adjusting idle speed - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

jnb0111 · 07-12-2011, 09:33 PM

So my '94 Camry has the oil light coming on once it's warmed up, and at idle, ie traffic lights. I know that there's nothing that I can really do to prevent my engine from being done, but I'd like to make it last as long as I can, while I decide whether or not to replace it or junk it. I like the car, so if I can fix it cheaply, that'd probably be the route I'd go.
Since the light only comes on at like 1,100 rpm and below, I want to adjust my idle speed to be a little higher than that, so it doesn't happen anymore. Will that actually help? I don't know, but if it keeps the light off, then it works for me.
I don't see a way to speed it up, though on the throttle cable. Sorry if this is a noob question, but it is what it is.

Frodo65 · 07-13-2011, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jnb0111

So my '94 Camry has the oil light coming on once it's warmed up, and at idle, ie traffic lights. I know that there's nothing that I can really do to prevent my engine from being done, but I'd like to make it last as long as I can, while I decide whether or not to replace it or junk it. I like the car, so if I can fix it cheaply, that'd probably be the route I'd go.
Since the light only comes on at like 1,100 rpm and below, I want to adjust my idle speed to be a little higher than that, so it doesn't happen anymore. Will that actually help? I don't know, but if it keeps the light off, then it works for me.
I don't see a way to speed it up, though on the throttle cable. Sorry if this is a noob question, but it is what it is.

Every modern car has idle speed managed by the ECU, and with this vintage Toyota, the idle is controlled by the idle air controller that's a part of the throttle body. Short of re-programming the ECU, there is no way to boost idle speed without unpleasant side-effects. If you have the automatic, those side effects would include temp build-up in the fluid and create a danger in traffic.

Having seen your oil pressure thread, the 'best bet' would be a good used engine - correctly refreshing your current engine would take $2K+ if you have someone else do the labor. Depending on yards in your area, you may be able to find a decent-running used engine for $300 or even less. Now, given your study ambitions, this car may be the perfect opportunity for learning the 'big stuff' for engine rebuilding. Picking up a correct used engine, refreshing it as a part of your studies, and then installing it could provide you with lots of learning at relatively modest investment of $1000 or so. Doing the build with a used engine will allow you to minimize outage/downtime on the car.

jnb0111 · 07-13-2011, 09:05 AM

That's kind of what I was afraid of. I'm just worried that the engine may not make it until I get to the point in school that I'd be able to rebuild it. Until I finish, the budget is incredibly tight, so my options are to keep this one running somehow, or sell it while it's running, and hope I get a decent price. To compound things, school is a daily 110 mile commute round trip. All highway. I live 1/2 mile from the highway, and the school is 1/2 mile off the highway.

dc_98_cam · 07-13-2011, 11:54 AM

If you could get the oil pan off without too much effort, you could just replace the rod bearings .... which would help the oil pressure.

It would be advisable to replace the main bearings at the same time .... Do a search and see if anybody else has tried this. ... Also check out replacing the rear main oil seal. ... Excessive main crank bearing oil gaps could be the primary cause of the low oil pressure.

Probably not a permanent repair, but it might buy you a few more miles before the engine freezes up due to deficient lubrication.

Also, make sure that the oil pump pick-up is clear of any debris. Maybe this would be the time to replace the oil pump.

JustinC25 · 07-13-2011, 03:47 PM

dependant on your climate, you could also use a thicker oil to build pressure temporarally.
You could try a 10w40, 15w40, or Worst case senario 20w50.

Again this is a temporary band aid.

Also, how does your oil pressure switch look.
They tend to go bad in our cars, and are cheap to replace.

ghettosled · 07-13-2011, 08:59 PM

even though i never recommend not fixing the root problem, the idle speed can be adjusted and raised. where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body, at the bottom of that rotating bracket there is an adjustment screw. it butts up against a diaphram thing that increases the engine idle when the AC compressor kicks on. loosen the nut and tighten the screw to raise the rpms. but again, this doesnt solve the root problem.

jnb0111 · 07-14-2011, 06:21 PM

Thanks for the replies. i've put a quart of lucas oil in the car today, and, well, it's still running. It raised the pressure, so the oil light is off for the moment, at least.
I realize this is the million $ question, and the answer is one that can't be known, but i'll ask anyway. I figure someone has at least an educated guess based on experience...
If I elect to buy a used engine, and use it as a learning experience for school, but keep on driving the Camry as it is now, what sort of longevity can I expect? I mean, I could upload a video of the engine running to get more idea. Basically, I'm close, but not REALLY close to 300k on the original engine and transmission. All along, 300k has been my goal mileage. With this issue, is it even a possibility, or am I looking at maybe only 300 more miles total... I guess I just want to weigh my options right now with my current situation. I drive long distances daily. I have someone who offered to trade me, totally even trade, my Camry for his 2003 Ford Explorer. obviously, gas mileage will suffer, but it's also got 100,000 less miles, and is 9 years newer. i'm honestly considering the trade. However, if you think there's a chance, even a small one, that the Camry could last a while still, then the obvious choice is no deal. I just don't know if this is sentimental attachment to the car or what.

carsrus · 07-14-2011, 06:33 PM

With the thick oil and lucas it should last a while. No one knows how long, period. In all honesty that trade seems to be almost to good to be true. At that mileage I wouldent be suprised if it needsa tranny and someone is trying to sell it off.

Run thick oil 15w40 or 20w50 with lucas. Ive seen cars last a while like this. If it doesnt get below 32 degrees where your at keep the thick mix of oil in there year round.

At 300k its just not economically logical to replace the engine. Part it out if the bodies ok.

jnb0111 · 07-14-2011, 07:03 PM

You Tube

Here's a link to the video of the engine I posted. Sorry if the quality sucks, I used my Evo. The Explorer is one that I used to own, but just recently sold. Engine and transmission are both good, or they were. The kid i sold it to just can't afford to put gas in it, being 16 years old and all. It's got a salvage title, which is why the value is so low, but I'm the one that wrecked it to get the salvage title, and I drove it afterwards, so i'm not worried about that aspect. I just REALLY love this old Camry.

carsrus · 07-14-2011, 08:32 PM

The engine doesnt sound bad. If thats the case and he hasnt been beating on it etc then go for it. The camry with almost 300k is worth maybe 1k. The exploder with 200k is worth more.

You can easily buy another camry with less miles for 2-2.5k. Easily.

jnb0111 · 07-14-2011, 08:58 PM

Well, I only sold him the explorer 2 weeks ago, and he has been in Florida for a week of that two weeks, without the explorer, so I don't think he has beaten on it enough to make a huge difference, even if he had. I'm gonna sleep on it then. I guess worst case scenario, I trade him, resell the Explorer, and like you said, buy a newer, lower mileage Camry, this time with a 5 speed.

Frodo65 · 07-14-2011, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jnb0111

Thanks for the replies. i've put a quart of lucas oil in the car today, and, well, it's still running. It raised the pressure, so the oil light is off for the moment, at least.
I realize this is the million $ question, and the answer is one that can't be known, but i'll ask anyway. I figure someone has at least an educated guess based on experience...
If I elect to buy a used engine, and use it as a learning experience for school, but keep on driving the Camry as it is now, what sort of longevity can I expect? I mean, I could upload a video of the engine running to get more idea. Basically, I'm close, but not REALLY close to 300k on the original engine and transmission. All along, 300k has been my goal mileage. With this issue, is it even a possibility, or am I looking at maybe only 300 more miles total... I guess I just want to weigh my options right now with my current situation. I drive long distances daily. I have someone who offered to trade me, totally even trade, my Camry for his 2003 Ford Explorer. obviously, gas mileage will suffer, but it's also got 100,000 less miles, and is 9 years newer. i'm honestly considering the trade. However, if you think there's a chance, even a small one, that the Camry could last a while still, then the obvious choice is no deal. I just don't know if this is sentimental attachment to the car or what.

If you're driving those sort of crazy miles, an Explorer will be a very fuelish choice - like mid teens, if you're lucky. Another factor is that a 200K mile Explorer is more likely used up than a 300K mile Camry. The Ford tranny is a weak point, and the 4l isn't the most durable engine out there. Now, if those weak points have been replaced, it may be interesting if you can arrange a car-pool - but for solo driving it'll drink your wallet dry.

As to the durability of your current engine - the life could be anywhere from 1 mile to 100K miles, with oil pump failure a notable risk, resulting in catastrophic (ventilated engine block) failure. Around here, some of the 'u-pull-it' yards have 'sales' where you can get a whole running drive-train and ECU for a few hundred $$$. Keep an eye out for that and maybe you can catch a lucky break.

ghettosled · 07-14-2011, 09:47 PM

maybe im wrong, but the ticking sounds like its from the top end. im wondering if you pop off the valve cover if you will be able to see anything out of place. a sticking valve or lifter, broken spring, really worn cam lobe? something that might be fairly easy to repair and fix before catastrophic failure.