DIY:Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 07-12-2011, 09:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY:Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement

Disclaimer: Use this guide at your own risk! TN and I assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide.

1.Engage the Parking Brake and block the rear wheels. Jack up the car and set it on Jack Stands.
2.Remove the front wheels.
3.Remove the cotter pins on the outer tie rods.
4.Loosen the outer tie rod about 3 threads.

5.Hit the steering knuckle under the outer tie rod until it pops out.
6.Count the threads on the inner tie rods. I wrote the amount of threads on the outer tie rods in sharpie.

7.Loosen the jab nut from the outer tie rod.
8.Remove the outer tie rod and jab nut.

9.Remove the clamps from the rack boot. The larger one needs to be broken. I used a long screwdriver and hammered the little clip until it broke.

10.Remove the boot.
11.Bend the lock tab out on the inner tie rod.
12.Loosen and remove the inner tie rods, I didn't have to use the special tool. They are not tight, an adjustable wrench and channel lock pliers worked fine. For the V6, on the driver's side I had to remove the air intake, on the passenger side the power steering pump had to removed and moved out of the way.

(Originals were trashed)
13.Install the new inner tie rods, I didn't install lock tabs, it was impossible for me to bend them so I bought red strength thread locker and put alot on the threads. Then tighten with an adjustable wrench.
14.Reinstall the rack boots, I used a worm gear clamp for the larger clamp, much easier to work with, install the smaller clamp too.
15.Install the jab nuts, make sure the amount of threads is the same number you wrote down.
16.Install the outer tie rods and try to get the wheels as straight as possible with the steering wheel.
17.Install the nut and cotter pin on the outer tie rods.
18.For the V6 install the air intake, ps pump and belt.
19.Torque the wheels to specs.
20.Go for a test drive and enjoy the new tight steering and no clunking.
21.Don't forget to get an alignment.
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Last edited by pmesfun; 07-12-2011 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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nice, steps sound clear, but more pics would help a lot

so what was the problem with installing the lock tabs on new inner tie rods?
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenixus View Post
nice, steps sound clear, but more pics would help a lot

so what was the problem with installing the lock tabs on new inner tie rods?
I did this awhile ago, so I can't get more pictures. After you take off the rack boots the rest is self explanatory.

For the lock tabs, I couldn't get enough room to bend all of the tabs so I just put red loctite, its been half a year with no issues. I guess you could bend the tabs on oem tie rods because they only have 2 flats versus the 4 on the Deezas I installed.
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice DIY

I tried to replace the inner tie rod on my Grandmother's 02' Camry. Very similar but there was no flat spot on the inner tie rod to use a wrench. I wish Toyota kept the old design instead requires a special tool.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey guys,

Just re-newed the steering gear dust boot and I'm in the process of assembling it together. Problem is, the outer tie rod end stud keeps spinning when i try to tighten the castellated nut. I tried lightly tapping the tapered end further in, but now it just pops back out of the taper and the stud starts to spin.

Any help or ideas?
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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replace it.
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Did a quick google search and it's normal for it to spin. I gave it a bit more persuasion with the hammer and the taper locked it in place.
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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is this the correct part?

i ran the p/n and it came back at like 30$ which seems too cheap to the the right part for the whole rod and stuff in the dust boot

45047 END SUB-ASSY, TIE ROD, LH
45046-09020 1 $64.04

Replaced by: 45046-29255

38.90$

going by toyotapartszone.com

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Old 10-21-2012, 09:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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jam nut size

what size wrench is needed for the jam nut?
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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not sure, i ordered a moog inner tie rod from rockauto, should be here sometime later this week, if u don't figure it out by then ill let u know. p/s what part of fl u in?
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I think it's a 14 mm. Just go try and find out!
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Jam nut

Need the jam nut size for the outer tie rod........from orlando
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I think it's a 14 mm. Just go try and find out!
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yeah, 14mm IIRC.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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success, i had ordered inner tie rod from rock auto but it won't be here till friday, when i loosened the castle nut i noticed grease under the rubber boot on the tie rod end, i went to advance and got a moog inner tie rod as well as the tool (which helped me so i could torque it to spec. i went and got the moog tie rod end and well it was shot too

original inner tie rod and lock washer that i had to deface to bend the taps back LOL









i need to get an alignment today since my steering wheel sits facing 9 o clock when going straight and pulls hard right if i try and straighten the wheel :P
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Last edited by adalex; 10-24-2012 at 01:07 PM.
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