97 Camry 2.2L low idle with A/C on

[leeneedshelp]

My car idle's fine @800 or so in Park and in Drive and when A/C is engaged the RPM's drop to around 500 or so with the car in drive at a stop light.

I've cleaned and TB and IAC, and no check engine light on. Would I be correct in assuming that the EGR VSV might need replaced. Does the VSV increase the RPM's with the A/C on?

I've looked on this board and the VSV seems to be the likely candidate.

I can't thank this board enough in doing basic maintenance and DIY with my car. 187K happy miles and hope to see 250K or even more.

[fenixus]

it actually could be also your IAC valve still and/or its motor not doing a good job.

check out this DIY too:
DIY removal & cleaning of IAC

measure the resistance between IAC terminals, it may give you a quick answer.

[Stillrunning]

Look for faulty separate idle-up valve that switches when A/C is engaged.

[fenixus]

^ I don't think the gen4 even have that AC separate idle up valve anymore ...

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by fenixus

^ I don't think the gen4 even have that AC separate idle up valve anymore ...

Yea, I didn't do any research but since mine and others have one thought maybe the 97 might. It could be controlled by A/C module signal to ECU to IAC.

[fenixus]

yeah, I suppose the job of that gen3 idle up valve is done on gen4 through IAC (ECU controlled). not 100% sure though.

[carsrus]

There is a idle up valve on the gen 4. Check to see if it has movement when the ac clutch kicks in.

[fenixus]

damn it ... where is it on gen4 5s-fe? I have never come across it yet ...

just received the new IAC valve from Gary - Toyota of Newnan, GA (thanks for ultra fast shipping man!! ), this one has ... different (much lower) ... resistances on terminals, than the one mounted on wife's car, ... but I generally think my multimeter went to shit or something ... for some reason I cannot get the per book readings from it ...

EDIT:
multimeter is good, just tested it on 4 different resistors like 230 ohm, 330 ohm, 470 ohm, 560 ohm and 2.2K ohm and all readings were correct (within tolerance) ... WTH?

is there some trick to testing resistance on IAC valve terminals?

[Pvt-Public]

On the Gen4 the idle up for AC is controlled by the ECU.The factory manual AC troubleshooting guide says to check ECU and associated wiring.

[hill8570]

Originally Posted by carsrus

There is a idle up valve on the gen 4. Check to see if it has movement when the ac clutch kicks in.

Really? AFAIK, the ECM just uses the IAC to do idle-up when it engages the mag clutch on the A/C compressor. Sure like to see a diagram showing an A/C idle-up valve on a Gen 4.

[fenixus]

exactly my thoughts. I've never yet come across such valve (separate for AC) on gen4!
The only valve doing similar job is the IAC and only this one as far as I know is controlled by ECU...

to carsrus and pvt-public:
I don't believe there is another valve anywhere. post the diagrams if you know where it is or how to find it.

Originally Posted by hill8570

Really? AFAIK, the ECM just uses the IAC to do idle-up when it engages the mag clutch on the A/C compressor. Sure like to see a diagram showing an A/C idle-up valve on a Gen 4.

[Pvt-Public]

As i said there is no idle up valve. The idle is raised using the IAC being signaled by the ECU. The FSM even says to check the ECU and wiring if the idle does not raise with the AC turned on

[fenixus]

^ right, you said. my reply was more pointed towards carsrus being wrong, but somehow I put your nick in there too hehe.

wiring is ECU was checked long ago and so far all points back to IAC not working correctly (probably dirty all along and getting worse over time). cleaning it from top via the opening in TB stopped helping it long time ago too.

I will be replacing IAC soon to see if idle finally gets better.

[leeneedshelp]

I copied this from another thread and was wondering if this would help or is it more for initial warm-up of the engine.

I have tested Ohms and everything is in spec. 21.3 when cool

Used 9 volt battery and IAC closed and opened.

Might have to go to local dealer and have ECM checked out. Car doesn't die but 450-500RPM's is a bit too low for me with A/C on.



[QUOTE=N/A Camry Sleeper;3406518]IT'S FIXED!!!!

Turns out that it IS adjustable as I had suspected by loosening the two small screws and doing some experimenting. First pic is where I started from...looks like it is close to midway between stops:




I first tried to turn it counterclockwise to its full CCW travel so it looked like this:



When I did this idle speed jumped to 2000 RPM and surged between about 1600 and 2000RPM with the computer (I guess) trying to compensate for too fast an idle. So I turned it the opposite way to full clockwise travel, and idle went to 750 RPM on the dot!

If you do the "remove-coolant-lines-to-IAC" mod then you will likely need to turn this adjustment plate FULLY CLOCKWISE for normal idle in colder weather - like so (I just inverted the picture here guys):



HOWEVER, I have no idea how it will idle in the summer months We shall have to wait and see

[jsroller]

I was having the same problem as you before i figured it out, i checked all the electrical componets switched them out the idle valve cleaned the throttle body, but come to find out the it was not getting enough fuel when the A/c was on, i replaced the fuel filter and it fixed it when is the last time you changed i would try that before i go any further.