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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 07-02-2011, 12:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Strange overheating problem

I have an unusual problem with my old work car, and I can't figure it out. It's a 94 LE with 257k. The temp gauge is saying its overheating, but when I stop, nothing sounds, looks or smells abnormal. I've changed the radiator and thermostat. The upper radiator hose gets hot and pressurized, but the lower one doesn't. I'm thinking that makes it a circulation issue, not the head gasket, which I originally thought. There's no smoke from tailpipe, and it runs perfectly, from startup til shutdown. I'm about to just take it to the dealer for a diagnosis, bit thought I'd check here first. This car is kinda my red headed step child. It gets no love, never has, and yet I still feel like I need to take care of her like she has me. Only thing I can think of now is water pump. Any other ideas?
Help?

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Old 07-02-2011, 12:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Radiator cap?
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02whiteLE View Post
The temp gauge is saying its overheating
How much "overheating"? Where is the needle on the gauge? If you turn on the heater does the temp drop?

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The upper radiator hose gets hot and pressurized, but the lower one doesn't.
If the rad is cooling properly the lower rad hose will be cooler than the upper. Pressure should be the same throughout the system.

Are you loosing coolant?

You can check for flow by removing the rad cap and idling the engine until the thermostat opens, then observe the flow in the rad (don't look directly into the rad, wear goggles, coolant will overflow when hot), or you can remove the thermostat and observe flow when the engine is cold.

Are you sure you don't have air in the system?
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The temp gauge pegs itself at the top. Turning on the heater doesn't change the temp gauge.
Its not losing coolant at all.
I don't know how I could have gotten air in the system, but I suppose anything is possible.
Upper hose should be hotter, yes. In this case, the lower one isn't just cooler. Its like its not getting any flow at all.

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Old 07-02-2011, 08:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Defective new thermostat? Was situation exactly the same before new thermostat?

Maybe you'll have to test flow. I'd remove stat and see if it flows and still gets "pegged" hot.
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thermostat in backwards? I have heard it matters with some. Internal water passageway plugged with gunk?
Maybe try something like this----
Amazon Amazon
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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bad coolant temp gauge sender?
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I blew up an engine on my Nissan 200 SX by not trusting the coolant guage. $1500 later i decided i had better believe what they say...i would buy, beg or borrow another coolant gauge, an aftermarket one, (they are about $20 - 30) and temporarily install it to double check the temperature reading.

As you know the lower hose is supposed to get hot too. I'd double check for a blown head gasket (hopefully you don't have that but if it keeps running hot that's what might happen).
Pull the plugs and check for evidence of coolant; take off the radiator cap and idle the engine at least til the thermostat opens and smell for exhaust gas coming out the radiator. Also examine the water that drips out the tailpipe in the morning when the engine is cold...is it 100% clear (i.e. normal condensation blow out only?) or is there a hint of green (or red) in it?
Is there coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant? Your oil level is not going UP?

There are 3 major things that could cause this, 1 - the possible head gasket problem,

2- an awful lot of crud and scale in the cooling passages of the engine and any hoses you haven't changed in a few years, perhaps caused by a previous owner dumping in a cooling system sealer chemical, or perhaps just corrosion.

3-the timing belt tensioner is loose or the timing belt has stretched and is slipping over the water pump pulley, causing it to turn too slowly

4-water pump has bad bearings (but when this happens usually it tells you so, in no uncertain terms by squealing) or broken blades on water pump impeller.

5-thermostat bad, wrong type, or maybe it is the kind that has the tiny hole, that has to be lined up with the other hole in the thermostat mounting area?

Last edited by AlmightyCamry777; 07-02-2011 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 07-02-2011, 10:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlmightyCamry777 View Post
I blew up an engine on my Nissan 200 SX by not trusting the coolant guage. $1500 later i decided i had better believe what they say...i would buy, beg or borrow another coolant gauge, an aftermarket one, (they are about $20 - 30) and temporarily install it to double check the temperature reading.

As you know the lower hose is supposed to get hot too. I'd double check for a blown head gasket (hopefully you don't have that but if it keeps running hot that's what might happen).
Pull the plugs and check for evidence of coolant; take off the radiator cap and idle the engine at least til the thermostat opens and smell for exhaust gas coming out the radiator. Also examine the water that drips out the tailpipe in the morning when the engine is cold...is it 100% clear (i.e. normal condensation blow out only?) or is there a hint of green (or red) in it?
Is there coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant? Your oil level is not going UP?

There are 3 major things that could cause this, 1 - the possible head gasket problem,

2- an awful lot of crud and scale in the cooling passages of the engine and any hoses you haven't changed in a few years, perhaps caused by a previous owner dumping in a cooling system sealer chemical, or perhaps just corrosion.

3-the timing belt tensioner is loose or the timing belt has stretched and is slipping over the water pump pulley, causing it to turn too slowly

4-water pump has bad bearings (but when this happens usually it tells you so, in no uncertain terms by squealing) or broken blades on water pump impeller.

5-thermostat bad, wrong type, or maybe it is the kind that has the tiny hole, that has to be lined up with the other hole in the thermostat mounting area?
I just decided to take it to the Toyota dealer to have them diagnose it. They won't fix it, but at least they'll hopefully be able to tell me what's wrong with it for sure. That's worth $45 to me. If it does turn out to be the head gasket, (which again, I really don't think it is) is it a relatively simple job, or is it comparable to the blown headgasket on my old northstar STS that basically outweighed the value of the car, and caused me to junk it a couple of years ago at the ripe old age of 10 years and 70k miles.
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Old 07-02-2011, 10:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You junked a Caddy with 70k miles? Wow, I think I would have tried to change the headgasket.
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You junked a Caddy with 70k miles? Wow, I think I would have tried to change the headgasket.
You'd think. For fun sometime, google the whole headgasket on northstars thing. Basically, you have to remove the car from the engine, rather than the engine from the car. Even then, at the time, the bolts were still poorly threaded and too short, so you'd be looking at about a $3500 repair that would last between 30-70k miles. Many, many Northstars got junked because of it. It's really kinda sad, because when they run right, they're amazing.
Now there's some company in Canada that came up with a new design, and will repair them for $1500 if you get the car to them, and with a 0% failure rate. if it'd been around then, i'd still have that car.
And by junked, I mean parted the hell out of, then junked.
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Old 07-02-2011, 12:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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This is very similar to what I am reporting in this thread:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh....php?p=3602325


I found that the lower hose was not getting hot and letting the warmer water through because the thermostat was not opening. And when the lower hose stayed cool, the temp sensor that causes the fans to come on did not sense warm, so the fans stayed off. When I took out the NEW thermostat, coolant would flow (don't know if there was any pumping). and it didn't get overheated for 2 miles. I did not test longer, lest I get too far from home in 114-degree heat. tested both t-stats, old (6 mos) and new - both function.

So left with water pump, but not 100% convinced that's the only problem.
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Old 07-02-2011, 02:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 02whiteLE View Post
You'd think. For fun sometime, google the whole headgasket on northstars thing. Basically, you have to remove the car from the engine, rather than the engine from the car. Even then, at the time, the bolts were still poorly threaded and too short, so you'd be looking at about a $3500 repair that would last between 30-70k miles. Many, many Northstars got junked because of it. It's really kinda sad, because when they run right, they're amazing.
Now there's some company in Canada that came up with a new design, and will repair them for $1500 if you get the car to them, and with a 0% failure rate. if it'd been around then, i'd still have that car.
And by junked, I mean parted the hell out of, then junked.

Wow, that sucks I knew their had to be a catch with Cadillac and all. I test drove one before I bought this Camry and man what a nice car. I really wanted it but I am too practical, couldn't afford to feed it as my primary work car (30 - 40k a year)
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Old 07-02-2011, 03:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Wow, that sucks I knew their had to be a catch with Cadillac and all. I test drove one before I bought this Camry and man what a nice car. I really wanted it but I am too practical, couldn't afford to feed it as my primary work car (30 - 40k a year)
I have to agree. As far as luxury, a Lexus can't touch a Cadillac. Reliability and resale, absolutely. But smooth, comfortable power... i understand why my grandpa drove nothing but cadillacs. lol.
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So the Toyota dealer called. After telling me twice that my car is one of the cleanest he's ever seen, and that even his tech commented on it, they broke the news. My thoughts and suspicions were right. It's getting flow, but not fully. It's either the water pump or the pipe leading to the water pump. Once it's warmed up, and shut down, it's flowing backwards, causing it to kinda gurgle. Anyway, i'm just going to have them do the water pump, seals, and timing belt. They recommended that I get a new Toyota tstat, but I declined for now. Should I just go ahead and get one, even if I put it on myself? I'm just happy that i'm getting the timing belt and water pump for under $400 with Toyota parts. I do need to find a mechanic here in NC, though. Anyone here from the Charlotte area that can recommend one? i've only been living here for 2 weeks.
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