3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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New to this game. And I know it may be impossible to do, but can you remove the water pump from a 98 Camry without removing the lower timing belt housing and crank pulley. If so can you tell me how its done.
New to this game. And I know it may be impossible to do, but can you remove the water pump from a 98 Camry without removing the lower timing belt housing and crank pulley. If so can you tell me how its done.
1) create a detailed signature of your car......think about it .....you did not even tell us what engine you have
2) how many miles on the car? on the TB?
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
1) create a detailed signature of your car......think about it .....you did not even tell us what engine you have
2) how many miles on the car? on the TB?
Like i said new to this. Always worked on V8's. Girl friends car 1998 camry with a 2.2L with a little over 100k. Not wanting to get into changing timing belt. I know that it would be a good idea. From what I could see of the belt with the top of the cover removed it was in good shape.
Like i said new to this. Always worked on V8's. Girl friends car 1998 camry with a 2.2L with a little over 100k. Not wanting to get into changing timing belt. I know that it would be a good idea. From what I could see of the belt with the top of the cover removed it was in good shape.
I am not trying to be abrasive just trying to help. I will posta how yo vid when I get home. Canry are one of the easiest TB's. Think of it as an opportinity. Tell your GF it is a 5 hourjob and she owes you 5 hours
I have not done a camry Tb/waterpump but I think it is no more than 3 hours
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
It's not like you can screw it up, I mean you can but even if you do it wont hurt anything. And your gonna have to take the belt off to get the water pump off anyway.
I did my timing belt and water pump before I even knew about this place. Words of advice - use the breaker bar and bump the starter method for that bolt on the end of the crank. Buy Gates timing belt.
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82 Toyota Pickup, 22r, 5spd 4wd, Detroit locker, Warn 8274
1998 Toyota Camry - 5S-FE, Auto - 205k
82 Toyota pickup - 20r, 5spd, 4wd - SOLD
It's not like you can screw it up, I mean you can but even if you do it wont hurt anything. And your gonna have to take the belt off to get the water pump off anyway.
I did my timing belt and water pump before I even knew about this place. Words of advice - use the breaker bar and bump the starter method for that bolt on the end of the crank. Buy Gates timing belt.
I had seen a video on the same procedure. My question is that this is great for getting the nut off, but how do you tighten it back up to torque specs? I would think a impact wrench.
Dunno, maybe someone else can chime in for the proper way...
But as I dont have an impact, I put it back on, put a ratchet on it, and whack the handle quiet a few times with a hammer. 35k later and no problems. Also did the same on a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe, it also has about 30k on it without problems.
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82 Toyota Pickup, 22r, 5spd 4wd, Detroit locker, Warn 8274
1998 Toyota Camry - 5S-FE, Auto - 205k
82 Toyota pickup - 20r, 5spd, 4wd - SOLD
I had seen a video on the same procedure. My question is that this is great for getting the nut off, but how do you tighten it back up to torque specs? I would think a impact wrench.
It's only 80 ft-lbs to tighten. Either build a little dingus to hold the pully while you tighten (let me know if you're interested and I'll look up the instructions) or pull the starter and wedge the flywheel gear while you tighten. Not sure how an impact is going to help with the tightening -- the pully is still going to want to turn.
i used a strap wrench around the pulley to help keep it from rotating.
first off, why are you replacing the water pump? is it starting to leak?
secondly, if you are taking the time to replace it, might as well replace the timing belt too since it needs to be removed.
i used a strap wrench around the pulley to help keep it from rotating.
first off, why are you replacing the water pump? is it starting to leak?
secondly, if you are taking the time to replace it, might as well replace the timing belt too since it needs to be removed.
First off I think I know enough to know when a water pump is bad. YES it leaking !
And secondly I don't have the time or the money to messing around with the time belt. I know it would be money well spent. But hopefully the car will be gone as soon as it is fix. If you read the all the post, I inspected the belt and it didn't show any sign of wear.
in my experience, timing belts rarely show signs of wear - they just snap. i just mentioned it because you are already doing 90% of the work, why not spend the extra 10% and $30 for a new belt. certainly having a new timing belt would be a good selling point for the vehicle too.
in my experience, timing belts rarely show signs of wear - they just snap. i just mentioned it because you are already doing 90% of the work, why not spend the extra 10% and $30 for a new belt. certainly having a new timing belt would be a good selling point for the vehicle too.
I am with you ^^^ do it right or don't do it. What is he going to say when he sells it. I put a new waterpump in it but did not spend the $18 for a new belt.
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
And secondly I don't have the time or the money to messing around with the time belt.
Actually your only reason must be the money, because there is no extra time involved. To get to the water pump you have to remove the timing belt. And you can not judge a timing belt just by looking at it. I have seen belts that look like new except where they broke or stripped the teeth off, and have seen belts that look like antique leather drive belts still working perfectly. My advice at that mileage FWIW is replace the timing belt for the extra couple bucks. You can even get a kit that includes both the water pump and the timing belt.
Last edited by Pvt-Public; 08-04-2011 at 02:40 PM.
Actually your only reason must be the money, because there is no extra time involved. To get to the water pump you have to remove the timing belt. And you can not judge a timing belt just by looking at it. I have seen belts that look like new except where they broke or stripped the teeth off, and have seen belts that look like antique leather drive belts still working perfectly. My advice at that mileage FWIW is replace the timing belt for the extra couple bucks. You can even get a kit that includes both the water pump and the timing belt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodyg
I am with you ^^^ do it right or don't do it. What is he going to say when he sells it. I put a new waterpump in it but did not spend the $18 for a new belt.
Well I don't know where you guys buy your parts. But I wouldn't put a $18 dollar belt on it if I went through the trouble to change it. And belts here cost in the range of $35 to $45. And the kit cost $150 +. And that thing about a selling point.. bah. As the original post stated something short and quick. But I guess nothing is short or quick anymore. But thanks for the input. I guess I will bite the bullet and do the whole enchilada.
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