3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
you can check the gap with the coin style gauge from parts store., but as said those double electrode plugs should not need re-gapping ever ... unless someone dropped them ... or they are worn already and gap is wrong because electrode is shorter.
if you are using Iridium-IX plugs though (single electrode) then those should be checked before install I think.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
The Following User Says Thank You to fenixus For This Useful Post:
so regap to what toyota recommends on single electrode but dont touch the plugs with more than 1 electrode ?
i also heard that people with boost has to regap them smaller. is that true ? how much smaller than recommended should i regap with boost if its true ?
I just installed some Iridium's and did not gap them, as the box said not too. The electrode is far too fine and will be easily damaged. Also, I think they come pre-gapped.
Can't say I've ever used plugs that said " not to regap", but I would at least check the gap to make sure it was withing spec. if they are dropped during shipping or something, the gap could be off.
And yes, when running boost above stock, you should use a smaller gap as the environment inside the combustion chamber is " wetter " due to the extra fuel, to maintain the proper A/F ratio because there is more air from the extra boost pressure.
Shorter arc , less chance of it going out.
For many applications the gap is already pre-adjusted at the factory. However, if the engine requires a different gap, then it should be adjusted. I did hear that the fine iridium electrode can get damaged by careless gapping and read in many places "do not gap". And I do double check the gap before installation.
Q: Do I need to set the "gap" when installing a new set of plugs? A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the NGK factory will set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.
Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".
I have something like the $5 KDS165 tool that includes gauge wires and an adjuster. You move the ground electrode with it. However the KDS165 is for smaller gaps, but I can't find the one for larger gaps.
Maybe the $1.99 KDS2327 will work but it doesn't have that many wires for precise adjustments.
(And maybe I should have adjusted the 75K mile NGK iridiums that's only slightly out of spec instead of taking them to the recycling center with other used parts? ) But seriously the ceramic can age too and leak/crack. So I think the Iridium-IX are excellent plugs for the price.
Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".
got a quick question. how do you guys clean the spark plugs if let's say you find them dirty (e.g. from running rich) after half the time they are supposed to serve?
just asking, because so far I never even bothered checking on dealer installed plugs on my V6 and they have like 30k miles and 3 years on them. I figured that maybe some day I should at least remove them for inspection ... but then what do I do if I find them dirty (engine used to run rich in past when AFR sensors were not working). buy new ones or clean them off with something?
I figure it would be also a good time to check the gap
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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