1997 Camry that has been sitting for a long time: tune-up recommendations?

[Jawadali]

Hi Everyone,

I apologize in advance for the long post. This forum has been very informative so far, but I decided to join and post so I could get some better feedback.

I will be moving from eastern PA to Madison, WI towards the end of July, and I just bought a 1997 Camry LE (2.2L, 71k miles) since I needed my own car.


The car seems to have been maintained pretty well by the original owner, but has not been driven very often in the past 5 years (the 60,000 mile service was done in 2005, with the most recent oil change at 69k miles in May of 2010). From the service records, the car seems to have been sitting outside unused for weeks or even months at a time in the past ~3-4 years.

Therefore, before I go on this long trip, I'd like to have the car thoroughly serviced/tuned up.

The car seems to drive fine, but I'd like to prevent any potential problems.

The extent of my auto experience involves changing the spark plugs on a 2000 Toyota Echo, so although I could do similar simple stuff myself, I don't mind going to a professional for some of the more complicated stuff.

I have browsed through the FAQ sticky, as well as done some searches, but am seeking general advice with a particular focus on the following points:

1) Oil Change and General Inspection

Obviously, the first thing on the list is an oil change. I will most likely head to the dealer for this one, and will probably pay more for an "upgraded" one with more detailed inspection, unless you guys say otherwise.


2) Cleaning and Rust

Many of the components (bolts, connectors, etc.) under the hood have rust buildup ranging from light to severe. The engine itself seems to be in good shape, but definitely could use a cleaning. Any recommendations on how to (safely) do some general cleaning under the hood, especially for rusted components? I may also clean the throttle body according to the sticky in this thread.


3) Battery and Battery Cables

The clamps on the battery cables are rusted pretty well, and there is heavy sediment buildup on the terminals. Although the car starts fine, I am thinking to replace the battery anyway in anticipation for winter in Wisconsin. Any recommendations on cleaning or replacing the battery cables/clamps? If I need to replace them, is this something that I can do myself? Most local stores advertise will install a new battery for free (with purchase), but I don't know what they will say when they see the condition of the current cables


4) ***Cooling System - Empty Coolant Reservoir with Blue crystalline deposits, Brown fluid in Radiator.

While poking under the hood today, I noticed that the coolant reservoir was under the recommended fill mark. When I went to open it, it turns out that the reservoir is stained brownish at that level, and that there were only a couple of brownish drops in the reservoir along with a bluish-white powder. This was a major concern for me, even though we did not encounter any issues with a 1-hour highway drive yesterday. After doing some more reading, I opened the radiator cap, and noticed that it was full, although the liquid was brown instead of "Toyota" Red. I believe the cooling system was flushed, or at least inspected, during the 60k mile service, but that was 5 years ago. The fluids were inspected in May 2010, during the last oil change.

I guess a full coolant flush/service is in order, but are there any specifics on what to ask for when requesting service (i.e. leak testing), or how much this should cost? I hope the empty reservoir was just due to sitting/evaporation and not a leak. Also, any input regarding the blue crystals or brown fluid would be appreciated.


5) Spark Plugs and Wires

According to the receipt, these did NOT seem to have been replaced during the 60k mile service in 2005. With the coupons at Advance Auto Parts, it looks like I can pick up a set of NGK wires plus Iridium IX plugs for around $50 out the door. I used the NGK Iridium IX plugs before, and I have heard good things about them. I can probably do this myself. Is it worth it to replace these? Any pictures/guides would be appreciated (FAQ doesn't seem to have a guide for the 2.2L engine).



Once again, I apologize for the long post, and any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[Stillrunning]

You pretty much answered your own questions. Also check the condition of the transmission fluid, maybe a change should be done. All the stuff you listed you can do yourself. The engine doesn't care if it's dirty, so if it bothers you then clean it, but the dirt could show an oil leak. As for rust just wire brush what you can get to and spray connectors/bolts with PB Blaster. Did the 60k service include the timing belt?

[hill8570]

You've got a good list there -- in addition to stillrunning's suggestion of checking the tranny fluid, I'd also check and/or change the PS fluid and brake fluid. A lot depends on what was done at the 60K service -- do you have a list of the items that were supposedly done? Was it done at a Toyota dealership?

[BMR]

Originally Posted by Jawadali

1) Oil Change and General Inspection

Obviously, the first thing on the list is an oil change. I will most likely head to the dealer for this one, and will probably pay more for an "upgraded" one with more detailed inspection, unless you guys say otherwise.

You'll pay a high price. Probably the highest. And yeah, a dealership will find a bunch of stuff they recommend doing. Problem is, a lot of 'em will recommend unnecessary repairs. Example: I had just replaced front brakes once, and they told me I needed brakes done. Not saying all dealerships are like that, but some are. And some of the chain shops are like that too, like Firestone and Goodyear shops; had similar experiences at those places.

3) Battery and Battery Cables

The clamps on the battery cables are rusted pretty well, and there is heavy sediment buildup on the terminals. Although the car starts fine, I am thinking to replace the battery anyway in anticipation for winter in Wisconsin. Any recommendations on cleaning or replacing the battery cables/clamps? If I need to replace them, is this something that I can do myself? Most local stores advertise will install a new battery for free (with purchase), but I don't know what they will say when they see the condition of the current cables

Do you know how old the battery is? They usually have some "knock-out" dots on the top indicating when it was installed, but a lot of people don't bother to use them. Me?... I wouldn't replace it unless it's giving some sign of needing it. As for the corrosion, it should be cleaned off. Disconnect the cables and scrub them with a mixture of baking soda and water. It'll foam and froth and make a mess, so wear some eye protection and heavy rubber gloves when doing it. When done, rinse the entire area with a garden hose to get all that nasty corrosive stuff out of there. If you're not up for that, most shops will clean it up for a minimal fee.

5) Spark Plugs and Wires

According to the receipt, these did NOT seem to have been replaced during the 60k mile service in 2005. With the coupons at Advance Auto Parts, it looks like I can pick up a set of NGK wires plus Iridium IX plugs for around $50 out the door. I used the NGK Iridium IX plugs before, and I have heard good things about them. I can probably do this myself. Is it worth it to replace these? Any pictures/guides would be appreciated (FAQ doesn't seem to have a guide for the 2.2L engine).

At 71k miles, replacing plugs and wires is a bit early. I think 100k is the recommended interval, if I'm not mistaken. So I'd say wait on that.

[mail2_jb]

I bought a battery from costco for $59 (3yrs replacement, 100 months warranty).
My cables were a little bit corroded. I tried to replace the battery post connector, none of the autoozone, advancedauto store post connectors fit with the stock toyota connector.
Either the protuding bolt is too big or the flat surface is too big. This is only on the +ve terminal post though. -ve terminal post was perfect and was able to switch the post connector. I finally cleaned with a sand paper and used the old connector. It appears that you need to get that little sucker from dealership. I didn't know that they +ve and -ve post connectors are two different sizes (i tried a total of 6 pairs from both stores including brass, painted, marine and just the normal post connector.) You can get the C clamp type connector and they are too loose on the battery post, so had to return that one too. WTF!

Originally Posted by Jawadali

Hi Everyone,
3) Battery and Battery Cables

The clamps on the battery cables are rusted pretty well, and there is heavy sediment buildup on the terminals. Although the car starts fine, I am thinking to replace the battery anyway in anticipation for winter in Wisconsin. Any recommendations on cleaning or replacing the battery cables/clamps? If I need to replace them, is this something that I can do myself? Most local stores advertise will install a new battery for free (with purchase), but I don't know what they will say when they see the condition of the current cables

[Jawadali]

Wow, thanks for all of the quick feedback, guys.

Thanks for the advice regarding the fluids. I will make sure to have them checked.

The 60,000 mile service was done at a Toyota dealer. It included a timing belt replacement, transmission flush, fuel system flush/service, some general inspections, and a brake was replaced. I will post the the full details soon, as I don't have the paperwork in front of me right now. For the timing belt replacement, the related parts (i.e. belts/tensioner) are listed as being checked, but not replaced.


Thanks for the tips regarding the battery and terminals. I will give baking soda a shot. I will also check to see if I can find the date code, although much of the top labeling is worn off. It is a DieHard Silver Edition, so I don't think its original. I will probably go to Autozone tomorrow to have it tested for free, and see what they say.


Regarding the spark plugs, it looks like 60k miles is when they should be replaced, as I think the OEM plugs are platinum. I have not checked whether to see if they are the original ones, but I'd bet they are.


Any idea whether the empty coolant reservoir can lead to major issues if driven around for the next few days? Also, has anyone seen bluish-white deposits in there before?


Thanks,

Jawadali

[96ToyoCam164K]

Sorry to be the messenger of doom...but in my experience the last 2 cars I've bought that sat out for months at a time always ended up with a/c problems. This one worked for 1 week after I got it off the lot. Then it exploded.

But other than that nothing major. Probably good to un-hook the thermostat pipe and drain coolant or even simpler just wash the coolant resevoir. Take it to a car wash and spray it down with low pressure spray and it'll come sparkling clean.

of course...take it out before you do it.

[hill8570]

Originally Posted by Jawadali

Any idea whether the empty coolant reservoir can lead to major issues if driven around for the next few days? Also, has anyone seen bluish-white deposits in there before?

Never seen any deposits like that. While it shouldn't hurt to run around with an empty reservoir, personally I'd pop it off the car, rinse out the crap, and at least put some distilled water in there.

[Jawadali]

Thanks for the input, guys. I will look at washing out the reservoir. Hopefully, a mechanic friend will be able to take a quick look at the car today too (when I told him about buying the car a few days ago, the A/C and coolant were the first things he mentioned as well)

Originally Posted by 96ToyoCam164K

Sorry to be the messenger of doom...but in my experience the last 2 cars I've bought that sat out for months at a time always ended up with a/c problems. This one worked for 1 week after I got it off the lot. Then it exploded.

But other than that nothing major. Probably good to un-hook the thermostat pipe and drain coolant or even simpler just wash the coolant resevoir. Take it to a car wash and spray it down with low pressure spray and it'll come sparkling clean.

of course...take it out before you do it.

What happened to your A/C unit that "Exploded"? That sounds quite bad.

The A/C currently seems to work well, but I will definitely keep it in mind. I am more concerned about proper engine cooling than personal comfort, as I am not a big A/C user as it is.

[Jawadali]

My friend wasn't able to come today, but should hopefully be able to come by on Sunday. Aside from the coolant job, he suggested that the transmission fluid be examined too (especially if its dark).


Coolant - I stopped by a smaller auto parts store today to check out degreasers, and I recognized the attendant from school. He recommended a shop for the coolant flush, so I will get in touch with them to get a quote. I will also get in touch with the dealership just to compare. Since the coolant has been sitting for a long time, I'd like to have it professionally done at least this time, and may consider DIY down the road. I will be sure to inquire about replacing the hoses, using a flush cleaner, and using OEM "Toyota Red" coolant when I get the quotes.

I will probably detach, clean out, and re-mount the coolant reservoir before sending it in anyway.


Thanks once again,

Jawadali

[96ToyoCam164K]

Originally Posted by Jawadali

What happened to your A/C unit that "Exploded"? That sounds quite bad.
.

The evaporator literally went poof and for about 30 seconds clouds of White refrigerant was blowing out of the vents.

When a car sits for a long time with A/C off the refrigerant starts to eat thru the evaporator. Not the other parts though, just the evaporator. Weird.

But I wouldn't let that stop you from buying it.

[Jawadali]

Originally Posted by 96ToyoCam164K

The evaporator literally went poof and for about 30 seconds clouds of White refrigerant was blowing out of the vents.

When a car sits for a long time with A/C off the refrigerant starts to eat thru the evaporator. Not the other parts though, just the evaporator. Weird.

But I wouldn't let that stop you from buying it.

Thanks for the info. I have already purchased the car, so there's not much I can do besides preventative maintenance.

I may ask to have the A/C system checked when I am getting the coolant service done.

Would replacing the evaporator prevent such a "poof" (and is it costly to do so)? Is there any way to check the condition of the evaporator?

EDIT: The evaporator looks like a ~$150 part ($80 on eBay), and these are for aftermarket ones. It'd be really good if there was a way to check its condition to determine if a replacement is absolutely necessary.

Thanks,

Jawadali

[96ToyoCam164K]

Originally Posted by Jawadali

Would replacing the evaporator prevent such a "poof" (and is it costly to do so)? Is there any way to check the condition of the evaporator?

EDIT: The evaporator looks like a ~$150 part ($80 on eBay), and these are for aftermarket ones. It'd be really good if there was a way to check its condition to determine if a replacement is absolutely necessary.

Thanks,

Jawadali

Don't replace it unless it's leaking. And when it leaks you'll know because it won't hold a single ounce of freon.

It's a very expensive and complicated process. The 1st time I had to wait at a shop from 830 am to 8 pm at night. The 2nd time I dropped it off and didn't get my car back for 3 days. I was out over $350.

You can't really check it without tearing things apart. I don't know why they put the evaporator in such a stupid place to begin with. I'd just leave it as is...maybe yours isn't in as bad shape as mine was.

For future reference if you ever need to change it...don't go cheap. That's why I ended up having to replace mine 2 years later.

[JohnGD]

Sounds like you are taking all the right steps.

Originally Posted by Jawadali

1) Oil Change and General Inspection
I will most likely head to the dealer for this one, and will probably pay more for an "upgraded" one with more detailed inspection

I think that's a good idea. Even the basic oil change should allow the common items to be inspected - if they actually do it.

3) Battery and Battery Cables
I am thinking to replace the battery anyway in anticipation for winter in Wisconsin. Any recommendations on cleaning or replacing the battery cables/clamps? If I need to replace them, is this something that I can do myself?

Swap out the battery. I'd check out the 24F group Autozone carries (by Johnson Controls) - either the premium 8-year gold top or the second tier 7-year prorated warranty red top. No Valucrafts.

Depending on the extent of the corrosion I'd get new clamps, but would prefer new OEM cables from the dealer. Check with ToyotaPartsMan here for discounted prices.

4) ***Cooling System - Empty Coolant Reservoir with Blue crystalline deposits, Brown fluid in Radiator.

Don't know the bluish powder, it's usually pink/white powder on Toyotas. Brown probably means the engine block is rusting from the lack of coolant changes. So it's a good call on using a (non-caustic, aluminum safe) flush chemical, followed by Toyota Red and distilled water.

I'd change out the radiator hoses/coolant hoses, thermostat, and radiator cap too. And keep an eye on the radiator.

If the coolant is in this shape, I'd keep an eye on the water pump. It's probably going soon. As long as the radiator is full and when the engine is warm you see a higher level in the reservoir you should be fine as far as coolant level goes.

I really don't think many of the shop "inspections" do any good.

I'd check the coolant voltage. Select a digital multimeter's mVDC setting. Place the Positive probe to the negative battery cable or to chassis ground. Place the Negative probe into the coolant in the radiator, without touching the sides. What's your mV reading? Not over 300 mV I hope.

5) Spark Plugs and Wires

I can pick up a set of NGK wires plus Iridium IX plugs for around $50 out the door.

I'd pull the existing plugs and double check. If they're pristine then it's 50K more miles. However, if they look worn, then NGK all the way.

Yes, NGK wires and NGK Iridium-IX are great parts. No need to use twin-ground plug platinum plugs. Torque them to 13 lb/ft with a small dab of spark plug antiseize 3 threads away from the tip. Harbor Freight often has torque wrenches on sale if you don't already own them.

I'd also check valve cover gasket for leaks. Definitely retorque the spark plug tube nuts that hold the cover (they like to loosen). Change out the PCV valve and grommet. Flush the brake fluid, I'd use Valvoline Synthetic or Castrol GT LMA (both are Low Moisture Activity fluids).

I'd drop the transmission pan to change out the strainer and wipe clean the pan. Make sure to change the differential fluid too.

When needed, IAC cleaning is best done with the valve disassembled:
5sfe IAC Removal (lots of pictures)

[96ToyoCam164K]

^^^

That sounds like a lot of work! Too much work

I believe honestly you should just drive the car and let things appear when they come.

Most of the issues you mentioned I been thru and my car sat in the lot (which was actually an auction lot) forever. For so long that water spots etched into the paint. My valve cover gaskets didn't go out until a few thousand miles, battery held up for 2 years, hoses never changed.

Most important: oil change and new tires and you're good to go. And clean that coolant reservoir and drain transmission.

Remember too...sometimes you go out your way to change everything but then something else breaks. Like the time I took my car to Toyota for a checkup. They had a list of 5 things but never mentioned the distributer cap that broke the very next day!

If it's not broke...don't fix it LOL