Fixing oil leaks: camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump seals - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 08-03-2011, 05:25 PM
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Fixing oil leaks: camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump seals

I'm midway thru the process of replacing these seals in a 1994 Camry LE and want to double check a few things.

There is a lot of scoring on the oil pump shaft...is it ok to put it back, or should it be replaced in order to minimize future leaks again?




Regarding installing the new seals:

I took the camshaft bearing cap off because I was a bit paranoid of scraping a surface with the tight angle. How should these be put back together...oil the bearing/camshaft surface or do I use grease? (I'm aware of using some RTV where the bearing cap sits on the block, 14ft/lb. iirc)

How about the camshaft seal itself...oil the ID, OD, and camshaft, and no need for any grease?

Is it the same lubing procedure with crankshaft seal and oil pump seal?


So far it's been pretty smooth getting to this point. I'm trying to clean all the oil and dirt out of this timing belt area before I put it together, and degrease everything I took off. Hopefully that will help detect future leaks easier.

Btw here's what happens when you use Super Clean degreaser and don't read the directions, leaving it in an aluminum pan over night. Amazingly, it didn't bother the paint on the garage floor at all. Overall it works well, if used right that is.


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#2 Old 08-03-2011, 11:30 PM
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Are you feeling lucky? Personally, I'd replace the oil pump impeller if the shaft was that scored -- others here have had to tear things back down after rolling the dice with a scored oil pump shaft, only to have the new shaft seal leak.

As for the cam / crank seals, just a bit of oil on the out edge of the seal is plenty. Crank seal usually goes in pretty easy -- cam seal is a bit of a bear, and never seems to be seated far enough. A piece of PVC pipe or a socket of the right diameter helps.
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#3 Old 08-04-2011, 12:03 AM
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Are you feeling lucky? Personally, I'd replace the oil pump impeller if the shaft was that scored -- others here have had to tear things back down after rolling the dice with a scored oil pump shaft, only to have the new shaft seal leak.

As for the cam / crank seals, just a bit of oil on the out edge of the seal is plenty. Crank seal usually goes in pretty easy -- cam seal is a bit of a bear, and never seems to be seated far enough. A piece of PVC pipe or a socket of the right diameter helps.
Well, after getting this far, I'd prefer to rely on luck as little as possible at this point, if I can afford to atleast.

Can I buy just the impeller new and for a decent price somewhere without buying the whole pump, or would I need to go to the dealer to get one?

Regarding the cam seal, I have the bearing cap off so that should be fairly easy if I'm not mistaken, which I'm assuming I can put the cam seal in place before replacing the bearing cap.

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#4 Old 08-04-2011, 12:39 AM
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I'm not finding the impeller/rotor sold separately anywhere...only complete pumps which range anywhere from $60 to $200 on ebay...
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#5 Old 08-04-2011, 12:39 AM
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Rotor is dealer only. About 40$.

When reinstalling cam seal make sure the spring inside the seal doesn't fall out. Its a really tight fit and it likes to pop out.
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#6 Old 08-04-2011, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaxonWaxStillOn View Post
I'm not finding the impeller/rotor sold separately anywhere...only complete pumps which range anywhere from $60 to $200 on ebay...
You can try for a cross-reference: ROTOR SET, OIL PUMP 15102‑74020 . As carsrus sez, probably dealer-only, and list a bit under $40.

Still cheaper than a new fleabay Aisin oil pump...I think the last one I bought was $100+ .
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#7 Old 08-04-2011, 11:24 AM
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Rotor is dealer only. About 40$.

When reinstalling cam seal make sure the spring inside the seal doesn't fall out. Its a really tight fit and it likes to pop out.
$40 is very doable, I will give the dealer a call, thanks.

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Originally Posted by hill8570 View Post
You can try for a cross-reference: ROTOR SET, OIL PUMP 15102‑74020 . As carsrus sez, probably dealer-only, and list a bit under $40.

Still cheaper than a new fleabay Aisin oil pump...I think the last one I bought was $100+ .
Cool, thanks for the part number. Are Aisin's better than Beckley Arnly?

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#8 Old 08-04-2011, 11:28 AM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the oil seal sit above that groove? I didn't replace that part and it looked the same. So far no leaks. Please post a picture of the new part if you get one. Thanks.

Still Running 95 Camry Coupe 205K miles and counting!
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#9 Old 08-04-2011, 12:09 PM
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Are Aisin's better than Beckley Arnly?
Aisin is the Toyota OEM, so they're equivalent to the Toyota part.

Beck Arnley is just a reboxer -- sometimes the part is the Toyota part, sometimes it's from a Toyota OEM, sometimes it's something else. Usually Beck Arnley is good quality, but sometimes you lose the dice roll.
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#10 Old 08-04-2011, 12:36 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the oil seal sit above that groove? I didn't replace that part and it looked the same. So far no leaks. Please post a picture of the new part if you get one. Thanks.
The oil seal lip (the sealing surface) is what wears that groove. A new shaft doesn't have it. If you get lucky, the groove is small enough that the new seal will still work. If not, well, at least you'll know enough to be able to tear the engine back down a lot faster the second time around.

For really expensive shafts (like the crank or camshaft), there are things called sleeves (redi-sleeve or the fel-pro equivalent) that slip over the shaft to give you a clean sealing surface.
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#11 Old 08-04-2011, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hill8570 View Post
The oil seal lip (the sealing surface) is what wears that groove. A new shaft doesn't have it. If you get lucky, the groove is small enough that the new seal will still work. If not, well, at least you'll know enough to be able to tear the engine back down a lot faster the second time around.

For really expensive shafts (like the crank or camshaft), there are things called sleeves (redi-sleeve or the fel-pro equivalent) that slip over the shaft to give you a clean sealing surface.
Interesting. I found Rockauto sells an oil pump repair sleeve for toyotas '83-'04 for $24 (-5% coupon +$5 shipping). I double-checked the rotor diameter with a micrometer and it's the right fit (rotor .707" vs. sleeve @ .709") . At this price tho, I'm thinking one might as well go with a new drive rotor for $40.

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#12 Old 08-04-2011, 03:05 PM
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If i had the choice again, go with a new rotor. Hope my luck holds up and no leaks develop...

Still Running 95 Camry Coupe 205K miles and counting!
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#13 Old 08-04-2011, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by WaxonWaxStillOn View Post
Interesting. I found Rockauto sells an oil pump repair sleeve for toyotas '83-'04 for $24 (-5% coupon +$5 shipping). I double-checked the rotor diameter with a micrometer and it's the right fit (rotor .707" vs. sleeve @ .709") . At this price tho, I'm thinking one might as well go with a new drive rotor for $40
Yeah, and if yer comparing apples to apples (Rockauto vs an discount online Toyota dealer like Town&Country (east coast) or 1sttoyotaparts (west coast)) it's like $28 shipped for the sleeve vs $35 shipped for the Toyota-brand rotor set. Rotor set FTW! If we were talking a crank or camshaft, that's a horse of a different color...
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#14 Old 08-04-2011, 03:33 PM
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If i had the choice again, go with a new rotor. Hope my luck holds up and no leaks develop...
Live 'n learn...sometimes I'm much better in one than the other but which one that is tends to vary.
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