is it possible to replace ball joints on the car?

[fenixus]

ehhh, Moog curse is haunting me still and one off Moog ball joints shows a symptom of a leaky boot now (can't load it up with grease as it spits it out on back) ... so I figured it's time to get new OEM ball joints and swap those damn Moog parts out finally...

now, I remember that the steering knuckle had to come off the car to replace ball joints, the castle nut right under drive axle was a problem, even with it off the car ...

however to avoid that painful labor and then doing the 4-wheel alignment again, I was wondering, is it possible to remove ball joints alone without touching the rest?

Part is rusted, yes, but it's been only 6 months since it was installed on the car ... all nuts should be still fairly easy to break free (90ft-lbs) ...

Thanks for opinions.

[Yuko]

How long ago was the last alignment? In theroy, as long as the new ball joint match the old, alignment should not be needed. Also, breaking loose the tie rod ends from the knuckles then reinstalling them later shouldn't affect the alignment too. Having said that, reality tells a different story: Anytime a suspension or steering part has been changed, more than likely, the new part is a hair shorter or longer and will throw the alignment off noticeably.

Also, are you able to get a refund on those Moog ball joints?

[pmesfun]

Honestly I think you can remove the ball joints without messing with other stuff. When I was looking at them, it seemed possible to fit a 19mm? open end of a combo wrench and break them loose.

[Chris Crash]

Can't hurt to try.

[71Corolla]

If you can get the castle nut loose, you can do it. If the nut is seized, you're screwed and have to remove the knuckle. I tried cutting into the castle nut and then fracturing it with a chisel, but couldn't make it work, there is so little room to work in there.

As for getting a wheel alignment if you remove the knuckle, in theory you don't need to. The ball joint and outer tie rod will bolt back into the exact position it was in before.

[JohnGD]

There is a purge hole near the threaded end of the boot. Is it coming out of there??

During greasing I pump new grease until I see new grease come out of the purge hole. It's like flushing brake fluid.

If you do want to change them, at least get warranty replacements and then sell them later. It looks doable but never tried it that way. As said maybe a combo wrench (that's a lot of torque for a combo wrench however) or a breaker bar and a crowfoot. (Did you get a set of crowfeet?)

Edit: Saw the other thread. Yeah that boot is bad.

Originally Posted by fenixus

(can't load it up with grease as it spits it out on back)

[fenixus]

Well, in last year I did the alignment 4 times LOL!
I have a free lifetime from Firestone, so cost is not a problem, only time required to get it done is a pain (3-4 hours total usually).

I can tell from past experience that there is ALWAYS slight difference (could be still in green zone on alignment machine), so it's kinda lottery if you end up with correct alignment or not after replacing anything like steering knuckle, strut or outer tie rod end...

I can only send the faulty ball joint for warranty service (exchange). no refund for me, store warranty ended long time ago I think? purchased them in AAP in March if I remember it right... or maybe I can still bring it to them for exchange? I dunno.

Originally Posted by Yuko

How long ago was the last alignment? In theroy, as long as the new ball joint match the old, alignment should not be needed. Also, breaking loose the tie rod ends from the knuckles then reinstalling them later shouldn't affect the alignment too. Having said that, reality tells a different story: Anytime a suspension or steering part has been changed, more than likely, the new part is a hair shorter or longer and will throw the alignment off noticeably.

Also, are you able to get a refund on those Moog ball joints?

Yeah, I am willing to think this might work. open end or better, a flare nut wrench on castle nut (lots of torque though) and see what happens.

they were installed like 6-7 months ago, so can't be seized yet. the rust is only on surface I hope and not between the nut and threads, will see.

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Honestly I think you can remove the ball joints without messing with other stuff. When I was looking at them, it seemed possible to fit a 19mm? open end of a combo wrench and break them loose.

I guess I will have to try and see then

Originally Posted by Chris Crash

Can't hurt to try.

OK, then, sounds like a plan. I wil get an OEM replacements (both sides) and start with passenger side. If I can loosen the castle nut on car then the rest is easy (2 more bolts on bottom and it slides out after prying on LCA).

I guess, If I don't touche the strut, knuckle no the tie rods, then alignment will not be needed.

Originally Posted by 71Corolla

If you can get the castle nut loose, you can do it. If the nut is seized, you're screwed and have to remove the knuckle. I tried cutting into the castle nut and then fracturing it with a chisel, but couldn't make it work, there is so little room to work in there.

As for getting a wheel alignment if you remove the knuckle, in theory you don't need to. The ball joint and outer tie rod will bolt back into the exact position it was in before.

well, I don't know where that purge hole is, but I loaded the other ball joint with even more grease and nothing comes out of that one.
you saw the pics, so I trust your opinion that the leaky one is bad.

I may need to get finally the crowfoot wrenches, so far was getting away with combo wrench + large hex bit + torque/ratchet wrench, who knows might work even this time too, no?
will see about that

Originally Posted by JohnGD

There is a purge hole near the threaded end of the boot. Is it coming out of there??

During greasing I pump new grease until I see new grease come out of the purge hole. It's like flushing brake fluid.

If you do want to change them, at least get warranty replacements and then sell them later. It looks doable but never tried it that way. As said maybe a combo wrench (that's a lot of torque for a combo wrench however) or a breaker bar and a crowfoot. (Did you get a set of crowfeet?)

Edit: Saw the other thread. Yeah that boot is bad.

[JohnGD]

I checked Advanced Auto and the warranty period should be on the receipt. I guess it depends on the clerk. If not one try another store or another shift. I hope you get most if not all of that $100 back.

From rockauto:

MOOG Warranty Information
Limited lifetime (except tools & Omega power steering products). Hub assemblies & steering dampers 12 months.

[fenixus]

Thanks!

surely worth a try.

will need to find the cash register receipt, hopefully I have them still... do you think they could accept the printed web order email? or I need that cash register paper? I paid less than $50 a piece, I believe that was $30 a piece actually.

Originally Posted by JohnGD

I checked Advanced Auto and the warranty period should be on the receipt. I guess it depends on the clerk. If not one try another store or another shift. I hope you get most if not all of that $100 back.

From rockauto:

MOOG Warranty Information
Limited lifetime (except tools & Omega power steering products). Hub assemblies & steering dampers 12 months.

[fenixus]

from funny things, I have just noticed that online OEM ball joint price is LOWER ($42.25) than Moog retail (was $55.99 in Feb '11) !!! LMAO!
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...330-09051.html

P.S.
Looking for those damn paper receipts as we speak ...

[JohnGD]

The web order email should work, that's what Advance says:

"This warranty is valid for the stated period of time printed on your Invoice and Order Confirmation email provided you were the original purchaser"

[fenixus]

Cool, thanks again man!

now just need to seacrh my mail box, much easier than searching for a paper receipt LOL

I'm sending a PM to Gary (TOYOPARTSMAN) asking for a quote on 2 OEM ball joints.

Originally Posted by JohnGD

The web order email should work, that's what Advance says:

"This warranty is valid for the stated period of time printed on your Invoice and Order Confirmation email provided you were the original purchaser"

[fenixus]

found the paper cash register receipts! also printed 2 web order emails.
I paid for them $38.51 each (that's after $20 off discount for each!)...

question1: do I need Moog boxes to return those joints? I don't have packaging

question2: will I need any puller for ball joint to remove it after (hopefully) unbolting everything?
I think I may need to actually remove the LCA off car to remove the ball joints without touching the knuckle?

[JohnGD]

I'm not sure if the hammer-on-the-side method works for the knuckle joint. Especially when the CV boot is next to it.
DIY - Front wheel bearing R&R

Otherwise it may require something like below without removing the knuckle. I don't see it on Autozone's free loaner list. I know O'reilly has them for rent.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

Unless you want to go through taking off the knuckle again. It's extra work, but it means you get to use all free loaner tools.

As far as the LCA goes, I guess you can unbolt and push it downward a bit. It should be reasonably out of the way.

Advance Auto should just give you new replacement joints without boxes, and they should stick the old joints in those new boxes. But since Moogs should carry lifetime warranty a refund is better. or maybe store credit toward ATF with those big discount?

[JohnGD]

So much for Moog with the corrosion problem.

Originally Posted by fenixus

I have just noticed that online OEM ball joint price is LOWER ($42.25) than Moog retail (was $55.99 in Feb '11) !!! LMAO!