P1300 P1310 Camry 97 EM

[sharinganuser]

My wife's Camry (1997, 2.2L, 4 cylinder, automatic) has P1300 and P1310 error code. We changed the spark plugs, spark plug wire set, ignition coil 1 & 2. There are misfires on cylinder 1 and 3.

From what I've read below are the possible causes:
- Faulty ignition system
- Open or short in IGF or IGT circuit
- Faulty ignitor
- Faulty ignition coil
- Faulty ECM

How to check for "Open or short in IGF or IGT circuit"? My mechanic scanned the car and it shows either coil or ECM is malfunction. Should I buy a used or new ECM? or the problem is something else?

Thanks!

[sharinganuser]

I replaced the ECM (used), but still the issue is there. Car is still jerking (rpm goes down) and it still stops. Both times the engine light is on.

Does anyone know what are other possible causes? Thanks!

[hill8570]

Anyone have a '97 FSM handy? I vaguely remember the '97 5S-FE having a waste spark ignition, which would have 1 and 3 sharing the same coil...

[dc_98_cam]

From the Diagnostic Section of the FSM:
HINT:
Ignition coil No.1 is for cylinder No.1 and No.4, and ignition coil No.2 is for cylinder No.2 and No.3.

Since codes 1300 and 1310 are being displayed, there is something wrong that is common to both Ignitor no. 1 and Ignitor no. 2.

I would take a close look at the white wire with a red stripe coming from each Ignitor coil, which enters a splice point right behind the glove box .... in the passenger cabin. ... From the splice point the W/R wire goes to the ECM.

This purpose of this wire ... the IGF signal... is to give the ECM a confirmation that the high voltage spark pulse has been completed.
Without the confirmation IGF pulse .... the 1300 and 1310 codes will be displayed ...

Since both codes are displayed, I would pay particular attention to the splice point behind the glove box .... any loose wire ... corrosion ....
Can you follow the W/R wire from the splice point to the ECM?

There is some useful information in the diagnostic section of the FSM ....
See section DI-163 .... using the older version that was once available online.
P.57 of the 99EWD wiring diagram will show you the two Ignitors and what is common to the two.

[sharinganuser]

I checked the wire from ignition coil to the ECM. The wires near the ECM seems to be ok, but the wires from the ignition coil (1 & 4 cylinder) has exposed bare wires. It seems the oil that was leaking before got into the wires and melted black/red and red/white wires. The exposed wire is small like 2-4mm. I just cleaned both wires with alcohol and put some contact cleaner/conditioner. After I covered the exposed wires with electrical tape. Wires from ignition coil (2 & 3 cylinder) seems to be ok. So far day 1 there was no issues. I'll check for a week if I still get the same problem.

The ECM I got is for CA and the car my wife bought was for FED. That is why I got different sets of errors after installing the new (used) ECM. Replaced back the original ECM and so far it is still working ok. Did not encounter jerking and car stopping after the taping of the wires.

Thank you so much dc_98_cam

I'll give updates if I get an error or after a week with no errors.

[dc_98_cam]

Great that you found the problem ....

There is a product called shrink tube or something like that .... if you can get one end of a wire loose ... It acts like an additional layer of wire insulation. You don't even usually have to heat it up ... If it's inside the engine space, it will shrink by itself.

Another product is called 'slit loom'. .... NAPA carries it. It just slides over wires or wire bundles .... and protects from abrasion, heat, or whatever.

[sharinganuser]

I bought the slit loom. Thanks again dc_98_cam! So far the car has no issues... my wife is so happy

[sharinganuser]

It has been a week since wrapping the wires, so far we encountered no problems. Thank you so much hill8570 and dc_98_cam!!! You guys are a lifesaver

[Ryan187]

I'm bringin' this back from the dead. I've been having a similar problem, my car dies out after about 20 minutes of driving, starts back up, and immediately stalls. It'll start and run for another 20 minutes several hours later. I've replaced my EGR, plugs, wires, coils etc. Car still has the issue, terrifying to drive. It also throws just code P1300. I checked my white/red wire as everyone suggested, and it seemed to be in good condition, and i'm going to wrap it back up better than before so no wire is exposed.

Anyone have any ideas?