3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I am trying to change my timing belt, and I am attempting to remove the crank shaft pully, but when when I turn the nut to loosen it, the pully rotates. I tried putting the car in gear and in reverse. What do I do? I have a 1994 Camry, with a 4 cylinder 2200 engine and manual transmission.
Just use the starter blip method. All you need is, take a breaker bar put the 17MM socket and wedge that bar on the ground and blip the swtich for 3-5 sec and your bolt will come loose. I just changed my TB yesterday and it came loose with just one blip. If you are still not clear, here is a link
Use the bump starter method -- socket attached to big breaker bar, breaker bar end against ground or 2x4, with the end of the bar angled torwards the front of the car, then give the ignition a quick (fraction of a second) "blip". Might take a couple of blips to get it to knock loose.
And I suggest just click the starter, not hold it for 3-5 seconds, and make sure you pull the EFI fuse so the engine doesn't start.
When I did my TB change, the spark plugs were out (so didn't have to remove EF1 fuse). Correct, don't hold it for 3-5 sec. what I meant was just blip it and total time for blip should be less than 3-5 sec.
Guys, thank you for all your replies! What if the timing mark on the pulley slips off 0 when I do that? Don't I need to line the timing mark on the pulley on 0? Karen
Guys, thank you for all your replies! What if the timing mark on the pulley slips off 0 when I do that? Don't I need to line the timing mark on the pulley on 0? Karen
There's a key (protrusion) on the crankshaft that matches a slot on the crank pully -- there's only one way that pully can fit on the crankshaft.
BTW, if you havent looked at them yet, take a look at the DIYs at
If you're just changing the TB, that DIY is overkill. OTOH, unless you just like working on cars, changing out the water pump and oil seals while you're in there will most likely save you time in the long run.
Last edited by hill8570; 07-11-2011 at 05:43 PM.
Reason: Added DIY links
Here is what I did. I DIDN'T align the mark on crank pulley to the 0 on lower cover BEFORE removing the bolt using the blip method. AFTER I blipped the switch and removed the crank bolt, I used my hand to rotate the crank pulley to line up the 0 and mark (or you can put the bolt back on, don't tighten it down and use it to rotate with the 17mm socket and a wrench. Once aligned, remove the bolt carefully without changing the alignment). You are asking this about aligning the 0 and mark on pulley, right? I got confused by hill8570's reply
Guys, thank you for all your replies! What if the timing mark on the pulley slips off 0 when I do that? Don't I need to line the timing mark on the pulley on 0? Karen
Simple investment in $20 Haynes manual would give you all your answers. Better also think how you're going to tighten the crank bolt to proper torque when doing reassembly.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Here is what I did. I DIDN'T align the mark on crank pulley to the 0 on lower cover BEFORE removing the bolt using the blip method. AFTER I blipped the switch and removed the crank bolt, I used my hand to rotate the crank pulley to line up the 0 and mark (or you can put the bolt back on, don't tighten it down and use it to rotate with the 17mm socket and a wrench. Once aligned, remove the bolt carefully without changing the alignment). You are asking this about aligning the 0 and mark on pulley, right? I got confused by hill8570's reply
I see I completely misinterpreted the original question...no wonder you got confused. You method works (to turn without having the crank bolt in, you need the spark plugs out, otherwise it really takes a ratchet to turn the crankshaft).
OTOH, unless the original belt has broken, the whole "align pully to TDC, etc" thing isn't really necessary until you're checking the new installation. Just use some white-out to mark original belt and pully at the crank and cam before removing the old belt, and then use those match marks to mark the new belt, and align the match marks on the new belt with the marks on the pully when installing. See the DIYs I posted earlier for a bit better explanation.
Simple investment in $20 Haynes manual would give you all your answers. Better also think how you're going to tighten the crank bolt to proper torque when doing reassembly.
KarensCamry has a manual tranny - should be trivial to just put it in gear before torqueing the crank bolt.
Hi guys! Thank you again for your posts. When I removed the top cover to the timing belt, I found that the timing belt is still in place, but it has a lot of slack. The cam gear alignment hole is pointing to about 1:00 PM with the crank shaft pulley alligned dead center on 0. Do anyone think it is possible that the belt slipped?
The reason I thought it was the timing belt in the first place is that I was driving my car, and I heard the sound of something pop (non metalic sound), and then my car died. This happened to me before, and it was the timing belt. That is why I assumed it was the belt again. The belt was shredded the first time, and I had a mechanic fix it, but I can't afford to have it fixed again, and that is why I am doing it. My dad taught me a lot about how to fix cars, and that is why I can do this.
If it did slip, do I just losen the tensioner and rotate the cam to the corrrect position? I assume I have to remove the valve cover to line it up?
Hi guys! Thank you again for your posts. When I removed the top cover to the timing belt, I found that the timing belt is still in place, but it has a lot of slack. The cam gear alignment hole is pointing to about 1:00 PM with the crank shaft pulley alligned dead center on 0. Do anyone think it is possible that the belt slipped?
The reason I thought it was the timing belt in the first place is that I was driving my car, and I heard the sound of something pop (non metalic sound), and then my car died. This happened to me before, and it was the timing belt. That is why I assumed it was the belt again. The belt was shredded the first time, and I had a mechanic fix it, but I can't afford to have it fixed again, and that is why I am doing it. My dad taught me a lot about how to fix cars, and that is why I can do this.
If it did slip, do I just losen the tensioner and rotate the cam to the corrrect position? I assume I have to remove the valve cover to line it up?
1 o'clock is quite a bit off -- proper is a lot closer to 11 o'clock.
You can try just moving the cam gear and retensioning (inspect the belt really closely, 'tho -- shouldn't have missing teeth on this new of a belt, but it beats opening things up again). I'd also make sure the water pump and idlers turn easily, 'too -- I gotta wonder why the belt got so loose to begin with. If the belt just loosened due to the tensioner idler coming loose (why? shouldn't happen), then should be OK. If the belt is actually stretched, then your timing is still going to be iffy (it'll run, but kind of crappy), and you really should just put on a new belt -- it's not like they cost all that much.
You don't have to pull the valve cover to line up the cam gear -- there's a little arrow-shaped mark on the camshaft mount that you line up the circular hole on the cam gear with. See the DIY I referenced earlier -- pictures are a lot better than words for describing this.
Thank you so much for your reply. Is it okay for me to move the cam to the correct position? It won't damage the valves? Thank you. The old belt isn't new. It has about 40 thousand miles on it. It seems okay, but there is some oil in the space where the belt it.
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