 10mm socket. remove the splash guard on the passenger side, grab your 12mm socket and stick it on the bottom bolt on the power steering assembly using a long extension loosen it. Grab a hold of the belt and pull on it and the pump will swivvle down. Then put the new belt on, grab a pry bar and push the pump back up and at the same time tighen the 12mm bolt.

edit :

heres a picture with the bolt to loosen Circled

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Old 06-23-2011, 05:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So the bolt that is circled in red is the 12 mm PS pump bolt? And the 10 mm is that the one for the splash guard?
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yeah , its really straight forward. Once you remove that splash guard you'll see what im talking about. if you look right in between the body and the belt running to the crankshaft, you should see the bolt hanging out back there. You'll need a good size extension. I use my 3ft extension for it, but thats because im lazy and dont want to lean over. lol I can sit outside the car and crank it loose


heres a Paint picture of pretty much what you can expect to see.. the red is obviously the car, then on the left is the power steering pulley and the center is the crankshaft pulley. the bolts right in there

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Old 06-24-2011, 04:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Great...I think I have it. But do I have to remove the tire to get ahold of it? I mean...to make it easier lol?

My new Denso just came today, yay! But the only thing is it doesn't have the service ports on them and my old compressor was the one that had it but before I knew how to take it apart....I returned it for a refund because it was defective.
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