3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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The problem looks like it might be located within the RH window control switch.
Sometimes, moisture, humidity, or dust will cause a malfunction. Remove the wire connections from the RH window control switch. Use an electrical contact cleaner spray to remove any dirt or grease that might be causing the problem. Work the switch buttons a few times as you spray the cleaner.
Reconnect the wires to the switch terminals and see if that does the job .... or not.
If that doesn't work, you will probably have to get some sort of voltmeter and try to determine which point in the wiring circuit has a conduction problem.
I would get a can of actual contact cleaner .... Fry's or RS maybe.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
So on the passenger side, if the switch is not connected at all, even the master switch won't move the window down?
Oh okay. Maybe this is my fault when I was putting my mirror back on if this is the case. I did check it once, and it worked then, but since then nothing.
I forgot to say my driver's door works fine, and I'm sure my back two work (can't test due to just getting tints)
Its the wires in the door grommet. Willing to bet that a bunch of them are frayed and your window one was the first to completely get cut. I know when I opened up my driver door last summer, 6/7 wires frayed, the last one completely cut.
Yep, that's the grommet. It's extremely gay to work on. Hate it. But there's where all the wires are frayed. Because after so many years the grommet isn't as flexible anymore and rubs against all the wires and cuts them eventually.
You'll have to replace the wires, or solder them back together and tape it up nice and neat. I replaced all of them lol
Ooooh so it's just a loose connect between wires then?
But what is the grommet? No idea what that is lol.
Is that the piece that's between the door and body of the car, when you open and close? Somewhat flexible?
Yup. The wire bundle runs thru a corrugated rubber tube. I'd say check the driver's door; the bundle coming from the master switch. Because that door gets opened/closed the most, by far. I've had to go into that harness twice to repair broken wires. The tricky part is that the wire often isn't completely severed. Just the copper broken inside the insulation, which is intact. Makes it hard to figure out which wire is busted.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
It's been a while, don't remember. I do remember the rubber tube fit in the hole in the door *very* tightly, so having the inner door panel off is pretty much required to get it squeezed back in. Gotta pull it in from the inside of the door.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
So on the passenger side, if the switch is not connected at all, even the master switch won't move the window down?
That's what the wiring diagram indicates ... the motor activating current goes through the RH front door operating switch to get to the window motor. If that switch has a fault of some sort, or is not connected, the window motor won't work .... either from the RH front door or the master switch on the LH front door.
However, the idea about the RH front door grommet also sounds plausible.
If the rear RH door window had a problem, the primary cause would more likely be the RH front door grommet location, but maybe that's what it is anyway.
The WD shows that at the door operating switch, the blue wire is always 12V, the red wire has 12V only for down operation, and the green wire has 12V only for up operation. The green with white stripe wire, and the red with blue stripe wire, both have to have continuity back to the power window master switch.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
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