3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I pulled my axles off but I'm not sure if I did it correctly. I removed the spindles then the 6 hex bolts holdin the axels to the tranny. Then I tapped the out. The pass side came out intact with the ball bearins and the driver side ball bearing. Went all over the ground. The drivers side need to be replaced anyway but is this the correct process? I'm use to pullin amercan car axels and the bearings are not exposed like this. And do I need to put grease back in them?
No, you separated your bearings. Since they fell all over the ground, that means that the bearing is whooped. I would suggest getting differential bearings and have a shop replace them.
Next time just pull the axle put by hand or Use an axle slide hammer or large vice
Grips and a hammer
That was a no to which question? Like I ssaid the drivers side needs to be replaced anyway so the bearings fallin out reeally didn't matter. And I basically pulled the axles out by hand I just tapped them a few times lightly w/ a hammer.
Fastcat - You're saying that the balls in the CV joint fell out, right?... not the balls in the transaxle's output shaft bearing? If that's correct, then the CV axle is toast; get a new one.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
I don't know what you call it exactly so let me explain. All I did was remove the 6 hex nuts that holds the axle in place then I pulled them out. I didn't have to pry anything, no tranny fluid came out or anything... After I pulled them out it is basically a ball and socket type deal goin on. The "sockets" (left and right side) are still conected to the tranny and the are the balls (bearing) are still connected axle (besides the driver side which needs to be replaced)...
I just want to make sure I took them out the correct way. So what I'm tring to get at is when I'm putting everything back together I just slide the axle back in the "socket" and put the 6 hex bolts back on and I'm done? If so any grease needed?
The end opposite the splines bolts up to a flange on the transaxle's stub shaft. If you look into that end of the axle, you can see the balls, right? New ones ship dry, and come with a packet of grease to pack in there. So if yours are lacking grease, you need to pack 'em. And not with any ol' grease, either. Those require something special, I forget what? Any auto parts store clerk should know what you need.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Mine looks something like that but the balls are exposed. There isn't a sleeve that goes arount it the sleeve is still attached to the tranny. Ill post a pic or it tonight
Mine looks something like that but the balls are exposed. There isn't a sleeve that goes arount it the sleeve is still attached to the tranny. Ill post a pic or it tonight
Your CV axle is broken.
The "sleeve" should not separate from the axle. It's probably just stuck/rusted to the transaxle's stub shaft. Get it off however you can and replace the CV axle assembly. That sleeve locates on the stub shaft flange via a small lip on the flange. It fits precisely because it serves to center the CV joint on the output shaft.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
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