transmission wont shift

[newskooler]

hey guys so ive continued to have bad luck with my gf's 1999 toyota camry with the I4 and AT. in my previous post i had a problem with the car starting and found that the crank sensor wiring was exposed and grounded out, i of course found this after buying new ignition coils,plugs and wires. luckily the coils are still in thier boxes. so after fixing that issue the car started and now runs like a champ.

here comes the new issue... the car wont shift without being rev'd up to around 4-5k rpms.n. it shifts smoothly into reverse and drive and exellerates all the way up to that point.

any ideas or links?

[hill8570]

Is this a new problem, or did it exist before the starting issue?

You sure it's having to rev that high? That's damn near redline -- it's going to be kicking you hard in the ass every time it shifts with that high of a shift point.

[Dave's]

Sounds like a shift solenoid is stuck. But this should give you a check engine light (if it's working- which you can check when starting the car..) If the book is right you can disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids near the park/neutral switch (2). Then manually shift thru the gears from 1, 2 and D. If it shifts properly then there's probably a solenoid or electrical problem. WARNING: if you do this test you will get a check engine light and will need a way to reset it.

[Woodyg]

Originally Posted by newskooler

hey guys so ive continued to have bad luck with my gf's 1999 toyota camry with the I4 and AT. in my previous post i had a problem with the car starting and found that the crank sensor wiring was exposed and grounded out, i of course found this after buying new ignition coils,plugs and wires. luckily the coils are still in thier boxes. so after fixing that issue the car started and now runs like a champ.

here comes the new issue... the car wont shift without being rev'd up to around 4-5k rpms.n. it shifts smoothly into reverse and drive and exellerates all the way up to that point.

any ideas or links?

not to be a smart ass.........but we told you it was not the coil-packs and you ordered them anyways..........did you check the fluid level......you need to check the fluid level with the car running...........get a scanner and see if you are getting any pending codes?

[camrtm3]

What is with that hate? Seriously. What does an old problem with starting and coil packs have to do with transmission issues?

Possible issues:

Shift solenoid. After a while this will throw a code. Pain in the ass to replace.

Speed Sensor failing. Well the ECU looks for throttle position and speed to shift. If its failing, well. Symptom, Speedometer would be acting up. This too will throw a code.

Eventually the ECU will get pissed at you and throw a code at you. The gen 3 and gen 4 camry is very simple ECU and there are no "hidden" code like in the new cars. If it does not like something it will tell you.

[newskooler]

Haha I know sounds dumb but I like to make sure all the bases are covered the reason I even ordered the coils os because there was corrosion in it so I figured id pick up a set while I was online just in case. I'm getting my money back so not a big deal.

I checked the solenoid and connections like you guys said and the car still won't shift. And there wasnt any codes thrown prior to disconnection of the solenoid.

and yes the fluid levels where good

I finally broke down and took it t a shop and they said the manual valve was toast. Then I hear from the gf she put it on park while it was still rolling so i'm guessing she chipped something off and it ended up damaging the valve?

anyways thanks guys and i'll post up some pictures for you tomorrow when I get it back

[camrtm3]

Your head is going to hurt man. The park pin in the trans is quite large. That thing doesn't break with out some force. Trust me I tried to break my old AUTO so my dad would help pay for my 5spd swap. That is one of the techniques I used. Rolling is an understatement. I tryed at the end 5 times with 5 mph "rolls" and the damn thing didnt break. She had to be doing an excess of 5mph.

[mazdaverx7]

so the shop said that valve body is bad? if so you should be able to remove it and inspect it for cracks or sticking valves..

[camrtm3]

Originally Posted by mazdaverx7

so the shop said that valve body is bad? if so you should be able to remove it and inspect it for cracks or sticking valves..

That is a bitch to do. Have to drain the trans. And there are about 30 10mm bolts that hold that. I took one apart to rob solenoids. ya, not fun. let them do it or get a new car. Sorry that is skinny on that.

[mazdaverx7]

if the shop does the work then great! if not, then the guy may want to drain the trans and clean and inspect the valve body. heck, it may work and he'd get a new trans filter and fluid to boot! if not he's out some time and a few bucks.

[newskooler]

haha ya screw it the shop will have it done by lunch tomorrow. the shame is it has new fluid and filter oh and the 500 dollar price tag F***. thank you guys though.

[Woodyg]

Originally Posted by newskooler

I checked the solenoid and connections like you guys said and the car still won't shift. And there wasnt any codes thrown prior to disconnection of the solenoid.

and yes the fluid levels where good

Originally Posted by newskooler

haha ya screw it the shop will have it done by lunch tomorrow. the shame is it has new fluid and filter oh and the 500 dollar price tag F***. thank you guys though.

sorry about the fluid question ........I did not know you were ASE certified......you should add that to your sig........................when you dropped the pan to check the solenoids did you see anything unusual?.......................not sure what the VB cost but on most tranny once the pan is dropped the swap is about 20 minutes................but what the heck it's only the GF money and the tranny guys have to eat too.....