camry occasionnaly miss at WOT crank sensor problem?

[lemegacool]

well i have a little annoying problem...

a couple of months ago i was going to work and my camry stalled at a stop... it took a good 10 seconds of cranking for it to start... i then scanned the cels and it threw a crank position sensor code. the car ran fine afterward... recently while i was leaving work i was doing a WOT pull when suddently the car felt like the engine was shutting off and it returned to normal (that almost feels like moderate braking since i was in second gear and WOT) this ''jerk'' only lasted half a second! again i got the crank position sensor code

so i ordered a new crank sensor from yota and installed it. since i changed the sensor i have yet to have a code but it still miss very randomly at WOT. sometimes i can do really long pulls with no problem and sometimes it cuts out at like 5500 rpm and resume.. without trowing any codes. could it be the wiring to the sensor that could cause this?

i cant say it does it in a speific condition... its really random and it happens like once in a week...

[bronzemaxell]

my 94 camry v6 le , japan built, stalled during driving today, before the engine stalled, the car jerk a few time first, i saw the rpm dropped from 2500 to 1500, then bounce back, when i step on the gas pedal, the engine rpm barely increase, then a few second later, the rpm was 0 while the vehicle speed was around 15 to 25mph, i quickly shifted into N, and crank the engine, it started right back, but the check engine remained on, then i shifted it back to D, and drove a couple hundred ft, it happen again, then i repeated the process 3 or 4 times, then it didn't stall anymore, but i can feel the engine was under power.

didn't have a chance to see what the code is, but i have this situation happen to me before, 13 years ago, and once last year.

i always suspect toyota engineers didn't fully test the 1st generation 1mz-fe engine, or maybe just mine has a bug in ecu.

[projektvertx]

Interesting. I've NEVER had this happen!

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

didn't have a chance to see what the code is, but i have this situation happen to me before, 13 years ago, and once last year.

i always suspect toyota engineers didn't fully test the 1st generation 1mz-fe engine, or maybe just mine has a bug in ecu.

If anything, I'd say they played wayyy to safe But that's another discussion for another thread!

[mazdaverx7]

never experienced this in my 92 SE.. i would start with the basics. first check the plugs and ensure they are not worn beyond spec. also check the wires' resistance value while you're at it. i'd then replace the fuel filter, remove and clean the throttle body. after that if the issue still persists, check for proper fuel pressure and you may want to consider sending the injectors out to be cleaned and flow tested.

my next question is that since you have a 5spd swap, are the ecu's different between the 5spd and auto and would the trans computer if still in place, interfere with the engine's running at WOT with a manual trans ecu?

[lemegacool]

@ bronzemaxell

cant say about the jerking but the under power you are experiencing might be the knock sensor being oversensitive... seems to be quite a problem on the 1'st gen 1mz

@ mazdaverx7

your 92 have a 3vzfe v6 in it not a extremly picky first gen 1mz lol

plugs are brand new iridiums from last year, i checked them again when i relocated my knock sensors and they were still brand new looking

my 1mz dont have wires its coil on plug... i guess i could always check coil resistance again but i dont see how they would act fuzzy only once in a while and wot!

fuel filter is a an-6 high flow billet race filter and is 3 month old

throttle body is clean from half a can of seafoam

fuel pressure is 40psi at idle with no vacuum reference... i run a aeromotive fpr

mayyybe the injectors but then again i'm switching to supra injectors soon

maybe the ecu but then again why very randomly?? also i still have the auto ecu in there as there is no manual ecu i can use...

thanks for the help!

[hill8570]

Which code was thrown originally -- P0335 or P0336?

Have you checked to see if any codes are "pending"? Both P0335 and P0336 use two-trip detection logic, so a on-again, off-again signal problem (like an iffy cable) might set a "pending" code, but not light off the CEL.

I'd go over the whole cable run for the crank sensor back to the ECM and look for any possible bad wires, loose connectors, or flakey grounds.

[lemegacool]

Originally Posted by hill8570

Which code was thrown originally -- P0335 or P0336?

Have you checked to see if any codes are "pending"? Both P0335 and P0336 use two-trip detection logic, so a on-again, off-again signal problem (like an iffy cable) might set a "pending" code, but not light off the CEL.

I'd go over the whole cable run for the crank sensor back to the ECM and look for any possible bad wires, loose connectors, or flakey grounds.

it was p0335

i just checked again and no pending codes... just my usual park neutral switch malfunction lol

yeah that sounds like a total pain to do... what i'm probably end up doing is replacing all the crank sensor wires and connectors all the way to the ecu!

i will check grounds first... thanks man!

[Eye8Pussies]

clean and double-check your maf as well....


missing at WOT is not usually due to fuel either. it'll usually be ignition related, and a dirty or dying MAF def messes with your ignition. when my MAF went on me about a year ago, I had plenty of trouble starting, rough idles, missing- the whole nine- yards. but I knew that it wasn't ignition related, so I just swapped MAFs to test and all was well.

it also explained why I was having so many problems when tuning as well