What fuse powers the windows, radio, clock, and fan - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Fortified Souls · 07-17-2011, 04:50 PM

Back again

I was working on the car doing some replacement of some sensors when it looked like it was about to rain. So I connected the battery back and when i turned the key to the start position I heard no fans, and the windows wouldn't roll up. The alternator was disconnected on the first attempt because I figured since I wasn't starting the car the battery would be enough to roll up the windows. Connected the alternator back without putting the belt on and I still have the same problem. Any suggestions the car is a 2000 camry 5sfe.

***fenixus*** · 07-17-2011, 05:21 PM

check the fusebox behind the coin drawer. it should have all you need except for radiator fans (if that's what you mean), those and relays for them are under hood in fuse/relay box by the battery.

other than that you could have unplugged some wiring harness connector somewhere maybe or unbolted or left loose some wiring harness ground bolts?

Fortified Souls · 07-17-2011, 05:39 PM

I guess everything is out lol no lights or anything it lets you know the door is open with the beeping noise and that's about it :/

***fenixus*** · 07-17-2011, 06:11 PM

which sensors have you been touching? have you unbolted any harness clips and moved harness aside, disconnected something else to get working space, etc.?

you may need to check ALL fuses in above mentioned spots. something major could have blew out or disconnected when you unplugged the alternator, especially if you removed the positive and grounded it.

Fortified Souls · 07-17-2011, 07:31 PM

I was messing with the crankshaft and camshaft sensor i disconnected those and the alternator. Ive went through all the fuses and have found nothing blown nor do i smell a burnt smell anywhere. I just took the alternator to be tested and it was good. Hope the ecu didn't go

Fortified Souls · 07-17-2011, 08:23 PM

bump i have put everything back together it starts but it wont go into gear along with the problems i had before everything was together.

dc_98_cam · 07-17-2011, 08:54 PM

To get the gear selector to move, you have to have the ECU-IG fuse, the STOP fuse, and the CIG fuse. These should all be in the fuse box behind the coin box ... just left of the steering column. Also it looks like the alternator and battery have to be hooked up.
Everything good here?

... Also you have to depress the brake pedal, with ignition to ON.

dc_98_cam · 07-17-2011, 09:14 PM

New idea ...
There is a fuse box in the engine compartment ... on the driver side (left) ... designated Engine Room Junction Box no. 2.
It looks like it is the only big fuse box on the driver side .... maybe halfway between the strut tower and the front of the car.
There are several wire harnesses that appear to plug into this box ... looks like they just snap in .... maybe from underneath.
Can you check these harness connectors to see if any are loose ... not firmly snapped in ...
might be one or two on the side ... just try to see that everything is making a good electrical connection .... and not falling out or loose.

Fortified Souls · 07-17-2011, 10:09 PM

Bump with video all fuses are in there respective places. The video is dark and I apologize but I think you'll get the jist of it.

You Tube

Fortified Souls · 07-17-2011, 10:09 PM

delete

dc_98_cam · 07-17-2011, 11:57 PM

Do you have a voltmeter or a test light?
A test light is just a 12V bulb with a socket and two or three feet of wire.
... Need you to see if there is voltage at a splice point in the engine compartment .... Maybe there is a fusible link that has blown.
Easy to check out ....
Will try to post a picture or description tomorrow ...

***fenixus*** · 07-17-2011, 11:59 PM

let me know if you need electrical schematics, it can help in troubleshooting. seems like you will have to start checking disabled circuits for continuity...

Fortified Souls · 07-18-2011, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fenixus

let me know if you need electrical schematics, it can help in troubleshooting. seems like you will have to start checking disabled circuits for continuity...

Id like the electrical schematics

and looks like I'll be going to get a voltmeter today also I don't think we have one. Thx for all the help fenixus and dc_98_cam. I'll update once I start checking stuff.

dc_98_cam · 07-18-2011, 10:12 AM

It looks like you will have to pull the engine room J/B no. 2 to get to any wires/links that are causing the problem.

From what I can tell from the FSM wiring diagram, the most likely part to fix things is a fusible link labeled F9, located under the J/B no. 2 box. There should be two black with red stripe wires going to it. The diagram says that it is an orange colored connector.

Be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal before you do anything with the fuse box.

Interested to see if you have power to the STOP fuse .... fuse box next to coin tray .... passenger compartment. There should be power on one of the two terminals, with the STOP fuse removed.

fenixus says that you might have to remove the trim panel from inside the wheel well to get to a clip on the underside of the fuse box ...

***fenixus*** · 07-18-2011, 10:58 AM

sent the PM to OP.

that main fuse box is a bitch to remove. basiacally you would need to unbolt and peel off the fender liner under it to get access to a few clips over there (one for box and a few for wiring harnesses that also keep it altogether tight), you will also have to totally remove the battery and plastic tray underneath. possible that you will also have to unbolt the plastic runner with some wires under it going straight and tight to fuse box.

it's all very time consuming, just to have the box loosened up enough and unclipped to see what's under it ... take your time, don't rush thing out as you will break clips.