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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 07-01-2011, 01:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tdc

96 2.2 L camry

aligned v notch in crankshaft with 0 on timing cover

aligned the hole in camshaft pulley with the correct notch behind pully using mirror

installed belt

checked to make sure it was still at TDc

However, i did not rotate the cranskshaft 2 revolutions to make sure

Installed timing covers, alternator

should i take covers back off to turn crankshaft two revolutions?
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Unless she's running badly, I wouldn't.

Do you have a timing light? At this point, unless you're horribly off, just checking / setting timing would be more than sufficient. Or you could just check the "butt dyno" -- if it feels like it's running OK, then let it slide.
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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oil leak

could a bad intake gasket be the cause of an oil leak on a 2.2
does the timing belt have to come off to replace intake gasket. i know its at the back just replcaced timing belt, and on the verge of pulling distributor for o ring, thinking it might be suitable to replace intake gasket while i am there, ..there were 5 or 6 different puddles on the ground, i know the big one in the back will probably remain
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Intake gasket? You mean the throttle body? No, that's not an oil leaker.

On the 2.2L, as far as leakers go, on the driver's side of the car, you've got the dizzy o-ring and the valve cover gasket (although the valve cover gasket usually leaks more towards the back). Front passenger side you've got the oil cooler gaskets, but they rarely leak. Underneath middle you've got the rear main seal (between the tranny and the engine), the oil pan, and occasionally the oil drain plug itself. Under the timing belt cover (passenger side), you've got the camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, oil pump shaft seal, and the oil-pump o-ring.

Of course, oil crawls down and backwards (towards the passenger compartment), so it's always interesting pinpointing a leak. Spending some quality time degreasing the engine (at least 3 cans of degreaser, sometimes more) so you can see new oil better makes tracing a whole lot easier.

The usual suspects are the valve cover gasket, the seals / o-ring under the timing cover, and the dizzy o-ring. All of the others are much less likely to leak, but it certainly happens.
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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replaced
cam, oil pump, and crank oil seals
oil pump oring
valve cover gasket
pcv valve
pcv valve grommet
drain plug gasket

distributor o ring is next

you seem to know what you are talking about, so i have to know that the only other leakage spots are the rear main, rear crank, oil pan, and oil pump gasket?
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Old 07-01-2011, 03:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmauldin View Post
replaced
cam, oil pump, and crank oil seals
oil pump oring
valve cover gasket
pcv valve
pcv valve grommet
drain plug gasket

distributor o ring is next

you seem to know what you are talking about, so i have to know that the only other leakage spots are the rear main, rear crank, oil pan, and oil pump gasket?
rear main is the same thing as the rear crank. Nasty one to get to. You also have the two o-rings for the oil cooler (the oil filter is mounted on the cooler, so it's pretty easy to see if you've got oil coming from there).

I don't think I've ever heard of the oil pump gasket (the big one behind the oil pump housing itself, not the o-ring) leaking. It's more of a hard gasket like the main water pump gasket, so you don't get it hardening up over time.

Oil pan isn't an actual gasket -- it's FIPG / RTV / silicone. FIPG doesn't harden up like the rubber seals and o-rings, so it doesn't tend to leak out very often.

There may be some other spots (like, I heard someone once say they had oil leaking out of their oil pressure sensor), but they're real uncommon. Sometimes you get to be the lucky one, 'tho.
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Old 07-01-2011, 03:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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BTW, when you change out that distributor o-ring, when you pull out the dizzy you'll think there isn't even an o-ring there -- there'll be thing that feels like a hard plastic washer around the distributor shaft (stock is usually reddish). That's what's left of the original o-ring. You'll have to cut it off in pieces.
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Old 07-01-2011, 05:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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its recommended to rotate the motor two revolutions to set the belt onto the pulleys correctly. if it runs good though, i wouldnt worry about it.... unless the belt is hanging off the pulley or something
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Old 07-04-2011, 04:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hill8570 View Post
I don't think I've ever heard of the oil pump gasket (the big one behind the oil pump housing itself, not the o-ring) leaking. It's more of a hard gasket like the main water pump gasket, so you don't get it hardening up over time.
I think it is a common problem, I believe...My 93 5sfe leaks 2 quarts a day (I drive 100 miles a day) and I've been putting off fixing it because of the hassle of pulling everything apart to remove the oil pump.

edit: nevermind, I re-read your post. lol...But yeah, 2 quarts a day...fun.

Last edited by CBZED101; 07-04-2011 at 04:45 AM.
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Old 07-04-2011, 07:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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two quarts, huh.. this one was leaking 3 to 4 quarts i feel for you if it is as oily job


guess what it still leaks on the drivers side drips from between transaxle and motor and there are two other small spots closer to firewall while car is running

guessin rear main leaking.
also checked the motor mounts since car steering wheel vibrates at adile when goin in reverse or drive, and vibrates at 60 mph, seems all four of those are bad
and the clunking noise when turning right at, going up or down hill, hitting small bumps guess lower cv boot
it was not taken car of
at least u can fix yours faster

Last edited by tmauldin; 07-04-2011 at 07:46 PM.
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