94 Camry just stops running

[Mortar]

The car in question will just stop dead after about 10 minutes running. IF we let it sit for 10-15mins it will start up just fine but repeats the process.

Any ideas??

Thanks!!

[BMR]

Is the "check engine" light on? If yes, get the error codes read. It's got OBD II, so most auto parts stores will read the codes for free.

[Yuko]

Originally Posted by BMR

Is the "check engine" light on? If yes, get the error codes read. It's got OBD II, so most auto parts stores will read the codes for free.

OBDII didn't become standard until 1996. A 94' OBD system may not work with many simple scanner.

[BMR]

Yes, OBD II was required in '96, but some Toyotas were compliant earlier. I thought *all* Camrys from '94-on were OBD II compliant. Googling a bit, it looks like that's true for V6 Camrys, but 4 cylinder Camrys didn't get it until '96. My bad.

[Woodyg]

Originally Posted by Mortar

The car in question will just stop dead after about 10 minutes running. IF we let it sit for 10-15mins it will start up just fine but repeats the process.

Any ideas??

Thanks!!

1) create a detailed profile signature of your car that follows you around like a cute puppy dog on every post

2) next time you have the problem determine if you have a good spark and or good fuel pressure.........then we will know what direction to go in.

[Noblunts]

Fuel pump... distributor...IAC valve.

[Mortar]

Ok,, for some reason after messing with a few different things the car was working normal for a while. Then it started to act up again, I borrowed a scanner and was able to use a OBD II on it. We got 2 error codes. One was an O2 error the other being a ignition error. Well after fiddling with a few things again one being something I did the first time, I unhooked and hooked back up the igniter. . Is there a way to test this(its expensive)? It also gets pretty hot.

Note: The car is 6 cylinder 3.0l engine and after doing some research we discovered the car is ODB II compliant . When the car fails there's fuel being pumped, I thought there was sparks but maybe I was wrong on that. Now I just need to wait to recreate the problem to be sure..

More Edit: The codes I'm getting is P1300 which does point to the igniter.. The other being P0135

[Mike Gerber]

First most 94 and newer V6 Camrys were already OBD2 compliant. The 4 cylinders were not until the 1996 model year.

Second, I would first check the coil for being in spec. The coils are more likely to cause problems when they heat up then the ignitor. You can check the coil for being in spec with the specs from any manual and a digital volt/ohmeter. Also inspect the coil carefully for cracks. They have a tendency to develope hairline cracks and short themselves to ground on any nearby metal.

Mike

[Mortar]

It has a coil for each plug..

[dc_98_cam]

The P1300 code includes the igniter, but also could be the wires going between the igniter and the ECM. The wiring diagram shows there are 7 wires ... which you might inspect for shorts, frayed insulation, or maybe rubbing against something.

The P0135 code is listed as a Bank 1 Sensor 1 problem. Diagram shows it to be on the exhaust manifold that is closest to the firewall ... at back of engine.
You could take a look and see if the wires look ok ... anything obviously wrong. ... I think some of the scan tools have a readout or listing for oxygen sensors ... not too sure about that.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by Mortar

It has a coil for each plug..

Test camshaft and crankshaft position sensor when hot (if possible).

To test function of igniter (assuming ECM is sending switching signal) disconnect the coil connections to igniter then connect an LED 12v test light + to each igniter output to each coil and the other lead to ground. Have someone crank the engine and watch for the light to blink on/off. Test all igniter outputs. You'll have to do this when the engine fails to run.

[Mortar]

Thanks all!! This will give me something to look at when it happens again.

It just seems odd that the first time when messing with it I did two things I installed a new fuel filter and unhooked and hooked back up the igniter. Then again when it happened again I looked and tested a few things and did the same thing again to the igniter and it's running again for now. Could it be there's a broken or cracked connection on the igniter that gets pushed together when I re-connect the wire harnesses and the heat affects the faulty connection?? Also the igniter get really hot you can't keep your hand on it for very long..

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by Mortar

Also the igniter get really hot you can't keep your hand on it for very long..

I would say it should not behave that way. There is no component in it that would heat from being powered. The ECM sends a 5v switching signal and the battery sends 12v power for the coil primary to solid state components. Are you sure the heat is not just from engine heat and not produced inside the igniter? You could get a can of CO2 and when it fails again spray the igniter to see if it runs and then spray the crankshaft position sensor to see if that makes it run.

[Mortar]

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

I would say it should not behave that way. There is no component in it that would heat from being powered. The ECM sends a 5v switching signal and the battery sends 12v power for the coil primary to solid state components. Are you sure the heat is not just from engine heat and not produced inside the igniter? You could get a can of CO2 and when it fails again spray the igniter to see if it runs and then spray the crankshaft position sensor to see if that makes it run.

Thanks Still!! The other sensors are something that we looked too. I don't think it could be the heat from the engine compartment because there's nothing else getting that hot in that area.. I'm going to look at that further today..

Thanks again!!!

[Mortar]

One question. Would a bad O2 sensor cause the engine to die like this??